Hey guys so im looking for a conversion kit for my 82 to change to Electronic Igniton.Ive heard points are less reliable and dont provide as hot as spark.My problem is i cant find a kit besides the Pertronix and ive heard terrible things about them.Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

Your 82 has electronic ignition if it is original

 

the previous owner had points put on it because of the bomb....doesnt make sense since he had the motor built but I just shake my head.How would I go back and change it to electronic?Thanks for the reply.

 

I've heard of that, of people looking for 1993 and earlier Dodge diesel pickups, because there was no electronics running those.

You will need a DuraSpark II distributor with the proper gear on the end for your year and camshaft gear, a ICM (Ignition Control Module, goes on the fender) for your engine setup, wiring between. I guess it's possible that the wiring may still be hanging there, look up your year and engine on Rock Auto, look at distributors and ICM's. And see the plugs on them, maybe the wiring with those plugs are still there. If not, you will need a diagram, and buy the pigtail plugs to make up your own harness for them.

 

would it really be worth it to switch back in your opinion?Or should I just find out what year ram he got it from and just keep up maintenence on that distributer?

 

Oh, you misunderstood me. My reference to the 1993 & earlier Dodge diesel was just in regards to some people preparing for "surviving" a nuclear war, like your truck's previous owner seemed to be.

If your Bronco was my daily driver , I would convert it back to stock. If it was just a play truck, then maybe a decent Pertronix kit would be simplest. Or keep a spare set of points and needed tools with you at all times!

Pertronix History:
Pertronix - The original Pertronix kit had a major flaw... if you left the ignition in "Run", but the engine not running, their design could not handle the continuous current through the ignition coil if the points happened to be closed, and would burn up!!! What a crappy design, nobody thought of that!

Then they came out with the "Pertronix II", which handled that condition without burning up. There are a lot of classic car folks that have converted original points to Pertronix. I kept mine points, but then I grew up with carbs and points and etc.

Ford Points - Ford used the "bend it and try again (and again...)" method of setting point gap. An iterative process that was a pain, using a feeler gauge, having the engine set so the points rubbing block was at the tip of the distributor's cam, and then bending the side of the points to get the required gap. Then run it and check with a Dwell Meter, find it off, go back and feel and bend again, etc.

GM Points - On the other hand, all my GM cars with points were a breeze to set, because their points had a spring-loaded adjustment allen-head screw in the side of them. And the distributor had a little square slide up/down metal shutter in the side of the distributor cap. So after installing the new points, I would just attach my Dwell Meter, and crank the starter. If it started, lift the shutter, insert allen wrench, and turn it until I got the proper dwell right on. If it wouldn't start, adjust points more open or closed to get it to run, then fine-tune. SIMPLE! I think GM held a patent on the concept, so nobody else had it.

That ends today's obsolete-tech history lesson!

 

Contact points are not adjusted by bending anything, not sure where you are getting your information. The gap was set with a feeler gauge or a matchbook cover and tightened down with a screw that secures the points to the breaker plate. This gets the gap close enough so the engine will start and run, but setting the gap using a dwell meter will offer better results and is the actual way to do it. The GM method sure is a lot easier though.

Points and coils can be ruined in the same way as early Pertronix units and for the same reason, if the points happen to be closed when the key is left ON.

 

WOW I feel retarded.Turns out he put a distributer on it from a 69 351w because it could be ran by just a hot wire.I appreciate the help Torky!