turbo replacement
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I'll have to check with BTS to see exactly what he was talking about. As far as I know I still have stock level injectors, unless there is someway to check by pulling valve covers. I'd like to upgrade injectors in the next year sometime but I don't know what I'm looking for in that department either. All I know is it was recommended to get single shots.
I just returned from from pulling this home over 600 miles and I honestly love the power it makes. This is about 23k lbs gcvw.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,648
Likes: 893
From: north of Minneapolis, MN
The 1.15 AR on a stock size turbo is fine. I like running the van chargers for this reason. But, even van turbo and WW2 with stock injectors is less than ideal from what I've seen. Keep stock wheel until moving up to split shots or bigger.
Mike K. has been running 1.0 housing on stock turbo (per Brian's recommendation to fix surge) and later added WW2 with 238/80 injectors for a few years now. That truck dynoed over 500hp.
Mike K. has been running 1.0 housing on stock turbo (per Brian's recommendation to fix surge) and later added WW2 with 238/80 injectors for a few years now. That truck dynoed over 500hp.
Went to a 1.0....never happier.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
I could see that with 6spd and/or high altitude. But, good tuning and auto - the van turbo rocks from (tuned with) stock injectors to hybrids.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Y-Town, Ohio
The KC38R is working very well. I think Charlie told me they have about 1800 of them in service now. I'm about to try the KC369 on a truck with 250/200's. A drop in charger for 600hp is a game changer!!
That said, you need to pick correct exhaust housing for your application. A 1.0 AR will likely be lazy and run hot with stock or mild injectors.
I'm curious why you think you need a new turbo? What injectors are you running? There is waaaaay better tuning than what you're running... I always struggled with EGT's when I ran those toons.
That said, you need to pick correct exhaust housing for your application. A 1.0 AR will likely be lazy and run hot with stock or mild injectors.
I'm curious why you think you need a new turbo? What injectors are you running? There is waaaaay better tuning than what you're running... I always struggled with EGT's when I ran those toons.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
Fuel mileage is part of why I'm looking at a good turbo. 13 in town usually and about 16 empty on the interstate. With the camper I think I averaged about 12 maybe closer to 11. The truck has 330000 on it and I'm guessing the injectors and turbo are still stock
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Y-Town, Ohio
I bought my buddies cab and chassis and put a dualie bed on it, that was a pain in the a@@, I'll post pics of it soon. I have tried everything to get better fuel milage. I average around 10 with 373 gears, that sucks.
SKY: That engine is bad to the bone. Super nice.
Need to have a like button on here just for pics.
SKY: That engine is bad to the bone. Super nice.
Need to have a like button on here just for pics.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
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From: north of Minneapolis, MN
900ft elevation....DP tuned at that time. Now I run some fella in Montana's tuning. Maybe he could have made it work....but I like what I have now.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,142
From: N.GA Mountains
The 'right' turbo will be a 'good' turbo.
With an all stock truck I'd be looking at other things to improve MPG. The biggest killers are boost and drive pressure leaks. Replace leaky, stock up-pipes with bellowed up-pipes. Do a boost leak test and make sure Everything on pressure side of turbo is air tight. Next on the list would be ICP and injector health.
DRW and 3.73's are pretty rare - especially in a cab-chassis truck! (My dually is a cab-chassis 6spd) But, don't blame the gears - they really don't make a big difference in MPG.
The biggest contributing factor to MPG is driving style and conditions. When I'm burning WVO (free fuel) it is not uncommon of me to see what max speed I can hit pulling Monteagle Pass after the sharp turn on northern ascent. Carefully observing gauges during 'the test'. But when I'm burning dead dinosaurs (and $$$$), I'm down to a crawl at the top and hypermiling as best I can at 23k lbs gross. Lol
With an all stock truck I'd be looking at other things to improve MPG. The biggest killers are boost and drive pressure leaks. Replace leaky, stock up-pipes with bellowed up-pipes. Do a boost leak test and make sure Everything on pressure side of turbo is air tight. Next on the list would be ICP and injector health.
DRW and 3.73's are pretty rare - especially in a cab-chassis truck! (My dually is a cab-chassis 6spd) But, don't blame the gears - they really don't make a big difference in MPG.
The biggest contributing factor to MPG is driving style and conditions. When I'm burning WVO (free fuel) it is not uncommon of me to see what max speed I can hit pulling Monteagle Pass after the sharp turn on northern ascent. Carefully observing gauges during 'the test'. But when I'm burning dead dinosaurs (and $$$$), I'm down to a crawl at the top and hypermiling as best I can at 23k lbs gross. Lol
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
I built a boost leak detector this evening to check for leaks, I couldn't find any leaks, the only air escaping I heard was from the dipstick. When i pulled the tester out I had air hiss out so I guess both are good signs. I couldnt see any soot on the up-pipes or firewall around them so I dont think I have any drive pressure leaks. Ive been able to get around 20 pounds of boost previous to my trip. Ill try to get a video(audio) of the stranbe sound if I hear it again.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 72
From: Springfield
It's reall simple, thought it was more involved than it really is. Get a 3" pvc pipe cap and drill a hole for a schrader valve. Remove the air filter on your truck and clamp the cap in. Air it with LOW pressure (15-20lbs) and listen for leaks.
I also took a look at the wheel in th turbo. It looks just fine but I wasn't able to check for any play. It's gonna be a bear to get the hose off to even reach it so maybe I'll try that tonight
I also took a look at the wheel in th turbo. It looks just fine but I wasn't able to check for any play. It's gonna be a bear to get the hose off to even reach it so maybe I'll try that tonight