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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Under bed electrical work

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Old May 7, 2017 | 10:19 PM
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Under bed electrical work

So, I'm going to be starting work soon on re-wiring my old chassis-cab truck (86 F350 Dually) and I need some resources...

I'm going to start under the bed of the truck, for simplicity. But my dilemma is this: what circuits should even exist from the back of the cab to the rear bumper?

I know I should have separate circuits for the turn signals, brake lights, and tail lights, a circuit for the reverse lights, but should I even have anything else back there? a fuel level circuit, maybe?

Also, as part of the re-wire, where is the switch that activates the reverse lights? my reverse lights don't work, and I really want to repair that problem.

Im going to have way more that I need info on over time, like swapping the factory switches with toggles, but for now, this is a good place for me to start.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 06:58 AM
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Reverse light switch is on the gearbox behind the stick if manual or part of the NSS if a C6.

There will be sender wiring.
It will go through the selector valve if you have two tanks.

​​​​​​​Gary has the 1986 EVTM on his Garagemahal website.
 
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Old May 8, 2017 | 07:09 AM
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Yes, start here: 1986 EVTM - ???Gary's Garagemahal. Then read the description of what is on the subsequent pages for what you are looking for. And, don't miss that most sections have a page that shows where the connectors and grounds are.

For instance, Turn/Stop/Hazard Lights have a schematic on Page 77 that shows how things are wired, and shows each connector. Page 78 tells where each connector is as well as the color of the connector and the number of terminals in it. And Page 79 shows where many of this connectors are.
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 12:04 AM
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ok, so more electrical sleuthing is needed. I have this rats nest of wiring by my passenger side battery. as far as I can tell, my glow plug relay is in there, but the thing hanging off the side is something that I have no ideas about, and same with the connector that's just sitting there. If anyone knows what the stuff is and can identify it, that would help me a ton! and kudos if you know what the wires should be too! lol

its kinda hard to see, but there's a small metal box down there too, with wires going into it. I don't know what that is either.




wiring rats nest
 
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Old May 10, 2017 | 05:32 AM
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The tin box is the voltage regulator.
​​​​​​​This controls the alternator output.

Usually when there is a connector clipped out of the way it is a test connector or for an option (like the underhood light) that you may not have.
I don't know too much about the engine bay harness for the diesel trucks.
​​​​​​​Perhaps Dave (Franklin2) can help, or you can have a look at the diesel diagrams in the EVTM on Gary's Garagemahal.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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So I discovered when I fixed my belt brackets, that 2-wire plug clipped to the side comes right off the alternator. Which makes me wonder, is the alternator one with an integral voltage regulator, or can I get one that is? it would make the rewire of this truck that much simpler.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:14 PM
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Is your build date still readable on the sticker on the door pillar ?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Is your build date still readable on the sticker on the door pillar ?
Probably. I can't go read it right now, but the build sticker is still there for now. Does the build date change what alternators are available for it?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:38 PM
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Since there is no regulator on the fender then you must have a 2G alternator. Those were prone to fires, so the 3G is the replacement for you. Just look in the stickies for a how-to.

EDIT: I missed the "silver box". Yes, you have a 1G.
 

Last edited by Gary Lewis; Jul 17, 2017 at 04:46 PM. Reason: Missed it!
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:44 PM
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You have a 100 amp 1G style external regulator alternator. That's what came with the diesels unless you had the ambulance package with the huge Neece-Leville alternator.

Like someone else said, that silver box in the picture below is your external regulator. Unless someone upgraded your truck.

 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Since there is no regulator on the fender then you must have a 2G alternator. Those were prone to fires, so the 3G is the replacement for you. Just look in the stickies for a how-to.

EDIT: I missed the "silver box". Yes, you have a 1G.
Can I still upgrade to the "3g" and ditch the external regulator? And do you know what the part number would be? So I can find one to buy?
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SgtOtaku
Does the build date change what alternators are available for it?
Someone mentioned you had a regulator on the wheel well there, but looking at Gary's manual, the 86' diesel had an internal regulator. The 85' diesel drawing had an external regulator.

So my thinking (sometimes I shouldn't do) if you do have an external regulator, maybe its a carryover from 85' if your build date was in 85' for the 86' MY.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by vjsimone
Someone mentioned you had a regulator on the wheel well there, but looking at Gary's manual, the 86' diesel had an internal regulator. The 85' diesel drawing had an external regulator.

So my thinking (sometimes I shouldn't do) if you do have an external regulator, maybe its a carryover from 85' if your build date was in 85' for the 86' MY.
I looked at the build sticker. It gives me specs, but no build date.
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 05:04 PM
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The certification label should have the build date in the upper left corner: Certification Label - ???Gary's Garagemahal
 
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Old Jul 17, 2017 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
The certification label should have the build date in the upper left corner: Certification Label - ???Gary's Garagemahal
So comparing your pictures, and my label, and mine is alot shorter. It also says "incomplete vehicle" on it. I'll get a picture when I have a chance.
 
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