When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I think I'm going to go ahead and buy the system today...this is the set up I found.
Just so I'm clear...(I think I'm overthinking)...everything you have is powered off of the OEM amp...EXCEPT the factory sub and the new sub box. Those 2 subs, you routed off of your JL amp. And you set it up like this diagram. You also have a sub control that you mounted somewhere to get better control. And you hooked up the power for the new amp to the inverter under the back seat and I assume just grounded to the body somewhere as well.
That's pretty much it. There are a couple differences from the diagram. First difference is simple. I have two outputs from my amp. So, one goes to the OE sub enclosure and one to the Kicker sub. The series wiring in the diagram is correct for the OE sub with is DVC. The second difference is this. The kicker is just a single voicecoil and the box is prewired. So, you just connect up the wires to the input terminals on the box.
Exactly right. I had some on the shelf but any will do. I tapped both the OE outputs that feed the OE sub so those 4 total wires went to two RCA's that fed my amp. (The OE amp sends separate channels to the dual voice coils on the OE sub.) Again, my JL Amp has a switch to accept either low or high level input so if you buy an amp that only accepts low level, you'll need a line out converter as opposed to the speaker to RCA adapters.
I'm thinking this might work for what I am doing. I'll have to bridge it unlike what you were able to do being as the 4 ohm is bridging, vs the 2 separate outputs would be 2 ohm it looks like.
That's a good amp and you wouldn't have to bridge it being a 2 channel amp. I'd leave it in 2 channel and use the low pass crossover. It would be rated just right that way for the two subs you want to drive. It also looks like it will accept speaker level inputs via RCA. Seems like a very good fit. I'd go for the open box and save $30. All the stuff I buy from Crutchfield I get open box. It's always perfect.
Where did you end up putting your sub control ****? And how easy is it to run
I mounted it in a blank area of the dash to the left of the steering wheel. I just remembered that I did document the install with some pics... Ugh, sorry, I had forgotten. It starts on page 464 of my Today thread and continues for a few pages with the usual BS mixed in. You can see my messy wire runs there but also the Dynamat on the OE box and doors that you were asking about as well as some side by side comparisons of the OE vs. aftermarket speakers.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
