Distributor shaft broken?
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Distributor shaft broken?
I am not an ace mechanic but I have old truck I just bought and I love it.. Today the shaft of the distributor must have broken or something that is preventing the distributor contact from turning. It was on there when I bought the truck and obviously new. The box for new one came with the truck with the old distributor inside. The box was for a cheap advanced auto special. The old one seemed to be intact. Not sure why he changed it.
I pulled the valve cover to see if the valves were working and they are so my conclusion is the distributor shaft is broke some way.
Can anyone point me too or help with an outline of the process for putting in a "Blank" distributor. I am having trouble imaging what to do.
I assume set the motor for TDC point the distributor at the #1 plug contact on the cap. Timing the distributor with a timing light to 8 degrees BTDC as per the valve cover sticker with the specs. But I just wanted to make sure or hear from some experienced in case I am missing something.
Thanks
Matt
I pulled the valve cover to see if the valves were working and they are so my conclusion is the distributor shaft is broke some way.
Can anyone point me too or help with an outline of the process for putting in a "Blank" distributor. I am having trouble imaging what to do.
I assume set the motor for TDC point the distributor at the #1 plug contact on the cap. Timing the distributor with a timing light to 8 degrees BTDC as per the valve cover sticker with the specs. But I just wanted to make sure or hear from some experienced in case I am missing something.
Thanks
Matt
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
'Might have sheared the oil pump shaft, locked up the oil pump, broke the pin securing the dizzy gear which meshes with the camshaft, or whupped the dizzy gear itself.
I'd rotate the crank by hand to see if it spins the rotor. Post your result.
I'd rotate the crank by hand to see if it spins the rotor. Post your result.
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Nope didn't spin. The distributor runs off the oil pump? The truck came with paper work he had new FORD short block put in it 4 years ago with 15000+- miles on it.
The thing is the distributor doesn't spin by hand, but doesn't manually (Now we know) and doesn't spin with the starter.
Matt
The thing is the distributor doesn't spin by hand, but doesn't manually (Now we know) and doesn't spin with the starter.
Matt
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
More that the oil pump is driven by the distributor.
Follow along.....
1. The dizzy is timed/phased and driven by a gear on the camshaft.
2. The camshaft is connected via a sprocket and timing chain to a sprocket on the crankshaft. Both are located behind the timing cover.
3. The oil pump is connected to the distributor by the oil pump shaft.
If the distributor is not moving when turning the crank, then the connection between the crank and distributor is missing.
... 1. Broken timing chain; or
....2. Stripped distributor (driven) gear; or,
....3. Sheared pin that secures the gear to the distributor shaft.
Follow along.....
1. The dizzy is timed/phased and driven by a gear on the camshaft.
2. The camshaft is connected via a sprocket and timing chain to a sprocket on the crankshaft. Both are located behind the timing cover.
3. The oil pump is connected to the distributor by the oil pump shaft.
If the distributor is not moving when turning the crank, then the connection between the crank and distributor is missing.
... 1. Broken timing chain; or
....2. Stripped distributor (driven) gear; or,
....3. Sheared pin that secures the gear to the distributor shaft.
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New User
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I know its not the timing chain or the cam would not move the valve and the valves are moving. I just want to replace the distributor but I am not sure how to find the timing once I do. I just want to make sure if I pull the distributor I can put it back so that the timing is within reason of the distributor adjustment. Follow me?
If it more than the distributor I'll buy a full engine to put in.
Thanks for your help.
Matt
If it more than the distributor I'll buy a full engine to put in.
Thanks for your help.
Matt
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Somebody here can walk you through "stabbing" a new distributor, don't worry about that too much. Follow the procedure carefully and it will fire up on the first try.
The real question is what broke, and why. The roll pin for example, that secures the gear on the distributor is kind of a sacrificial deal. It sometimes shears off, instead of really lunching something important but, it shouldn't happen.
The real question is what broke, and why. The roll pin for example, that secures the gear on the distributor is kind of a sacrificial deal. It sometimes shears off, instead of really lunching something important but, it shouldn't happen.
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Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
When you pull the distributor make sure your #1 cylinder is TDC on the compression stroke. There's another #1 TDC but that's on the exhaust stroke.
Mark the cap where #1 is...should have a mark there anyway and note which direction the rotor is pointing. I think it's ~ 1200 hours, looking down at it from the front...on the M Block anyway... IF your vacuum advance can's nipple is facing front.....don't know what engine you have.
After it's pulled, inspect the gear....it shouldn't move when turned if you're holding the rotor. If it does, the shear pin (or roll pin) is pooched.
Then, tape a 6 point 0.25" socket to an extension...slide it down the distributor hole and engage the oil pump drive shaft. Try turning it CCW....feel for resistance and, if the valve covers are off, watch for oil slithering up the pushrods, through the rockers and down the valve springs. This will tell you if the oil pump shaft is still good.
If the driveshaft is pooned, does this mean you'd buy a new engine? Shooot, if so, I have part of the Brooklyn Bridge to sell ya...hehehe.
Mark the cap where #1 is...should have a mark there anyway and note which direction the rotor is pointing. I think it's ~ 1200 hours, looking down at it from the front...on the M Block anyway... IF your vacuum advance can's nipple is facing front.....don't know what engine you have.
After it's pulled, inspect the gear....it shouldn't move when turned if you're holding the rotor. If it does, the shear pin (or roll pin) is pooched.
