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No, I did not tell them anything other than it wasn't working. I had a resistor that was falling out, so the display was getting dimmer. Eventually, it died when the resistor did fall out. I sent it to them (they are a site sponsor BTW), and they repaired that resistor and several other solder joints that needed attention. They will go through the whole board for you, and you don't have to ask them. They just do it that way to ensure they don't get returns on warranty.
If your display is working (brightness), then send it to them and tell them what your issue is. They will test everything out for you. I only paid about $60, so I was very happy with the results.
Heck, I pulled a trailer back from the farm (500 miles), and it was still pretty accurate on that trip. I actually got .4 MPG better than the overhead told me I did, but that is still pretty close when towing a trailer. When not towing, it is within .2 MPG for me when hand calculating.
Has anyone ever tried writing a tune that would cut some injectors out at highway speeds and low load conditions? Or would the lack of fuel cause a reduction in cylinder lubrication?
My G'pa had a 1981 Cadillac with the V8-6-4 engine. It deactivated cylinders to save fuel when not needed. It was always in the shop and pinged horribly on occasion, but it was never really rough. Dunno how it "deactivated" cylinders. He hated it, but it was a company car so he was stuck with it for two years.
NASA could probably re-calibrate the lie-o-meter to be accurate with a specific tune, but as soon as you changed tunes it would be wrong again.
FWIW best I ever got on a full tank was 19.2 mpg. Running down the flat Central Valley cruise controlled at 63 in the "stock" tune on the DP.
I never worry about fuel milage. Only when we're towing our travel trailer. 38' long and 11,500lbs. I get 12 to 13..and I'm never the last one up the grade either lol. If we're needing better fuel milage we drive my wife's new Impala.
My G'pa had a 1981 Cadillac with the V8-6-4 engine. It deactivated cylinders to save fuel when not needed. It was always in the shop and pinged horribly on occasion, but it was never really rough. Dunno how it "deactivated" cylinders.
By way of electrical solenoids that would keep the intake and exhaust valves closed when those cylinders were deactivated. This minimized pumping losses and negated most parasitic draw save for the piston rings and slight cam load for the light spring in the rocker arm fulcrum.
The 7.3, without the hardware to close the valves, becomes a lethargic turd on whatever remaining cylinders are doing the work.
It's a problem that ALL variable displacement (or displacement-on-demand) systems/vehicles have though. If you've ever driven a vehicle with the system, it RARELY EVER "drops" cylinders when not going downhill or barely maintaining speed. It's a novel concept (handled by special lifters these days rather than rocker arms) but if the engine is under ANY load, the system isn't doing any good.
The 7.3, without the hardware to close the valves, becomes a lethargic turd on whatever remaining cylinders are doing the work.
In another thread, the coast clutch is described - as I (mis)understood it - as locking the crank to the wheels when coasting under certain conditions and the PCM would either not fire the injectors, or fire them at some minimal rate. I have a ZF6, and I do this all the time in town (I'd like a new rear bumper and if I find a good candidate behind me I minimize my brake usage) and Torque will show a solid 0.6ms FIPW. The engine has minimal braking effect as the intake isn't throttled like a gasser. Could such a tune work as a no load idle tune, if it were really cold overnight and you couldn't plug in? Just to cut down on the fuel burn?
What's the original point of this thread?
We have something built right into our trucks, that everybody is anxious to yank out - the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve. It is a butterfly valve that closes when actuated, except for a small opening that lets the air out while under significant pressure. When my EBPV is activated during warmup on cold mornings, I show 10-15 PSI exhaust back pressure and the EGTs bump up 100-300 degrees (depending on whether idling or driving). For those who have a "decel" tune (uses the EBPV valve as a compression brake), you can see exhaust back pressures exceeding 35 PSI - and you feel that. You won't get elevated EGTs while engine braking, as there is no fuel being applied.
I emailed PHP and asked about decelerate tunes. Jay got back to me right away and said the "Tow tune" does have engine braking. Awesome, I already have it installed.
I thought about putting mine on a manually operated cable or switch. Decided not to as the my 450 with the zf6 has much more stopping power than my 250 with the 4r100 did. But as the saying goes more is better. I still could in the future as a have a spare flapper housing.
Heavy trucks with Jake Brakes (Jacobs was the original engine brake company) have a toggle switch on the dash and run through a switch system through the clutch and throttle. I can see no reason that you couldn't do something similar with that EBPV.
There was a system years ago called the "Powerbraker". It used two relays and tapped into the idle validation switch and used a stand-alone toggle switch to turn it on and off.
I have no plans of releasing the automatic exhaust brake calibration though. Too easy to steal the recipe and resell as one's own.