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Does anyone know what this part is called and where I can either buy a new one or find pieces to make a replacement?
This is a panel (or whatever you call it) that is connected between the fan switch and the fan inside my dealer-installed AC evaporator unit. All the electrical components are working properly, but the coating on the cylinder is brittle and coming off, and it is apparently getting hot enough to melt some nearby plastic on the housing. I'd like to take care of that issue while I have the evaporator unit apart.
1968/72 F100/350 with factory or dealer A/C: The bezels are all "hang-on" units, as they bolt to the bottom of the dash.
Deluxe & Economy Ford dealer installed A/C: The bezel bolts to the bottom of the dash, the fan switch and temp control switch are located in the bezel.
Deluxe A/C bezel located below the entire right and left sides of the dash, while the Economy bezel is located below at the center of the dash.
Here's a picture of the whole unit. My main interest is in replacing/repairing this part. I don't think I'm going to be able to find a straight across replacement since it is just one component inside the evaporator unit.
That is an aftermarket A/C unit. If the resistor is bad there is no way of finding out it's values. It looks like a three way resistor but only two speed wires. Do you have 2 or 3 speeds on the switch?
There are three speeds. And they all work. The only problem is that the resistor appears to get pretty hot--enough damage some nearby plastic. I'd like to take care of the heating issue.
There are three speeds. And they all work. The only problem is that the resistor appears to get pretty hot--enough damage some nearby plastic. I'd like to take care of the heating issue.
Sounds to me that the resistor is doing it's job but the motor is going bad and drawing too much current. You see, the friction caused by the normal current flowing through the resistor creates heat. That's why Ford put their blower motor resistors in the A/C or heater plenum chamber so the air flow could carry this heat away. But when a blower motor is worn out it draws more electrical current. So if I am right you have a lot more current flowing through that resistor which creates a lot more heat (friction). I'll bet that if you spin that blower motor by hand it don't spin as freely as it should.
If you're familiar with electronics and multimeters, you can measure the current draw by running the motor. There 'might' be a data plate on the motor with the current rating. Most meters can handle 10 amps and are fused.
See what the current fuse is and go from there.
Here's a site to calculate if you need.
You could probably just modify it so a Ford blower resistor would work. That one probably runs one wire for low, the other for medium, and both together for high speed. The heater blower resistor runs one for low, the other for medium, and bypasses them for high.
Sounds to me that the resistor is doing it's job but the motor is going bad and drawing too much current. You see, the friction caused by the normal current flowing through the resistor creates heat. That's why Ford put their blower motor resistors in the A/C or heater plenum chamber so the air flow could carry this heat away. But when a blower motor is worn out it draws more electrical current. So if I am right you have a lot more current flowing through that resistor which creates a lot more heat (friction). I'll bet that if you spin that blower motor by hand it don't spin as freely as it should.
Jeff, I have to say your explanation of his issue is spot on. I don't normally expect most parts guys to have the understanding of how systems operate but you surprised me.
I have an old amp gauge I wire in series to check amp draw. My Fluke is unfused and I don't want to risk damaging it. Plus a digital doesn't always respond fast enough to show the momentary pull in to get the motor running. It can be a lot. My electric cooling fan pulls 50 amps for a split second to get it running but about 12 to maintain. On high, I'd expect a blower motor to draw 4-5 amps. If the resistor is doing it's job, maybe just re-insulate it with something like high heat silicon. I also agree it wouldn't be hard to modify one from something else to work.
Jeff, I have to say your explanation of his issue is spot on. I don't normally expect most parts guys to have the understanding of how systems operate but you surprised me.
Thanks for the compliment Buddy. I've been a Ford Parts man working at various Ford, Lincoln and Mercury Dealers since 1977. I've read things, heard Mechanics, and talked with them all these years. PLUS, I took Vocational Auto Mechanics Sophomore through my Senior year in High School. 1973 1/2 through 1975. This was both book and hands on in our own High School shop. I've done everything except set up a rear end and inside a A/T. Vehicles are too complicated now a days for this ol' dog to work on to make money on the side like I used too. I wonder how much I've forgotten all these years?
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