Then, tape a 6 point 0.25" socket to an extension...slide it down the distributor hole and engage the oil pump drive shaft. Try turning it CCW....feel for resistance and, if the valve covers are off, watch for oil slithering up the pushrods, through the rockers and down the valve springs. This will tell you if the oil pump shaft is still good.
If the driveshaft is pooned, does this mean you'd buy a new engine? Shooot, if so, I have part of the Brooklyn Bridge to sell ya...hehehe.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Apr 2017
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Somebody here can walk you through "stabbing" a new distributor, don't worry about that too much. Follow the procedure carefully and it will fire up on the first try.
The real question is what broke, and why. The roll pin for example, that secures the gear on the distributor is kind of a sacrificial deal. It sometimes shears off, instead of really lunching something important but, it shouldn't happen.
The real question is what broke, and why. The roll pin for example, that secures the gear on the distributor is kind of a sacrificial deal. It sometimes shears off, instead of really lunching something important but, it shouldn't happen.
When you pull the distributor make sure your #1 cylinder is TDC on the compression stroke. There's another #1 TDC but that's on the exhaust stroke.
Mark the cap where #1 is...should have a mark there anyway and note which direction the rotor is pointing. I think it's ~ 1200 hours, looking down at it from the front...on the M Block anyway... IF your vacuum advance can's nipple is facing front.....don't know what engine you have.
After it's pulled, inspect the gear....it shouldn't move when turned if you're holding the rotor. If it does, the shear pin (or roll pin) is pooched.
Then, tape a 6 point 0.25" socket to an extension...slide it down the distributor hole and engage the oil pump drive shaft. Try turning it CCW....feel for resistance and, if the valve covers are off, watch for oil slithering up the pushrods, through the rockers and down the valve springs. This will tell you if the oil pump shaft is still good.
If the driveshaft is pooned, does this mean you'd buy a new engine? Shooot, if so, I have part of the Brooklyn Bridge to sell ya...hehehe.
Mark the cap where #1 is...should have a mark there anyway and note which direction the rotor is pointing. I think it's ~ 1200 hours, looking down at it from the front...on the M Block anyway... IF your vacuum advance can's nipple is facing front.....don't know what engine you have.
After it's pulled, inspect the gear....it shouldn't move when turned if you're holding the rotor. If it does, the shear pin (or roll pin) is pooched.
Then, tape a 6 point 0.25" socket to an extension...slide it down the distributor hole and engage the oil pump drive shaft. Try turning it CCW....feel for resistance and, if the valve covers are off, watch for oil slithering up the pushrods, through the rockers and down the valve springs. This will tell you if the oil pump shaft is still good.
If the driveshaft is pooned, does this mean you'd buy a new engine? Shooot, if so, I have part of the Brooklyn Bridge to sell ya...hehehe.
I appreciate the walk through. Those are details I was looking for.
Shouldn't turning the engine over push oil through rocker arms? I was was pretty sure it was but I'll recruit some help tomorrow and make sure. Then I'll update.
I don't want to buy an engine..LOL...Or a bridge.
Thanks again.
Matt
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Before pulling the dizzy, read this: How to Install a New Distributor - Hot Rod Network
It covers both known timing and unknown timing.
It covers both known timing and unknown timing.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
It has a stock 302 sorry I didn't mention that.
I appreciate the walk through. Those are details I was looking for.
Shouldn't turning the engine over push oil through rocker arms? I was was pretty sure it was but I'll recruit some help tomorrow and make sure. Then I'll update.
I don't want to buy an engine..LOL...Or a bridge.
Thanks again.
Matt
I appreciate the walk through. Those are details I was looking for.
Shouldn't turning the engine over push oil through rocker arms? I was was pretty sure it was but I'll recruit some help tomorrow and make sure. Then I'll update.
I don't want to buy an engine..LOL...Or a bridge.
Thanks again.
Matt
Actually, turning an engine over by hand won't get the distributor (and oil pump) turning fast enough to pump any oil. A 1/2" electric drill will be put to test trying to turn the oil pump shaft fast enough to get the blood circulating. ....A note on that - I don't believe a 3/8" drill has the poop to turn the shaft...I always use an 1/2."
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Measure any replacement/rebuilt distributor for correct dimensions, this is sometimes overlooked. (From mounting boss to end of distributor shaft) You get what you pay for, if you're lucky.
Does it have a high output oil pump or something like that? Remember the distributor drives the oil pump.
Read up online on V8 distributors and engine tuning, timing, and vacuum advance there is more information available at your fingertips these days than ever before.
Does it have a high output oil pump or something like that? Remember the distributor drives the oil pump.
Read up online on V8 distributors and engine tuning, timing, and vacuum advance there is more information available at your fingertips these days than ever before.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 342
Likes: 6
From: Big Sky MT
I would check why the gear striped the pin holding it to the shaft. I had this happen on a rebuild that I had done. The valve stem seals were getting crushed by the retainers hitting them from being machined wrong. The seals get in the oil pan then through the oil pump screen into the pump that stops for a second and shears the pin on the gear. Clean the oil pan replace the oil pump & pick up screen.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I would check why the gear striped the pin holding it to the shaft. I had this happen on a rebuild that I had done. The valve stem seals were getting crushed by the retainers hitting them from being machined wrong. The seals get in the oil pan then through the oil pump screen into the pump that stops for a second and shears the pin on the gear. Clean the oil pan replace the oil pump & pick up screen.
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