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Another 7.3 no start.

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Old 04-26-2017, 09:16 AM
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Another 7.3 no start.

Truck was towed into my shop for no start. Mechanic diag as hpop pump. He is no longer here. R&R hpop with thourobred reman pump. Truck still a no start. only code is for EBP. Spacer is behind tin nut of ipr. Starter spins motor as it should. No blown fuses. WTS light works. No oil in icp or ipr sensors. GPR voltage is good. Tach moves when cranking. Disconnect ICP still no start and has 65% duty cycle. IPR has 500-1000psi the first 2sec of cranking then it drops and fluctuates 180-480. Add direct power to ipr and get 660psi the first 2sec of cranking then drops
 
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:20 AM
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How's your oil level? Make sure it's roped off, looks like it runs out of oil once you start cranking.
 
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:22 AM
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Fresh and full
 
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:18 PM
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You could pressure up the oil rails with compressed air and see if they hold. Sounds like you may be loosing your HPO In the heads. Google "Cody test" for more information.
 
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:11 PM
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2nd that "Cody test" motion. Sounds like an injector o-ring is blown and you are leaking ICP. Here's what mine did when having the same issue. That's the "Cody Test".
 
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Old 04-26-2017, 08:50 PM
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What about fuel? Pump come on with key? Fuel in fuel bowl?
 
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:21 AM
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Can the cody test be done by removing the ICP an putting air thru there or does it have to go thru the hi pressure lines?
it was easier for the mech to do it that way so that's how he did it. It didn't have a leak doing it that way


The fuel pump seems to be fine. Has fuel coming out of the bowl when he took the top off.
 
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Old 04-27-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by chaser1602
Can the cody test be done by removing the ICP an putting air thru there or does it have to go thru the hi pressure lines?
it was easier for the mech to do it that way so that's how he did it. It didn't have a leak doing it that way


The fuel pump seems to be fine. Has fuel coming out of the bowl when he took the top off.
if you have check valve fittings in your HPOP then what that mechanic did will only pressure up the drivers side head where the ICP sensor is located, it wouldn't have pressurized the other head unless you have a HPO crossover installed. If you don't have check valve fittings and pressured up the head through the ICP port and didn't actuate the IPR I believe you would have been loosing all the air back through the HPOP.
 
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Old 04-27-2017, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevota_72
if you have check valve fittings in your HPOP then what that mechanic did will only pressure up the drivers side head where the ICP sensor is located, it wouldn't have pressurized the other head unless you have a HPO crossover installed. If you don't have check valve fittings and pressured up the head through the ICP port and didn't actuate the IPR I believe you would have been loosing all the air back through the HPOP.
There is a Bolt in the Right Head just opposite the ICP for another ICP. You can use that.

What Pressure does the ICP have when Cranking? You did say the IPR is at 65% which BTW is 100% Closed. So, move the ICP to the Other Head and use P/N: D94T-50-A. Plug that into the EBP Sensor and monitor that (and the other if you have another ICP laying around).

The Pressure test can be done through the IPR (which is really the best way to perform) getting parts from Lowe's, fittings, Harbor Freight for a 24" Air Line Whip, and some Shop Air. BUT, you will need an old IPR to attach to the HPOP because the O-Ring Seal is required to seal the system. Just drill and tap at Tenormin Nut. I have the tool. But, a friend made his for about $25. Me, not so fortunate.










 
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Old 04-28-2017, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pirschwagon
There is a Bolt in the Right Head just opposite the ICP for another ICP. You can use that.

What Pressure does the ICP have when Cranking? You did say the IPR is at 65% which BTW is 100% Closed. So, move the ICP to the Other Head and use P/N: D94T-50-A. Plug that into the EBP Sensor and monitor that (and the other if you have another ICP laying around).

The Pressure test can be done through the IPR (which is really the best way to perform) getting parts from Lowe's, fittings, Harbor Freight for a 24" Air Line Whip, and some Shop Air. BUT, you will need an old IPR to attach to the HPOP because the O-Ring Seal is required to seal the system. Just drill and tap at Tenormin Nut. I have the tool. But, a friend made his for about $25. Me, not so fortunate.










In rep jail for you right now but I love that idea for the Cody test. The only thing I see is that it will not identify which bank is leaking. Or when one leaks is it so audible that it can be detected? A fitting in the IPC sensor holes sounds like it would be an oil bath through the HPOP lines too.
 
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