Okay so correct me if im wrong, but the coolant flush wont actually help in lowering the EOT, I just need no flush it before installing a new cooler?


And im glad you're directing me towards the OEM cooler because its a lot cheaper than the kit that BPD sells, but why would I go back to OEM cooler if it has failed in the first place? Thank you once again for blessing me with your knowledge

 

Yes, the flush is so you don't re-clog your new cooler. if you have already flushed and moved to the cat coolant you can likely skip the full flush but given that you just bought it you have no idea whats been done to it.

It likely failed due to bad coolant maintenance or just using the ford gold coolant. Over time it leaves a residue coating the inside of the cooler that reduces it's efficiency.

I like to think of the cooler like the radiator... It is a maintenance part but you can get well over 100k miles on it if the rest of the system is maintained correctly. Think bout how long the payback is on the BPD cooler setup is.

Even their cheapest system is $1600 and that just makes the cooler easier to change. that means (just in parts) you could replace the oem cooler 4.5 times (400k+ miles) to break even (assuming a $350 cooler kit). And you still need proper maintenance as you would without it.

This calculation also changes if you are not working on your own vehicle.

The BPD cooler is an interesting design but unless you are driving a lot for a living the payback time is just too much for the cost.

At least that is my opinion and I think I have layed out my reasoning well enough.

87crewdually might have a different opinion and he is (I think) more experienced than me on the 6.0 stuff.

Richard

EDT: if you do flush the cooling system it's fairly critical that you pull the block plugs to do it right... search Fumoto valves on the forum and you will see solutions to make the flushing easier. and make sure you do a final flush with distilled water after everything runs clean.

 

Skimming through I agree with what is posted.
You could try back flushing but it more than likely just clog again or yield low to no results.
Read up in the Tech Folder above to better understand and of course any other questions put them out there. Someone will come by and answer.

 

Hey bismic, I've seen your name on a thread regarding dorman oil cooler and I wanted to ask you something. I just got a quote to replace oil cooler and install egr delete. The guy said he will also clean turbo veins, upgrade fuel pressure spring, HPOP reseal and clean the valley while he is in there. Everything for about $2400. The big question now is regarding the oil cooler. The guy said he throws everything away from the package except the oil cooler. Meaning that he doesn't use the seals from dorman. Do you recommend this change and also what do you think about the pricing of the job. Not mechanically inclined so i definitely have to get it professionally done. Thank you for blessing me with your knowledge!!

 

Some people have had insufficient cooling after installing Dorman oil coolers. The gasket issues are well known. Personally I would never install one.

 

Also, there have been a few reports of the cheap cooleres leaking and mixing oil and coolant

Richard

 

Alright sounds like we are in agreement. Much appreciated

 

Av58, tell your mechanic you'll agree to the price for the work IF he uses the OEM motorcraft oil cooler in the process. That would make the cost fair on both sides, if not slightly in your favor. The new motorcraft (ford) oil coolers are better than the factory part. The real problem is the location and design of the oil coolers on these trucks. I hate to brag about cummins, but they also used a HOAT coolant in that generation, like ford, and have very little oil cooler problems. The reason is better oil cooler design and more ease of replacement if a problem occurs.

As others have stated, properly flush your coolant and switch to the newer, less problematic coolant(s) BEFORE shelling out your hard earned cash for an oil cooler job. My '03 cummins ate a water pump and I used that opportunity to upgrade to Rotella ELC coolant. It cost me about $140 more when everything was said and done, but it was worth it. I did the work myself, saving a couple hundred bucks.

 

Something you're going to learn about these trucks is that you can't cut corners. You have to use OEM and you can skimp on maintenance.

I work on these trucks as a side gig and have seen some appalling things....