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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
I haven't looked at the cable on our trucks, but many have a keeper of sorts where two cables join. One cable has a tee head on the end of the cable, the other is a cap that leads to an external adjustment rod.
If it's anything like that, releasing all the tension is key.
On some vehicles the cable has to have enough slack to either bend it or twist the end to remove from the retaining bracket.
Wish I had more specifics for you, maybe after a pic?
I can snap a pic and I need to snap another. I have found one of the issues that keeps our parking brakes from working. There is an 'actuator' that the cable hooks to at the wheel that is two pieces riveted together and one moves inside the other. This one is frozen solid and looks like it is not lubed from the factory. I know that lube there would attract dust and dirt so I don't know what the solution is but it is a problem.
If your talking about the keeper that holds it in the backing plate, I just used channel locks to working around it to pop it out. Before I put it back in I bent the tabs back out to be sure it locked back into place tightly.
I went through the same thing when I re-did my brake system about a year and a half ago. A lot of fun changing the e-brake shoes without removing the axle... but doable.
johnsps, they don't look too doable! I did get them out but I am going to replace the backing plates while I'm at it so I'll pull the hub too, it doesn't look all that bad outside of buying a new tool.
Pics, we got pics. Here is the actuator that sticks out the back of the plate and the cable connects to it. It's rusted fast and I'm not sure whether to use it or replace it. NAPA does not have it...
Actuator top view.
Cable mounted on frame where they split from one to two. I don't know how they're held there, maybe crimped into place?
Other side of the plate, both cables shown here.
A nice place for preventative maintenance. This cable rubs against the frame just ahead of the axle. Forward of that there is a factory sleeve to prevent this on another spot. Don't know why they didn't put one here too.
And here is a not so good picture of the end of the cable where it mounts to back of the plate. johnsps has supported my thoughts on how to do it on the others. When mounted that spring is on one side of a plate and the cable sheath is on the other. The cable itself slides through a notch in the plate. In order to get any slack there I believe that I would have to unhook that cable up top but it doesn't look like it's 'user' serviceable.
johnsps, they don't look too doable! I did get them out but I am going to replace the backing plates while I'm at it so I'll pull the hub too, it doesn't look all that bad outside of buying a new tool
Trust me, its doable! But a royal pain in the butt! Took many sailor words and was a fight to the finish!!
If your pulling the hubs I'm sure it will be simple task at that point. I wasn't planning to change the shoes until I discovered the frozen actuators so I wasn't prepared to pull the hubs, and I really didn't want deal it. In hindsight, most likely would have been easier to do so, plus I would have a new tool in my tool box.
My actuators weren't quite as rust as yours. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and Kroil, then lubed them sparingly with caliper slide grease, they have been free since.
I Kroiled the actuator overnight and worked it free today. There is a lot of tolerance in it so I guess they figured it wouldn't cease up. I have a tool I found that holds a broken hack saw blade and there was enough clearance to get that in there and work the rust out and it wiggles loose now. I'm figuring to use that expensive brake lube I bought on it when I put it back together. My shoes are so so but I figure that we're not supposed to be wearing them out so I'll put them back on.
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