Starting issues
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Starting issues
Hey guys. Can you give me any insight? My 02 f250 w/ 7.3 won't start. Cranks and nothing. No smoke or anything. For the last year It has had a intermittent starting problem, where I would drive it for 15-20 mins. If I shut it off like I would if I was at the fuel pump and then restart it, it wouldn't. I'd have to wait 30 mins with a hood open and then it may start. Other times I would have to wait hours.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . Theres No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
I tried replacing the crank position sensor, the fuel pump and filter.I did all this in the Last 300 mile . Theres No change. After a week or two of sitting it won't start. What can I check and what can I try.
To add more info. Since I am not the original owner I pulled the computer that is located behind the ebrake to see if someone else had installed a chip, as I've heard that if that chip goes bad then the truck won't start. I disconnected that battery and pulled it. Negative on any chip. Put it all back together and tried again. No start. I borrowed a code reader tonight and pulled a P1280 code. I'm back to square one.
Last edited by Gary Staves; Feb 12, 2017 at 11:53 PM. Reason: Adding more info
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P1280 is for low icp pressure. Start by unplugging the icp sensor and see if it starts. If it doesn't, then check the basics; low oil level, hpop reservoir full of oil. Try to get a scanner that can read icp pressure while cranking. Possibly IPR fault.
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Last edited by Big Black Dually; Feb 13, 2017 at 02:47 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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Erik is right on. IPR/o-rings is likely your culprit. Failing to restart when hot, or stalling when it gets warmed up will usually point to the IPR and high pressure oil system. When the oil gets warmer and thinner, a faulty IPR or o-rings in the system can start bleeding off your high pressure oil and shut your truck down where it would run fine on thicker, cold oil.
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Ok. Thank you so much for the insight. Since I'm not so familiar with all the acronyms you all use, where does one find a list.
If your looking at the motor from the front, just to the right next to a big round loop you'd use to pull the motor with a chain, is a sensor with 3 wires. Is this the icp sensor to pull and unplug? If so I tried that and no start. It was filled wit some kind of oil and fluid. Is that bad? I can try the othe recomendations once I figure out the lingo.
Thank all of you for the help.
If your looking at the motor from the front, just to the right next to a big round loop you'd use to pull the motor with a chain, is a sensor with 3 wires. Is this the icp sensor to pull and unplug? If so I tried that and no start. It was filled wit some kind of oil and fluid. Is that bad? I can try the othe recomendations once I figure out the lingo.
Thank all of you for the help.
Last edited by Gary Staves; Feb 14, 2017 at 12:34 AM. Reason: Change a acronym
Veteran/Sheepdog
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From: Western AR
Yes, the ICP is right next to the engine hoist point (round loop bolted to the head) and behind the alternator. It should not have oil in the connector. You need a new one if there is oil in there. DO NOT buy anything other than Motorcraft for your engine sensors.
The IPR valve is below your fuel bowl and mounted to your High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). The o-rings on it can get soft and mushy over the years/miles, or it can get some build up inside that prevents it from closing all the way. If it can't close, you can't build high pressure and hold it. They can be bought new with solenoid ($200), rebuilt without solenoid ($75) or you can rebuild your own ($10). Another thing to consider is injector o-rings. They could be bleeding high pressure oil due to age and wear. Check your fuel filter for discoloration. If it is black, you have a High Pressure Oil (HPO) leak at the injector o-rings, and the injectors should be pulled and re-ringed.
The long-shot cause of your problem is your high pressure oil pump itself, but that is very rarely the problem on this scenario.
The IPR valve is below your fuel bowl and mounted to your High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). The o-rings on it can get soft and mushy over the years/miles, or it can get some build up inside that prevents it from closing all the way. If it can't close, you can't build high pressure and hold it. They can be bought new with solenoid ($200), rebuilt without solenoid ($75) or you can rebuild your own ($10). Another thing to consider is injector o-rings. They could be bleeding high pressure oil due to age and wear. Check your fuel filter for discoloration. If it is black, you have a High Pressure Oil (HPO) leak at the injector o-rings, and the injectors should be pulled and re-ringed.
The long-shot cause of your problem is your high pressure oil pump itself, but that is very rarely the problem on this scenario.
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Veteran/Sheepdog
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From: Western AR
You will need a 1 1/8" VERY deep socket to get the IPR out. At least 3 inches deep. When you pull it, all the oil in the HPOP reservoir will drain out if you don't plug the hole or drain the reservoir first.
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Ok. Thank you so much for the insight. Since I'm not so familiar with all the acronyms you all use, where does one find a list.
If your looking at the motor from the front, just to the right next to a big round loop you'd use to pull the motor with a chain, is a sensor with 3 wires. Is this the icp sensor to pull and unplug? If so I tried that and no start. It was filled wit some kind of oil and fluid. Is that bad? I can try the othe recomendations once I figure out the lingo.
Thank all of you for the help.
If your looking at the motor from the front, just to the right next to a big round loop you'd use to pull the motor with a chain, is a sensor with 3 wires. Is this the icp sensor to pull and unplug? If so I tried that and no start. It was filled wit some kind of oil and fluid. Is that bad? I can try the othe recomendations once I figure out the lingo.
Thank all of you for the help.
You do need a new icp sensor, but since the truck did not start with it unplugged, it most likely will still not start with a new one. You still have another problem, most likely IPR as Mike said.
Veteran/Sheepdog
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From: Western AR
Gary, there is no substitute for a computer or scanner that can read HPO pressures real time so you can see how much pressure the HPOP & HPO system are building while you try to start the truck. You could also buy an old fashioned manual gauge and plumb it into one of the fitting on the oil rail to see your pressures. You just need one that goes from 0-3000 psi. Same threads as your ICP sensor for the fitting to the oil rail on the head...heck you could even plug it in where the ICP goes.
You need 500 psi minimum to start the truck. Without that minimum pressure, the injectors will not "fire" and squirt diesel into your cylinders.
You need 500 psi minimum to start the truck. Without that minimum pressure, the injectors will not "fire" and squirt diesel into your cylinders.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Springfield, PA
Gary, as Mike said, having a scanner of some type is needed not only troubleshooting our trucks, but can really help you understand they work, and can lead to an early diagnosis when something is starting to go wrong. Many of us use a Bluetooth OBD2 plugin adapter and the Torque Pro app. Here's a good thread which describes how all that works.
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