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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #31  
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00Dave
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Thanks Joe! I will be hitting the store today for the parts. After thinking about it, I kind of think it was sticking the week before. I had that wobble when first driving (maybe 2 miles), but then it stopped. Worked just fine after that. But this time it was stuck for good. I had to pry, use the clamps, and hit the thing with a hammer just to get it off.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 02:25 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 00Dave
Thanks Joe! I will be hitting the store today for the parts. After thinking about it, I kind of think it was sticking the week before. I had that wobble when first driving (maybe 2 miles), but then it stopped. Worked just fine after that. But this time it was stuck for good. I had to pry, use the clamps, and hit the thing with a hammer just to get it off.
With that info I'd have been quicker to jump in the stuck caliper band wagon.

Forgot to mention. When you get the new caliper, pull the slide pins apart and make sure they are greased properly. Should be lightly greased with a high temp (silicone?) grease. Should be enough grease to make things slide nice, but not enough to cause suction.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2017 | 11:06 PM
  #33  
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New caliper on. Pins greased lightly. Just have to bleed now. Just a note, once the old caliper was removed, I put the c-clamps on and tried to compress the pistons. No go. They didn't compress at all. Looks like problem solved, fingers crossed.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 07:30 AM
  #34  
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So just to follow up and close out this issue hopefully. I replaced the driver side front caliper. After bleeding the system i went for a little drive. So far so good. It actually feels like the truck is driving a little different. Like a little more power. Kind of made me wonder how long this thing has been dragging. Anyway, I did use the existing pads and rotor, with no issues at this time. Lastly, thanks to all who provided feedback and helped with troubleshooting and decisions. I know I don't contribute as much as several of you all but I do try to help out when it is an issue I have experienced. I am very grateful to have cyber friends like all of you.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #35  
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Thanks for the follow up, congrats on the fix.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2017 | 08:50 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by 00Dave
So just to follow up and close out this issue hopefully. I replaced the driver side front caliper. After bleeding the system i went for a little drive. So far so good. It actually feels like the truck is driving a little different. Like a little more power. Kind of made me wonder how long this thing has been dragging. Anyway, I did use the existing pads and rotor, with no issues at this time. Lastly, thanks to all who provided feedback and helped with troubleshooting and decisions. I know I don't contribute as much as several of you all but I do try to help out when it is an issue I have experienced. I am very grateful to have cyber friends like all of you.
Wow that is exactly what I did to my truck last fall. Isn't it awesome being house poor!? Only difference in what we did is that my pads and rotors we're so glazed over that I actually had them turned (again, not my style) and I took the belt sander to the brake pads to chew the glaze off and give me something viable. Good temporary fix but it's failing fast.

Good luck with the truck, and remodeling. I bet she'll get you through the rough times.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 09:53 PM
  #37  
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From: South Carolina
When I replace pads, I always remove the top of the fluid container. Place a rag underneath for spill.
No need to loosen the bleeder.
Using the C clamp, the gentle movement of the piston is normal, extreme pressure and little or no movement , is a frozen/bad caliper.
 
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