I've got the solid side window kit and as my doors have nothing in them, and I already cut the 2 spots that need to be cut and got the mirror nut removed, I bought new window regulators, should these be put in 1st before I start the process? Also the channel that runs up the front of the door where I removed that captive nut, does the dog leg get bolted in or just "glued in" ?
Once the windows are in and the doors put back on I am about done!!!!
Thx in advance, Don

 

Good questions Don. I always get the channels and felts sorted before I move on to the regulators, it is much easier to ensure that the glass moves without binding before hooking up the regulator. As for the channel, I have used the screws provided in the kit (not a big fan), I have used structural adhesive, and the best option for me has been welding. This may not be an option for those who have doors that are already painted but it is very clean and a very secure method to hold the channel in place. Here are a couple of pics of a 54 that I am working on. I just did the same treatment on my 40 Ford coupe. As you will find, the channel fits snugly in the door window opening, so snugly that it wants to pop in behind the door metal. Welding keeps it flush right where it needs to be.

 

Great pics - didn't realize that the new channel was supposed to sit flush like that. Not to highjack the thread, but what do you do if the channel is too tight to fit in the opening? As you indicated, mine pops in behind the door metal.

 

Some kits come with wooden blocks that fit into the door channel that will hold the window glass channel at the proper distance. I believe that the Midfifty kits use rubber spacers to hold the window channel out and keep it from snapping in behind the door metal. The spacers work great to place the window channel at the proper location, the job of holding it there is best done with a few weld beads. I have used pieces of steel bar in place of the rubber blocks and then applied structural adhesive to hold it all in place but I did not feel comfortable using the adhesive with the rubber blocks. If you are very careful you can push the window channel into the door slot to where the edge is flush and weld it in place without the need for spacers but it takes a light touch.

 

Thanks. Charlie I will play with it today and see where I land up at the end of the day, don't think welding is a good option for me at this point, doors are painted..
Thx for the info & the pics

 

That's a great tip for when I do mine. Thanks

 

Didn't buy a kit because my doors have been chopped for the chopped top. What size are the spacer blocks? I'm guessing around 1/2" if I'm measuring correctly.

Really wished the original builder had done the windows prior to paint. The welded version looks so clean. I'm doing a great job of chipping paint trying to fit these things! Instead of screws, would a couple pop rivets work to hold the channels and felt in place? Or what type of structural adhesive do you recommend?

 

CharlieLed is that flat or curved glass and do you have any pics of how you modified the door if it's flat . Sorry to hijack .

 

This door has the flat glass...I did not take any pics during the modification of the door, it was a tedious welding job and I was in no mood to document it. As for anchoring the window glass channel, I have used rivets but I have a personal disdain for fasteners showing through on the door jamb. I spend a lot of time smoothing out the jambs so to plop a screw head or pop rivet head in the middle of smoothed out panel doesn't work for me.

 

Ok thanks CharliedLed I am assuming that the way to do it is to leave the existing flat glass part of the door as is and rework the vent area to match .

 

I'm going to make the spacers out of steel or aluminum. Any recommendation on the structural adhesive?
As far as the felt that goes in the channel, do you use silicone?

 

I use 3M 08115 adhesive. As for the felt I like to bend it to fit precisely and use the tabs in the glass channels to hold the ends firmly in place. Once that is done then the adhesive used in the rest of the channel is not as critical. I actually made a tool to bend the channel, if you haven't played with this stuff it is worth the time to understand how it is made before you attempt to form it, especially if it has the stainless steel bead.

 

Thanks for sharing your tips! I'll see if the local auto body supply store carries that 3M panel adhesive. The only thing I have currently Gorilla Glue and maybe some old JB Weld.
Re felt: Maybe I'm calling it the wrong thing. I meant the large U shaped that gets inserted into the metal channel.