AC code injectors are a fantastic upgrade for a daily driver tow rig. That plus the equivalent of KC38R makes 320hp in my tow tune and has been making me happy for almost 300k miles now.

I just returned from from pulling this home over 600 miles and I honestly love the power it makes. This is about 23k lbs gcvw.

 

Had the 1.15 on a van turbo in my truck....smoky lagging pig. But once you got the rpm's up far enough....it was a beast.

Went to a 1.0....never happier.

 

I could see that with 6spd and/or high altitude. But, good tuning and auto - the van turbo rocks from (tuned with) stock injectors to hybrids.

 

Sky, you're killing me with that 600HP lol. I have a bone stock 7.3 in my 2000 dualie with 256K on it. Still runs great. Need to get better fuel milage tho.

 

Its fun, but really overkill...

 

Fuel mileage is part of why I'm looking at a good turbo. 13 in town usually and about 16 empty on the interstate. With the camper I think I averaged about 12 maybe closer to 11. The truck has 330000 on it and I'm guessing the injectors and turbo are still stock

 

I bought my buddies cab and chassis and put a dualie bed on it, that was a pain in the a@@, I'll post pics of it soon. I have tried everything to get better fuel milage. I average around 10 with 373 gears, that sucks.

SKY: That engine is bad to the bone. Super nice.

Need to have a like button on here just for pics.

 

Grandpa - my 2000 cclb 4x4 has 3.73 gears too, the mileage just sucks

 

900ft elevation....DP tuned at that time. Now I run some fella in Montana's tuning. Maybe he could have made it work....but I like what I have now.

 

I hear you Eagle. Thing is my buddy had diesels all his life and bought a gas job in 2015. His 6.2 gas motor only gets a few more MPG's then my 7.3. Weird.

 

The 'right' turbo will be a 'good' turbo.

With an all stock truck I'd be looking at other things to improve MPG. The biggest killers are boost and drive pressure leaks. Replace leaky, stock up-pipes with bellowed up-pipes. Do a boost leak test and make sure Everything on pressure side of turbo is air tight. Next on the list would be ICP and injector health.

DRW and 3.73's are pretty rare - especially in a cab-chassis truck! (My dually is a cab-chassis 6spd) But, don't blame the gears - they really don't make a big difference in MPG.

The biggest contributing factor to MPG is driving style and conditions. When I'm burning WVO (free fuel) it is not uncommon of me to see what max speed I can hit pulling Monteagle Pass after the sharp turn on northern ascent. Carefully observing gauges during 'the test'. But when I'm burning dead dinosaurs (and $$$$), I'm down to a crawl at the top and hypermiling as best I can at 23k lbs gross. Lol

 

Thanks for the advice Sky.



Before



After

HP oil line was leaking, notice the puddle, it's fixed, changed both of them.

 

I built a boost leak detector this evening to check for leaks, I couldn't find any leaks, the only air escaping I heard was from the dipstick. When i pulled the tester out I had air hiss out so I guess both are good signs. I couldnt see any soot on the up-pipes or firewall around them so I dont think I have any drive pressure leaks. Ive been able to get around 20 pounds of boost previous to my trip. Ill try to get a video(audio) of the stranbe sound if I hear it again.

 

Sounds like a great idea Eagle. I'll Google that and try it myself.

 

It's reall simple, thought it was more involved than it really is. Get a 3" pvc pipe cap and drill a hole for a schrader valve. Remove the air filter on your truck and clamp the cap in. Air it with LOW pressure (15-20lbs) and listen for leaks.
I also took a look at the wheel in th turbo. It looks just fine but I wasn't able to check for any play. It's gonna be a bear to get the hose off to even reach it so maybe I'll try that tonight