Every time that the passenger window is lowered completely, it won't go back up. If I lower to any spot other than full down, the glass will raise the way it should.
If I forget to stop it just short of completely down, I have to remove the panel and unbolt the motor, raise the glass somewhat and reinstall the motor. Works flawlessly unless I forget again! Not a big deal, just getting tired of getting to the store and not being able to secure the vehicle.
I can't see the interaction between the motor gear and the regulator gear but feeling around back there it seems to mesh properly. No flat spots, missing teeth, etc..

Thoughts?

 

I think your going to need to remove the motor and regulator for a closer inspection.
Make sure the window isn't catching on the dew strip and that the rubber channel is smooth and intact, and that the window channel strip/frame is correctly positioned and bolted down tight.

 

This sounds like the the body or arm are not in the correct alignment. I have run into this in other vehicles. Have you replaced the arm in the past yourself or is this all original from the factory. If you did it I would drill out the rivots and then try again. With one rivot in and a screwdriver holding a second hole, test the operation. When good add another rivot. and so on. I believe there are three for this.

 

On the subject of power window performance - are you guys lubing the window tracks with anything other than silicon spray?

Whenever I lube the tracks, the window definitely go up and down faster. But the spray lube seems to wear off fast.

Does anyone have a better lube/idea?

 

The regulator appears to be original, the motor however, is a replacement installed by the previous owner. I've owned the truck for around 7 years and it wasn't until the last year or so that the window would hang up when all the way down.
Worth noting is that the motor does not spin or make a sound like it's trying to spin when the window is stuck and me reaching in to try and assist the motor by pulling up on the glass does nothing. It's stuck!
When removing the motor, nothing seems to be bound up or anything, it simply falls away from the regulator easily.
I've tried spinning the motor a 1/4 to half revolution before remounting, thinking it may have a dread spot on the armature . . . Doesn't make a difference.

 

I have the same issue with my 89 F250. Watch the door when you bottom out the window. It will bow out and that will cause the motor/regulator to jam up under that load of the door inside bowing.

So far I haven't looked into how to fix it(I don't roll down that window all the way). If it does jam up, I hit that area while pressing the up button and that will get it back up.

 

Thanks Eddie, I'll try that method of repair as it might be faster although it happens so often that I can R&R the motor in less than 3 min. I even carry a small socket in the glovebox and a precut piece of 1x2 to support the window in the up position at all times.
And yes, I'm real good about never putting the window all the way down, but not real good about telling passengers to leave the window buttons alone!

I'm thinking it's got to be a geometry thing and am beginning to suspect the nylon glides that run in the track that is attached to the glass. Might be that they're showing some age?
Also thought about installing some sort of stop to prevent the glass from full travel down. I don't really like that idea too much though as it wouldn't be the way it's supposed to be. Bandaid vs cure.

 

On my 89 F250, I replaced all the glass runners, regulator(from a working truck that did not have the issue) and still had the issue.

After watching the window going down and bottoming out I noticed the inside door skin bows out. I think that bowing effect is jamming up the regulator. I don't know if there are any stops that keeps the window from bottoming out, I have to take my door apart to see(that's lowest on the list) if there are any.

 

On the early models, the regulator has a built in stop (sort of a welded-on button), so when the motor moves the window regulator arm to fully lowered position, the regulator hits this stop and the motor "torques out" (stops).

 

Nylon P/W gear is replaceable by itself (available from Ford & auto parts stores), when it strips, the window will go down, but will not go all the way up.

Nylon window roller fits onto the stud of the regulator, then into the window channel the glass is adhered to.

When the roller breaks, the window either binds up or falls down to the bottom of the door.

 

On a related note. I have an AC Delco passenger side pw regulator if you need one, new in box. It fits an 86 F-150 w/5.0L. I'll let go real cheap. I thought I needed it & it turned out being a switch/wiring issue that I haven't had time to fix yet. If anyone needs one please let me know. Thanks!

 

CB - I'm not aware of a built in stop, but always wondered if there was one, and if not, then maybe I should make one. I'll look a little closer today

ND - Thats my suspicion, going to play around with it some more to see what's going on in there.

BD - thanks for the offer, will be in touch if I find that mine is in need of replacement.

 

It looks like this (although stop button may be slightly different. Mine is a solid button).

 

It's been raining a bunch the last couple of days here in the Southeast, so was able to get some shop time in. Took a picture of my regulator and the good news is, I have a stop pin. Bad news is, if you compare mine to the example that Country Bumpkin provided, it appears that I'm missing the black bushing that goes on the stop pin. Could it be that the little bit of extra travel is enough to allow the regulator to go too far and bind up?
Thoughts? I'm putting on my thinking cap to come up with a way to replicate that bushing.

 

Mine is stock (original) and I don't have the black button (unless the black part on mine broke off over the years). But I think that is just the button style that the aftermarket manufacturer used.
Sounds, like whatever the problem is - it is still waiting to be discovered.