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I'll confirm that its not too hard to bend these things, just take it slow and watch for any sign of the pipe crimping. If you need to do a radius it always helps to have something on the inside, and a spraypaint can is the perfect minimum diameter.
I just did this on my '95 F150, and it was very easy. (Even for me)
Bleeding the brakes afterward was harder.
Tip: use 1 Person bleeder screws, they have a 1 way check valve and make it easier to bleed your brake. They are $12 for 2 of them.
You can also use a pipe bender or a glass soda or beer bottle.
It looks like this.
... and get NiCopp line (easier to work with than stainless, won't degrade like regular stuff) to make your new lines with.
Kegger66, is this Nicopp line any good to replace my Trans Cooler lines? or could this be too soft for being so close to the bottom, you know like things hitting underneath.
I think it will be just fine for the trans. If you want some insurance you can slide some gravel guard over the line (check my other post for a reference from UltraRanger about where to get it - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nput-side.html)
well, I gotta ask...why does the line need to be coiled ???
Because the master cylinder is attached to the cab, and the brake pressure differential valve is attached to the frame. When the two structures flex and move around somewhat independently, the brake line gets stressed. The coils are there to provide a large section of line to 'stretch' and 'compress' when needed.
So with the coil, the stresses and fatiguing are distributed over a larger area, which adds longevity to the line.
I forget what I used to make the coils - I couldn't find the post...