The truck ran normal before I did this except the hpop gasket and passenger side line always leaking. This is the fourth time I've changed the hpop gasket and line oring in 4 months. I'm going to look up oil rail removal videos to see if the oil rail is alright. Hell I'm not sure if that's part of the head though. I had a injector out of my 7.3 and bumped the starter to get the stuff out of the cylinder and reinstalled the injector. Now the truck will crank and crank but finally start and run rough. The check engine light does not come on until it starts. It gives me codes 1690 1316 1212 0340 (there were no codes before). Any help would be great and im thinking it's a cam position sensor since i bumped it wierd. Also I'm noticing blowby. It doesn't blow the cap off the oil spout or even move it really. With what experience you have would you do a compression to see if it's a rebuild situation or just a replace injector orings. I think if I replace the camshaft position sensor it will get it's timing back but that still leaves the blowby issue. What would you think about the blowby? The cup being improperly seated could cause it maybe? I'm just hoping I can get away with injectors orings and not a head rebuild. If it has good compression, that would mean it's the orings right? Thank you and please ask questions.

 

Update! Truck will start after about 10 seconds of cranking and run rough. After I give it a little pedal the idle smooths out to normal. Now while it's in park it idles fine but when I put it in gear it starts a noticeable knock and has no power to where it's want to stall. Thanks again.

 

Moved to 7.3L PSD forum.

 

My bad Redford. I'm using a phone and not use to it.

 

The oil rail is an integral part of the head on a 7.3 liter. It's the 6.0 that has the removable oil rails on top of the injectors. I'm having a hard time deciphering what your actual question is, though . . .

 

The truck had no issues except a leaking hpop gasket. I've put 2 gaskets on it trying to get the leak to stop. It will be good for about a week and then developed a leak in the same spot (on the bottom of the gasket) and also blow the passenger side line seal in the process. It has done this same thing all 3 times I have installed and reinstalled the gasket and seal. I took the passenger line off as well as the valve cover. I removed the front injector to look at the orings. I reinstalled everything and started the truck. Now I have the codes which were not there before and the rough running issue. It had little blow by before as compared to more now.

I was wanting to know, if with the information I'm giving, someone could help me troubleshoot what could have changed just by me doing what I did.
Thank you

What would they need to know?

 

A knock in the engine usually means air is getting into the oil or fuel. Are you chipped? Many tuners hammer the ICP with what I call a "Stinky Spike", and this is one possible cause for the HPOP gasket to not stay put. Are you monitoring your OBDII sensors, like IPR and ICP? [LINK]

 

No tuner no monitor. Just going off cel. The truck cranks for 10 seconds, starts, runs rough for about 5 seconds levels out and idles normal. Put it in gear, rpms drop andcreates a noticeable knock, struggles with power but does stay running.

 

Two things... Injector O-rings are not reuseable, once you pulled that injector you need to install new O-rings and copper.

Second once you removed that injector you drained the rails of all the oil and fuel. It will take 60-80 miles before all the air is out of the system. You will get a long crank, rough idle.

However, the knock you are describing is odd, could be your description, could be another piece of the puzzle...

 

Ah... knock develops under load. I think Gaugepro has it - party foul on the injector install. You will want to do a search on installing injectors.

 

i would still suggest pulling IcP and IPR numbers (duty cycle?) as well, if you have an android tablet or phone grab Torque Pro and an Obd2 dongle (Most here like me and Tug prefer the ObdLink MX which is a green unit) and use Torque to monitor the truck, if you are curious about Learning more check out tugly's link and the Torque pro FAQ (on my phone so dig may or may not post)

 

My apologies for the party foul(already have orings) and I'm working on obtaining a live data reader guys. Truck is operating a little better. Cleared codes and then retested it and the only code it's throwing now is a 1316-idm code. With no other codes present, does that mean it's a bad idm, or did it consolidate all the DTC's? Thank you

https://youtu.be/YmO7tZiCMdQ

 

The passenger side bank is not working. I got the handy dandy multimeter out and checked the vcwh for continuity and it tested good. I already have two new vc's, but with this one testing good and the pigtail in good shape does that narrow it down to a bad idm? Any video links to test a idm would help. I will be searching. Thanks

 

Swapped out the valve cover harness with a new one problem solved. So I guess a continuity test on the old one was a bad test but I know I did it right not sure if you can trust the test thanks guys

 

When you do the injector re-installation, make sure you are following the correct procedure. It's not just a remove/reinstall.

http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/conten...structions.pdf

To those instructions, I would also add hot-torquing the injectors on installation. There are a few recent threads in here discussing this.