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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 03:52 PM
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I have a 2003 F350 5.4L 4R100 4x4. I started the truck today because it hadn't been started in a few weeks. It had a growling under the hood, but I didn't hear it until I climbed out of the cab. I went to shut the truck off and the noise stopped...truck was running fine. I shut it off to try to restart it and I got nothing, no click or anything. I put a meter on the battery, it was at 12.23V I had my son hit the key and it went ti 11.88V but no clicking or anything. I checked the 5 ignition fuses under the dash, they're all good. Is there any fuses or relays under the hood I should check before I pull the starter and have it tested? I also see this newer type truck doesn't have the fender solenoid unless they moved it to another location. Are there any fusible links I should be looking at? My newest experience is the 1995 5.8L engine so I'm kinda working on a learn as you go with this truck. Thanks for any help.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 04:29 PM
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Charge the battery up thorough. 12.2 is pretty low. Clean ground and cable connections. Battery may be sulfated/old?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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I'm far from an expert, but sometimes that's not a bad thing..lol.....maybe disconnect the batteries, tap the starter (possibly locked up) reconnect and try again. Had an old GMC that needed a tap once in a while.....hope it helps.. if not go to the screw driver start to see if it engages at that end....if not, then loosen the starter tap it and see what happens....not technical, just old fixes for simple issues.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 07:46 PM
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Well, charged battery up, made no difference. Started pulling cables apart and cleaning them. Got down to the starter, corroded terminals, snapped the small terminal off. Looks like It's going to be a new starter anyway. Sprayed PB blaster on the starter bolts and still couldn't budge them, I'm afraid they're either going to snap or if the bolts come out, they'll bring the threads from the bell housing with them. I'll leave it sit overnight to soak and try again tomorrow. The only option I have if they don't come out is either trying to heat them with a torch or towing it to the shop and let them deal with it.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2017 | 12:37 PM
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Try an impact wrench if you can get one in there maybe with an extension and u-joint if you can get one close, sometimes helps with stuck bolts.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2017 | 11:57 AM
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Well I have all the new parts ready to go back on the truck, but I can't get those darn starter bolts to move, I finally gave up and called the shop, they're sending a tow truck this afternoon, told them as long as they're in there, go ahead and change the u-joint on the front drive shaft. I can see a $500 labor bill coming at me now, but I guess it saves me from rolling around on the ground.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2017 | 08:03 AM
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The shop called and said they had to cut the starter off of the truck then heat the trans to get the bolts backed out. They replaced the starter and that part is good now. They went after the U-Joint, he said there is so much rust under there that he can barley tell where the rust stops and the bolt heads begin. He managed to get the front U-joint out and replaced, he said the only way he could get the shaft bolted back in was to lower the truck off the lift back to the floor in the rest position. He said the slip joint has seized and cannot move in or out. He suggests not driving the truck but to cut the front drive shaft out and replace it. He thinks if too many bumps are hit the front shaft will take out either the transfer case or the front pinion. What are some suggestions? Should I go for new or try to get the slip joint moving? Mind you, this is a former plow truck, lotta rust on the frame but not rotted, but the inside of the bed and the lower doors are rusted through. The interior is near mint condition. 135K on the drive train runs great, but the mechanic suggested I sell it or junk it because he had such a hard time getting to the rusted bolts.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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After picking up my truck last night, Paying the $399.20 for the tow, starter install and U-Joint install. I think it was a fair price for having to torch bolts, re-chase threads and having to pay for new starter bolts. The mechanic, isn't used to out midwest trucks, he's used to cleaner, not so much rust southern trucks...LOL

I'm keeping my truck, other than some rusted out body work and a little wandering in the steering, it's a good solid running vehicle.
 
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