When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Interesting that yours and mine, both original equipment, don't have the black bushing but aftermarket does. Not always, but sometime, aftermarket does improve a part if there was a known flaw. Maybe this falls into that category? Still gonna think a bit (on my porch with some thinking juice) and see what I might have that could mimic that bushing. Will let y'all know once I've tried the bushing (or run out of juice)
Would you know if a manual regulator would have that stop?
I ask because both of mine are out of the doors and could dig them out to look at them if it would help.
Dave - - - -
A manual window regular is different of course, it has a shaft whereas the power window regulator has a flange for the motor to bolt to.
But I don't know if the manual one has a stop button (I would assume so else you might crank the window too low and disengage the teeth).
Looks like the aftermarket bushing is larger then the stock steel one. Maybe the smaller steel one actually goes past "TDC' for a lack of a better term, and the motor can't push the window up once the arm passes 3 O'clock position.
Bigger bushing keeps it above 3 O'clock??????
The regulator appears to be original, the motor however, is a replacement installed by the previous owner. I've owned the truck for around 7 years and it wasn't until the last year or so that the window would hang up when all the way down.
Worth noting is that the motor does not spin or make a sound like it's trying to spin when the window is stuck and me reaching in to try and assist the motor by pulling up on the glass does nothing. It's stuck!
When removing the motor, nothing seems to be bound up or anything, it simply falls away from the regulator easily.
I've tried spinning the motor a 1/4 to half revolution before remounting, thinking it may have a dead spot on the armature . . . Doesn't make a difference.
Related to post #10:
DOAZ-62434A24-B .. Nylon Power Window Motor Gear / Available from Ford and auto parts stores.
1970/89 myriad FoMoCo vehicles.
This gear is notorious for striping its teeth. When this occurs, the window will go down, but will not come back up.
Those nylon bushings (plugs)https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-74410/overview/ that go between the pwr window motor's drive gear and its driven gear have a been a problem for me in the past. I must have installed ten sets by now, but have never seen the gear itself wear out (maybe I've been lucky). But I keep a set of those bushings in my parts stock just in case.
OP said his window works fine as long as it doesn't go full down - so it makes me think something is catching on the glass or regulator mechanism.
Those nylon bushings (plugs)https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-74410/overview/ that go between the pwr window motor's drive gear and its driven gear have a been a problem for me in the past. Join the club, have been a POS since 1965!
I must have installed ten sets by now, but have never seen the gear itself wear out (maybe I've been lucky). But I keep a set of those bushings in my parts stock just in case.
The bushings come with the P/W motor gear as does the grease. There are two different gear kits: 1965/69 & 1970/89.
Those nylon bushings plugs that go between the pwr window motor's drive gear and its driven gear have a been a problem for me in the past. I must have installed ten sets by now, but have never seen the gear itself wear out (maybe I've been lucky). But I keep a set of those bushings in my parts stock just in case.
OP said his window works fine as long as it doesn't go full down - so it makes me think something is catching on the glass or regulator mechanism.
Yea, hate those things. The last fix I did was using 3/8 nuts with two stacked(6 total per side) in place of the nylon things. Over 10 years and no more issues. My friend did his truck probly 15~18 years ago and still have the original gears in his window motors!
Just a hour ago I rolled down the passenger window too far and jammed it up. This time I pressed in on the door and got the window up with out the neanderthal punching/shacking/ cussing of the past. Going to have to find out why the door bows out when the window bottoms out. Looking at the photos, maybe that stop post is missing a collar bushing......
Yesterday I put a mic on that metal pin in my pic. Measured .4935" I found a nylon bushing in my bag of tricks. 1/2" thick, 5/8" OD but only a 1/4" hole. Progressively worked my way up to a 27/64" bit (.421875"). Thought that might be enough to slide over the metal pin . . Nope! Figured I needed to soften the bushing up a bit, so placed in a pot of boiling water for an hour thinking it might add some elasticity and I'd be able to slide it right on . . . Strike two!! Nylon doesn't seem to get much more pliable with heat.
Thought about reaming out the center a bit so out came my Dremel with a rasp bit. Worked it out to .4775" thinking it should go on now!
Strike three!
Finally realized that even if I got it to slide on, I'm still only picking up a 1/6 th of an inch in diameter, so looking for something that maybe has an OD of .75" or so and I'll try again.
I decided to get back into fiddling around with the stop pin bumper bushing the other day by digging around in the Hillman drawers at Lowes. I found three things that looked promising.
On the left is a rubber grommet with an O.D. Of .75 thinking that having a soft bumper might not be a bad thing. On the right is a nylon bushing that is big enough to shape as needed and in the middle is the bushing that I was playing around with the other day. I found a black pipe cap that fit snugly over the nylon bushing and gave me an O.D. Of .75. Pressed this setup over the metal pin on the regulator and tried the window a few times.
Now I'm not going to claim that it's fixed for good but it certainly is fixed for now!
I'll be back later when/ if it fails
