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63mm (recommended for stock to 160/30 injectors)
66mm (recommended for 180/30 to 238/100 injectors)
69mm (recommended for 250/100 to 300/200)
Your response time is great! I should hire you for appliance maintenance or something...
With the 160/80 or 160/100 injectors being such a hot choice, I suspect that the 63mm or maybe the 66mm would be the optimal choice for those injectors?
Your response time is great! I should hire you for appliance maintenance or something...
With the 160/80 or 160/100 injectors being such a hot choice, I suspect that the 63mm or maybe the 66mm would be the optimal choice for those injectors?
With the 160/80 or 160/100 injectors being such a hot choice, I suspect that the 63mm or maybe the 66mm would be the optimal choice for those injectors?
I never got this Sous. You would thing the 6spd would build rpm's faster then the auto there for the 1.0 would be the all a round choice. I have the 1.0 with stock injectors and love it. Soon to be changed, but I've said this for ever. Oh I have an auto.
Have you received any word on the AR size like the KC38R is offered with a .84 for manual (6 speed) and the 1.0 for automatic trucks?
My 63 will have a .84 housing BUT the exhuast wheel is 74mm (vs stock 68mm). Charlie said "It will spool WAY faster than any 38r out there, but still flow more air than any stock injector truck would ever need."
The nice about working with KC on this is if we think it needs a 4inch intake or a 1.0 housing (for towing heavy) he will send the parts and we will test. He is determined to make these the standard drop in option.
Sous I have a 1.0 housing if you are interested and wanna give it a try.
I'm starting to like the options of the KC turbo, seems like it would be a great bolt on option, EGT's will be my main concern if these turbos show some good #'s I might consider a conversion on my OBS. Post your findings my friend I'm interested as well.
How much of a pain is it to replace the up-pipes? Trying to decide if it's worth it since I'm a little short on cash to spend on the truck after the turbo and new front brakes.
Ok, since I haven't ordered parts yet which turbo reinstall kit should I go with on riffraff? There is a turbo reinstall kit 99-03 and a turbo reinstall kit GTP38? I plan on pulling the pedestal so I can delete the ebpv components if that makes a difference
I currently have 175/0's and previously had 160/0's with T4/S366. IMHO, this is the perfect combo. I would not consider anything 'smaller' - especially with bigger nozzles.
One of of the trucks I just finished has 238/80's and T4/S369 and that truck friggin' RIPS!!! Driven conservatively, you'd never know it was a beast - but put the hammer down and tire life will suffer... (that guy called the day he got his truck and asked if there was a lower power setting for his chip - he was in lowest HP tune 'heavy tow'. Lol. )
We'll have to see what kind of feedback Charlie gets about exhaust housings. He sent me a 1.0 AR for the 369 and explained that some folks had surge issues 'in hotter tunes under some conditions' using the .84 housing. The truck I'm using it in will not even get 'hot tunes' and I'm more interested in fast spool than top end HP.
That said, there's a BIG difference in auto vs manual trans. The auto can handle a 'bigger' charger because TC slip and downshift will spool WAAAAAY faster than 6spd can. I had the same engine (160/0's and T4/S366) in my Excursion with BTS and in my dually with 6spd. The difference in SOTP's power was huge! The X would bury boost gauge at 3/4 throttle from hwy speed. The dually takes awhile to get there... It's possible the smaller AR would help the 6spd with all other things being equal.
Which reinstall kit should I order? I should just need the o rings and 2 bolts since I'm deleting the ebpv correct?
There are orings between the pedestal and the motor and then a set between the top of the pedestal and the turbo. Make sure you get both sets.
They are notorious for flattening, hardening, leaking, etc over time.
FYI. RiffRaffDiesel has pedestals without EBPV for under $100 (the Garrett brand is more expensive). But you'd have to use a fooler or something for the solenoid to avoid a code.
If you have taps and tools, no worries, but an option if you don't or not wanting to mess with it.
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