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Old May 14, 2017 | 10:32 PM
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Manual trans won't shift

hey peeps.
i gotta 93 f150 XL it has a 4.9L and a T18 borg Werner trans.
i replaced the clutch,throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot bearing and after reinstalling trans I am unable to go through my gears.

if truck is off I can shift into some gears sometimes but not without a lot of resistance. Also some gears will let me in easy, then fight me as I try to back into neutral.

truck starts right up but if I start in neutral I can't shift into any gears and get a lot of grinding when I try to put it in gear.

if I start in gear it drives in the gear but I have to force back into neutral. And then I'm stuck in neutral again.

it is a hydraulic clutch and fluid is full and there are no visible leaks. im 100% sure clutch disc is facing correct way as I triple checked it while installing. Any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks peeps,
 
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Old May 14, 2017 | 10:56 PM
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Trace the "motion" in the clutch set up starting at the pad on the pedal. Check for proper linkage, push rod, master mount, etc engagement. Check the hose for bulges. Check the slave mount for movement.

IF when you press the pedal, you get movement at the fork, you probably have an issue inside the bell. If there is no movement, go back upstream and search there.
 
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Old May 14, 2017 | 11:08 PM
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sound like clutch isnt engaging,with clutch pedal push in and in gear what height off the floor does it disengage and start to move?.as stated by 85e150six4mtod check and make sure clutch fork is moving first,
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 02:01 AM
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@ 85e150six4mtod
Traced motion, all engagement appears normal. No bulges in hoses either. When pedal is fully pressed in fork and release bearing push pressure plate in. It looks like pressure plate is fully pressed in when I clutch.

@sawmaned
Before swap, clutch needed to be pressed to firewall in order to engage and wouldn't disengage and begin rolling till about an inch of release.
After swap it still needs to be pressed to firewall to engage but disengagement in gear



is much more responsive and I begin to roll almost immediately but I'd say 1/4" to 1/2" release and I'm rolling.

Also worth noting is prior to clutch job I suspected my synchros in my trans were going bad bc first and reverse would be spinning when dropping in to gear so I used to have to gently push shifter in to gear, allowing synchs to slow to a stop before dropping completely into gear. So now I'm wondering if while moving trans around the synchs some how moved or if they just finally clocked out.
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 02:04 AM
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Thanks for the help guys
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 07:20 AM
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manual clutch ftw... sounds like the clutch is dragging.
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Hi coyote, I moved your thread to the clutch/transmission forum since it is not related to the engine. Hopefully you'll get more specialized attention on your issue over here.
 
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Old May 16, 2017 | 01:02 PM
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Are you saying that with the clutch all the way in and the engine running, you can feel it grind before it goes into gear? If so, your clutch is not fully disengaging because it doesn't have enough travel.

Is your T-18 factory, or did you swap something else out for it?

Have you looked at the firewall for excessive flexing while someone is stepping on the clutch?
 
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Old May 17, 2017 | 10:14 AM
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Have you tried bleeding the clutch? Maybe air in line....
 
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Old May 17, 2017 | 12:12 PM
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Thanks for moving the thread bronco.

@andym
Yes, with clutch fully in and truck on I feel it grinding the second I try to move it into gear.
This used to be the case prior to replacing my clutch too, but only for first and reverse gear, only difference now is it doesn't let me in gear at all where as before i would hear grinding but it would eventually slow to a stop and let me in gear.

Previous owner told me this is the factory transmission. I did a little research and found out that the 93 f150 did come with a 4speed borg Werner t18 transmission, but it was not as common as the 5speed

Also I've definitely noticed excessive flexing on firewall but no more than the old clutch flexed aswell. I will double check the travel on my clutch fork.

@lee
I will be bleeding it tonight initially I didn't being that my fluid level didn't drop and neither did my lines leak at all during the job. Also no bleeder valve so I'm guessing just crack the hose at the bottom?

Appreciate the help guys thanks
 
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Old May 17, 2017 | 06:03 PM
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Firewall flex, cracking, rust etc was an '80s issue. Not impossible for yours. This won't fit your truck, but will give you an idea of what to consider if you want to reinforce your firewall. I made my own for my E150 as the floor flexed causing the master to bind up. Ya gots to do what ya gots to do:

ford firewall page
 
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