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It's reall simple, thought it was more involved than it really is. Get a 3" pvc pipe cap and drill a hole for a schrader valve. Remove the air filter on your truck and clamp the cap in. Air it with LOW pressure (15-20lbs) and listen for leaks.
I also took a look at the wheel in th turbo. It looks just fine but I wasn't able to check for any play. It's gonna be a bear to get the hose off to even reach it so maybe I'll try that tonight
Use a male air hose fitiing and then you just click it on and go hands-free looking and listening for leaks. Just turn press regulator down to 15-20 psi at your compressor. Costs less than s Starbucks!
FTE member Trey Spooner has a great YouTube video for a little more complicated version and how to use it.
I've got a new KC turbo on the way so what should I get ordered to allow me to install it without a hitch? I'd imagine it would be a good idea to get rid of the ebpv but don't know for sure or what my options really are with it so what say you guys?
I've got a new KC turbo on the way so what should I get ordered to allow me to install it without a hitch? I'd imagine it would be a good idea to get rid of the ebpv but don't know for sure or what my options really are with it so what say you guys?
Bellowed up-pipes if you don't already have them, plenum inserts, boots and t-bolt clamps for plenums/spider and AIH delete plug from Riffraff, pedestal orings... I don't hate EBPV, especially in cold climates. DIY delete for $0.25 or rebuild it for about $60.
I live in central Illinois so we can see some temps close to 0 or atleast did this past winter. Would it be wise to replace the up pipes even if mine aren't leaking? I don't think the ones on it now are very old. When you talk about DIY delete which part are you referring to? I've redone some reading so a little clarification would be nice.
Which ones are you buying and installing for yourself/customers?
I've been using Dorman up-pipes and ceramic coating them. I've put on at least a dozen in the last 3-4 years and had no problems yet. That was not always the case... Prior to the current 'version' from dorman - this part was JUNK. They have revised it and the castings now look as good as Int'l but don't have the dead-end hole (that used to be too short). The only difference is Int'l uses 'stainless' tubing.
Originally Posted by Eaglescout94
I live in central Illinois so we can see some temps close to 0 or atleast did this past winter. Would it be wise to replace the up pipes even if mine aren't leaking? I don't think the ones on it now are very old. When you talk about DIY delete which part are you referring to? I've redone some reading so a little clarification would be nice.
Stock up-pipes will all leak eventually. This design uses a donut gasket that allows the pipes to slide in/out of the collector during thermal cycling (expansion/contraction). This causes wear on the pipes and sooner or later they don't seal. It is generally 'sooner' after disturbing them while R&R'ing turbo...
I have deleted lots of pedestals. Some people get way too excited about this mod... Remove the big snap ring and cover and pull the guts out of pedestal. Drill/tap the hole the actuator rod came out of and install a pipe plug with quality thread sealant. Delete is done. Plug the EBPV harness back into pedestal for no codes.
Is the tap I need 1/4 pipe? I thought that's what I read but can't recall off of the top of my head. I'm not supposed to get my shiny new "toy" until Monday, should be fun after I get it installed though.
Is the tap I need 1/4 pipe? I thought that's what I read but can't recall off of the top of my head. I'm not supposed to get my shiny new "toy" until Monday, should be fun after I get it installed though.
I think so! I may be doing this tomorrow. Maybe it's time for another DIY pedestal delete thread? (I need a film crew, lol)
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