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The basic kit with one sensor is about $350. I doubt I'd buy one for just one truck, but when spread out over three trucks, it's only $120 each..
This is pure genius! I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. If I buy two more trucks, all necessary tools are 1/3 the price. Can't wait to tell the wife.
This is pure genius! I don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. If I buy two more trucks, all necessary tools are 1/3 the price. Can't wait to tell the wife.
it does seem to be pretty solid logic. I cant find any holes in it.
I bought summit racings version of the AEM wideband gauge. Saves time and gas. I wired a cig lighter plug on the power side of the harness and run harness out window then keep the exhaust port plugged when i'm done.
I'm going to be watching to see what you come up with Papa. I'm entertaining either a switch to a auto overdrive and a fitech system or other. I love driving my truck but the trips to gas stations needs to slow down some.
I'll find one on sale, then I can tell the wife how much money I saved...
They will pay for themselves fairly quickly if you take roadtrips of any length. The fuel $$ savings is nice of course but I was mainly trying to increase the range on a tank of juice more than anything. I knew they had to be capable of respectable mileage if tuned correctly.
The factory advance curve needs tuning inside the distributor, that helps quite a bit too especially vacuum advance. The Y block in my truck likes plenty of ignition timing advance over stock spec and will tolerate crappy fuel, but any motor will benefit from this. At highway cruise shoot for around 16 to 1 AFR and check for evidence of lean surge or excessive temperatures. Wide open throttle mixture around 12.5 AFR. Idle AFR doesn't matter too much, wherever it idles best but around stoich (14.7) will help it to run cooler at idle.
A wideband can help, but can also lie. The sensor will only tell you how much O2 is in the exhaust vs atmosphere. If you have a misfire or exhaust leak before the sensor you will have extra O2 in the exhaust stream which will make it look like you have a lean mixture. It does not tell you how complete a burn you are getting. Although out of reach of most enthusiasts, a 5 gas analyzer is a much better way of adjusting a carb. These machines measure O2, CO2, NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. If you are interested in learning more about tuning with a 5 gas, find a copy of the latest Hotrod, issue 0617 with the Shelby on the cover, and turn to the Hotrod to the Rescue section.
That being said, a wideband is way better than guessing.
A misfire will cause an artificial lean reading, that's one reason why it's so important that the ignition is squared away before trying to tune a carburetor. Exhaust leaks before the sensor will cause the same issue.
Plug reading is a lot more involved than most people think, can determine a lot, but it also takes a lot of experience. A wideband sensor is the way to go these days because the cost has come down so much, and most people didn't start out reading plugs. Modern gasoline doesn't "color" the way it used to either.
Knowing you are rich or lean doesn't mean squat if you don't know how to change it.
If you don't have a pin vice, 10-32, 8-32, 6-32 set screws, 1-80 drill index, and the knowledge of what changing a PVCR, TSR, IAB, MAB, and emulsion restrictions does, than seeing you are off in certain places doesn't really matter.
There is more to a carburetor fuel curve than jets and idle screws.
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