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I had a lengthy conversation with a pro tuner who builds and tunes racing engines. He was very kind and polite.
He told me he's NEVER heard of anything like what is happening to me but made a few points that I feel compelled to share.
1. A lean mixture will not cause PING. Ping is a result of timing only. If the mixture leans out the power will just "Fall Off" as he stated.
2. If the engine accelerates smoothly and doesn't "Surge" or hesitate or go flat he seriously doubts there is an issue with the distributor itself like something binding.
3. At cruising speed while adding throttle, the engine is experiencing a steady load increase that WOT doesn't need to handle.
4. When using WOT as the criteria used for setting max initial timing, the engine RPM can actually get through the range of maximum torque so quickly that ping might not be noticed without sophisticated test equipment.
5. Knowing that the fuel in Iowa IS JUNK for performance engines he suspects the difference is the OCTANE. I told him I'm running 91 octane with no ethanol. The very best available here.
Conclusion 4/3/2017
He suggested that I add a quality octane booster and try again.
It does not ping at WOT with the vacuum advance unit (VAU) disconnected and plugged. This engine LOVES the timing. It freeking roars. It has 20 degrees mechanical with 11 degrees Initial timing which makes it 31.
That's slightly on the low side actually. 34, 36, 38, or more, depending on compression or other factors, is typical for V8. That's with pump gas. Ethanol laced, even.
I have the vacuum advance unit cranked down as far as it goes. I'm figuring that the VAU even with it cranked down all the way is STILL allowing too much advance at mid throttle.
There's no need to guess. For God's sake man, Run it up with a light and see what it's doing.
Tedster... I simply refuse to restrict the base timing to this monster. All I want is a few more for cruising. At WOT the vacuum unit is seeing almost zero vacuum and retarding the timing would make WOT even less powerful.
I didn't suggest you restrict or retard anything beyond actual spec, but, something isn't adjusted correctly, or measured properly, defective, whatever the case. So you have some kind an indicating error versus actual. See where I'm goin' with that?
Classic..."Maybe the mechanism inside the can is broken. I would take the can off and see if the arm is physically being limited when you back out the adjusting screw just by working it in and out manually." I need to find out a way to get this think down further in advancing. RESEARCH Thank goodness for the internet. It's not just for pictures of pretty girls. LOL That's what I'm thinking. __________________ Thanks. Until I figure this out the vacuum advance unit stays unplugged.
Until you measure what the curve is doing you're just guessing. Maybe get the pro tuner guy to fix it for you, since you can't seem to be bothered to perform any of the simple tests recommended by anyone here.
I am broke.
I do not have a timing lite that reads out timing as I have it running.
Old school..just a light.
Bill
You can actually map out your timing curve even if you don't have a dial style timing light. Using a flexible tape measure, see what the distance is from TDC and 10* on the damper. Then keep marking it off, ever 5* around until 50-60* is marked on the balancer. Use a pencil if you have to or some kind of white paint marker for something a bit more lasting. They make stick on timing tape, but a pencil will also do the trick.
Start truck and idle. Write down what the timing is. Rev it to 1500 rpm and read it again off your marks. Go to 2000 rpm and do it again. Repeat til you get to 3500 rpm or so(as high as you want, it doesn't matter). Now look at the numbers you wrote down. This is the timing curve and you can now play with things and see how you can change it. No real cost involved, just some time on a Saturday afternoon.
sounds like your carb is over advancing the timing at mid throttle, mine did the same thing but it just bogged down. make sure you distributers vacume advance is connected to the port right above the throttle bladed and make sure it gets no vacume at idle.
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