KOER Test Kills Engine
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KOER Test Kills Engine
Trying to troubleshoot why I can't run a KOER test. The codes I get with with the engine off are due to pieces pulled off like the vapor can. Engine runs without the check engine light on just wanting to check codes. As for the iac engine will run with it unplugged and it still dies at start of test. Any thoughts?
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From: Virginia
I would check the timing. The computer may be pulling it around enough to run, but during the test it locks the timing at a certain value. If the dist is in the wrong place it may cause it to die.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
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I would check the timing. The computer may be pulling it around enough to run, but during the test it locks the timing at a certain value. If the dist is in the wrong place it may cause it to die.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
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I would check the timing. The computer may be pulling it around enough to run, but during the test it locks the timing at a certain value. If the dist is in the wrong place it may cause it to die.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
So when you go to check the timing and pull the spout connector to do it, it may die again. If it does, you know the timing is the problem and the dist needs to be turned till it will run without the spout. Then you can set it with a timing light. If this all turns out to be the problem, you may find a lot of other quirks may go away with the timing set properly.
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From: Virginia
Try taking the spout connector off, and then run the codes with the spout not connected. Taking the spout out will take timing control away from the computer.
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after post above I figured out I have to bypass code 67 which I did. Of the codes that come up seems to be the egr not opening all the way is only one to fix.
But what is my problem with the engine wanting to die at idle and start of test 1) a timing issue or 2) idle air? I should note that I don't have a fast idle on cold startup either.
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