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I decided to try out swapping my 1G alternator in my 1969 F250 with a 460. I think the motor came out of an early 70s Lincoln but not 100% on that.
My understanding was that this is a direct bolt-on, but maybe I missed something.
I've got the alternator hanging there after clocking the case to get it in there, but the adjuster arm the bottom bolt goes through doesn't clear the bottom ear on the alternator. It will sit with the bottom ear in front of the adjuster, but the bolt doesn't fit through so it seems that isn't a good position for it.
Is there another type of adjuster I can use, or is there some other way to get this working?
It looks like you might have to re-work the adjuster arm. Maybe add a piece to it and or do some grinding. The last one I did, I made an adjuster arm from parts of 2 different ones.
This tensioning adjuster bracket doesn't look right to me. This should be a flat piece of metal shouldn't it?
I had a hard time finding a reference photo for the low mount style brackets in profile, but this one (though shaped slightly differently than mine) on the auction site looks flat to me.
On some applications you have to extend the adjuster arm. And most of the time you will have to space the alternator forward about 1/8" (use a washer or two)
Ok, it's in and charging at a little better than 14v.
The tensioner bracket didn't need to be extended, I just had to widen the slot that the bolt goes through to get it to fit.
The wiring was mostly non original, probably all hacked when the engine was swapped. None of the factory plugs were there but I was able to find out where the two prong and three prong plugs used to be by opening up what was left of the old harness- the wires were still stuck together in a pair, and in a threesome.
There were a pair of wires attached to the starter solenoid for a brake controller that had to come off before everything would work right.
The mega fuse holder came out of an expedition. There were some late model F150s with the same fuse. They are easy to spot- there is a pair of them on the passenger side firewall and they have heavy gauge red cable running to them.
That valve cover bolt where you have the ground cable attached is not a very good place to put have it. It's supposed be tighten down on a had surface.
Since the valve cover has a gasket under it, it can't be tighten down like it should be.
That valve cover bolt where you have the ground cable attached is not a very good place to put have it. It's supposed be tighten down on a had surface.
Since the valve cover has a gasket under it, it can't be tighten down like it should be.
Orich
Thanks man, nice catch I never thought about the gasket under there! I'll move it over to the water pump. It might be Overkill anyways, I added several grounds before doing the alt swap but I don't guess one could possibly have everything grounded too well.
Thanks man, nice catch I never thought about the gasket under there! I'll move it over to the water pump. It might be Overkill anyways, I added several grounds before doing the alt swap but I don't guess one could possibly have everything grounded too well.
Water pump has a gasket under it as well.
Best to use the block ground, or a bolt going into the head.
Best to use the block ground, or a bolt going into the head.
well, damn.
My ground right now goes from the (-) post to the block, and another to a bolt through the inner fender and from there to the alternator and the one in question on the valve cover. Overkill maybe? In my estimation more is better than less.
I figured the water pump would be a good place because of the water moving through it. But, I confess I'm pretty ignorant and still learning. I'll go ahead move it to the Head like you suggest-
Thanks guys!
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