U-Joints
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 417
Likes: 37
U-Joints
I'm looking through the list of U-joints on the rock auto page and trying to figure out which ones I need for the drive lines. Are the ujoints all the same or are there some that have the multi-size ujoints?
I'm trying to see what the different part numbers are in the table on the moog link and they are all over the place.
I have a standard cab 4wd 1987 F250. Each driveline has one u-joint at each end with no half-shafts.
Moog Universal Joints Chart | By Size | Moog
I'm trying to see what the different part numbers are in the table on the moog link and they are all over the place.
I have a standard cab 4wd 1987 F250. Each driveline has one u-joint at each end with no half-shafts.
Moog Universal Joints Chart | By Size | Moog
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 417
Likes: 37
Thank you, that gives me a place to start on mine.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
Your best bet may be to measure them all the see.
Things should be standardish... but if someone swapped a driveshaft or transfer case with another truck things maybe a little off. I know my '88 needs one of the multi-size joints at the rear differential due to the driveshaft being from a gas truck originally.
Things should be standardish... but if someone swapped a driveshaft or transfer case with another truck things maybe a little off. I know my '88 needs one of the multi-size joints at the rear differential due to the driveshaft being from a gas truck originally.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 25
From: NJ
Don't take this as gospel as I'm going off memory, but I think automatic trucks had 1330F joints at transfer case and rear axle positions and I believe front driveshaft as well. They be 1330Fx1330 with the regular 1330 part on the driveshaft itself. The idea being Ford wanted a thicker cap in Ubolt positions to help prevent deformation. The center joint on a two piece shaft would be a 1330.
Manual trucks 3/4 ton and 1 ton had 1350 joints for the rear shaft all positions, 1330 or 1330F on front shaft.
Manual trucks 3/4 ton and 1 ton had 1350 joints for the rear shaft all positions, 1330 or 1330F on front shaft.
Tuned
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 265
Likes: 1
From: Portland OR
I did my u-joints by myself one time and then a couple months later one exploded on the highway, soo, I'd get a shop to press new ones in. They will know the right sizes and stuff and if you get them to do it all BEFORE the driveshaft gets messed up you won't have to also pay for them to rebuild it and stuff.
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,860
Likes: 7
I did my u-joints by myself one time and then a couple months later one exploded on the highway, soo, I'd get a shop to press new ones in. They will know the right sizes and stuff and if you get them to do it all BEFORE the driveshaft gets messed up you won't have to also pay for them to rebuild it and stuff.
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
The grease that's inside is both minimal and crummy, at best.
I use the socket and vice method sometimes, hammer works too but the vice is more 'precise'.
If you are using a hammer(or vice too), make sure to press/hammer the cap in place /with the cross pushed into it/. This keeps the little bearings from falling out of place.
Also, of course, make sure that things turn freely after install - I usually end up installing one cap, then the first c-clip then the other cap, then the other C-clip... and then hammer the /cross/ back towards the first cap, which usually buys a couple of thousanths of play end makes it move freely vs being 'jammed' in place.
Trending Topics
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 203
Likes: 1
From: Agassiz, BC Canada
I did my u-joints by myself one time and then a couple months later one exploded on the highway, soo, I'd get a shop to press new ones in. They will know the right sizes and stuff and if you get them to do it all BEFORE the driveshaft gets messed up you won't have to also pay for them to rebuild it and stuff.
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
I mean, this is just what I'd personally do. You might be doing this a better way than a 3/4" socket and hammer like I used haha
I did mine at home with a socket, vice and bessey clamp and they are still going strong several years and 80,000+ km later. Just be careful and ensure everything is moving properly once your done.
Grease, lot's of grease! I went with grease able joints and I grease them every oil change, a cheap way to make expensive stuff last way longer! I also hand packed all the joints while I was putting things together, which helps keep the rollers from falling out as well.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 3
From: Lampasas,TX
Your best bet is to remove the old u-joints and measure the diameter of each cap and the width of each cross with the caps installed. There are some u-joints that have different size caps and different widths on the two crosses of a single u-joint. I know for a fact that some trucks of the same year model show 3 different possible u-joints in the catalog.
I know of one online driveline shop that will not sell you a u-joint based upon application. You must give them the dimensions of the u-joint you are replacing. Obviously they have had too many customers call and complain that their new u-joint doesn't fit after selling them one based on application.
I know of one online driveline shop that will not sell you a u-joint based upon application. You must give them the dimensions of the u-joint you are replacing. Obviously they have had too many customers call and complain that their new u-joint doesn't fit after selling them one based on application.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 417
Likes: 37
I'm going to remove the front driveshaft ones first and work on the rear drive shaft after that. I've replaced them on my own before, as was mentioned it's important to make sure they aren't binding after you replace them. Usually I use a ball joint press or a big hammer, but I may invest in a hydraulic press this time.
Thanks for the warning that the sizes are all over the place. I'm too used to jeeps that had been the same size for 10 years.
Thanks for the warning that the sizes are all over the place. I'm too used to jeeps that had been the same size for 10 years.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,295
Likes: 25
From: NJ
I find for joints in driveshafts it's easier to either do the hammer and socket or sockets in a vise method. Too big to finagle a large item in the press and set up for something that comes out easy. I typically use the press for axle joints though, as unless they've been replaced recently they're really averse to leaving the position they've been in for 30+ years.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ola1234
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
1
Sep 20, 2012 06:35 PM