Bleeding brakes and ABS?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 824
Likes: 179
Bleeding brakes and ABS?
I recall reading that some special tool was needed due to the ABS in order to properly bleed the brakes. Is that correct? Or can I just bleed the brakes the standard way. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Crack brake bleeders one at a time and let about a pint gravity bleed out, repeat from RR LR RF LF. Then bleed as normal, slow steady pumps. If i recall the only time the computer has to be hooked up to the abs circuit diring bleeding is if the abs pump has been replaced
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
I have abs and didn't use a special tool and if you don't have help to bleed them do this.. I think this gets better result than the old two man bleed job anyways...
Start with the caliper furthest from the master and work closer to it. Mine was right rear left rear right front left front, Get yourself a clear hose that fits your bleeder a water bottle cut a hole in the cap put the hose in through the cap and put a zip tie around the hose just under the cap and screw it on the bottle so it don't pull out. Fill the bottle up with some brake fluid so that the end of the hose is completely submerged in the fluid. Put it on the nipple open the valve pump your brakes shot 3-5 times and use your phone to take a video of the air that comes out of the lines and pump til your video shows no more air the same process for each caliper. Just did mine today by myself. The most important thing is to make sure the hose inside the bottle is under the fluid so it doesn't suck air back in
Start with the caliper furthest from the master and work closer to it. Mine was right rear left rear right front left front, Get yourself a clear hose that fits your bleeder a water bottle cut a hole in the cap put the hose in through the cap and put a zip tie around the hose just under the cap and screw it on the bottle so it don't pull out. Fill the bottle up with some brake fluid so that the end of the hose is completely submerged in the fluid. Put it on the nipple open the valve pump your brakes shot 3-5 times and use your phone to take a video of the air that comes out of the lines and pump til your video shows no more air the same process for each caliper. Just did mine today by myself. The most important thing is to make sure the hose inside the bottle is under the fluid so it doesn't suck air back in
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
If your just changing fluid i would do a gravity bleed at all 4 wheels, run half a qt through the RR bleeder, close RR bleeder, crack LR bleeder and gravity bleed about half a pint, close LR bleeder, crack RF bleeder and gravity bleed a pint through it, close RF bleeder, crack LF bleeder and gravity bleed a half of a pint through it, close LF bleeder. Pump brake pedal until firm, proceed with bleeding from RR LR RF LF with your speed bleeders, done, i would not drain the system dry. Doing the above will be more than sufficient to ensure new brake fluid in the system
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 24
You should only need an IDS type scanner to do a "service bleed" if you now have air in the ABS module, if not just make sure the master cylinder does not run out of fluid and you should be fine, either gravity or pressure bleeding will work just fine.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 8,446
Likes: 70
From: South Jersey
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,543
Likes: 0
I have abs and didn't use a special tool and if you don't have help to bleed them do this.. I think this gets better result than the old two man bleed job anyways...
Start with the caliper furthest from the master and work closer to it. Mine was right rear left rear right front left front, Get yourself a clear hose that fits your bleeder a water bottle cut a hole in the cap put the hose in through the cap and put a zip tie around the hose just under the cap and screw it on the bottle so it don't pull out. Fill the bottle up with some brake fluid so that the end of the hose is completely submerged in the fluid. Put it on the nipple open the valve pump your brakes shot 3-5 times and use your phone to take a video of the air that comes out of the lines and pump til your video shows no more air the same process for each caliper. Just did mine today by myself. The most important thing is to make sure the hose inside the bottle is under the fluid so it doesn't suck air back in
Start with the caliper furthest from the master and work closer to it. Mine was right rear left rear right front left front, Get yourself a clear hose that fits your bleeder a water bottle cut a hole in the cap put the hose in through the cap and put a zip tie around the hose just under the cap and screw it on the bottle so it don't pull out. Fill the bottle up with some brake fluid so that the end of the hose is completely submerged in the fluid. Put it on the nipple open the valve pump your brakes shot 3-5 times and use your phone to take a video of the air that comes out of the lines and pump til your video shows no more air the same process for each caliper. Just did mine today by myself. The most important thing is to make sure the hose inside the bottle is under the fluid so it doesn't suck air back in
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 780
Likes: 248
I have a Motive Power pressure bleeder which was life changing when it comes to this PITA job if you replace lines or calipers, especially considering the $59 it cost.
Put a quart of fluid in it, attach it to the master cyl and pump it up to about 15 psi. Bleed each caliper starting the furthest away from the master cyl in approximately 10 minutes without having anyone pump the brakes or running back and forth to make sure you don't run low on fluid.
Put a quart of fluid in it, attach it to the master cyl and pump it up to about 15 psi. Bleed each caliper starting the furthest away from the master cyl in approximately 10 minutes without having anyone pump the brakes or running back and forth to make sure you don't run low on fluid.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 113
I use a vacuum bleeder and the one issue I see everytime is air does leak through the threads of the bleeder when in operation. For those using a bottle with fluid the same effect should happen there also. As the suction tries to pull the fluid back up into the caliper from the bottle air will leak through threads on bleeder valve. I would suggest having someone slowly press the pedal once you are done and crack the bleeder and then close while pedal is still being pushed. That will take out any remaining remnants of air in the caliper.
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
My vac source is an old laboratory vacuum pump, manual switch, and I close the bleeder before turning off the pump.
Neat thing: I have a glass catch jar before the pump. When it has some old fluid in the jar I plug the line and run it to zero PSI. and watch it "boil" (foam).
I'm guessing the boil is the water in the brake fluid as eventually the foaming stops.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,804
Likes: 113
I vac evac also.
My vac source is an old laboratory vacuum pump, manual switch, and I close the bleeder before turning off the pump.
Neat thing: I have a glass catch jar before the pump. When it has some old fluid in the jar I plug the line and run it to zero PSI. and watch it "boil" (foam).
I'm guessing the boil is the water in the brake fluid as eventually the foaming stops.
My vac source is an old laboratory vacuum pump, manual switch, and I close the bleeder before turning off the pump.
Neat thing: I have a glass catch jar before the pump. When it has some old fluid in the jar I plug the line and run it to zero PSI. and watch it "boil" (foam).
I'm guessing the boil is the water in the brake fluid as eventually the foaming stops.
At least you got to see how moisture would be removed from a contaminates air conditioning system on vacuum.
New User
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
I have a Motive Power pressure bleeder which was life changing when it comes to this PITA job if you replace lines or calipers, especially considering the $59 it cost.
Put a quart of fluid in it, attach it to the master cyl and pump it up to about 15 psi. Bleed each caliper starting the furthest away from the master cyl in approximately 10 minutes without having anyone pump the brakes or running back and forth to make sure you don't run low on fluid.
Put a quart of fluid in it, attach it to the master cyl and pump it up to about 15 psi. Bleed each caliper starting the furthest away from the master cyl in approximately 10 minutes without having anyone pump the brakes or running back and forth to make sure you don't run low on fluid.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Syncrowave
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
9
Apr 7, 2017 05:43 PM
sigtauenus
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
4
May 31, 2004 03:38 PM
