The window tracks allowing the windows to roll up and down in my 64 are worn out and due to the missing felt, rattle horribly when rolled down in the doors. When they are up, the windows dont rattle nearly as much and wedging a piece of cardboard between the glass and the track has been a temporary fix during the colder season but with a wave of warm weather on the way, I need a better fix. I realise the tracks will eventually need replacement to fully solve the problem but in the meantime, anyone have any tricks to solve my rattle?

 

I bought some household weatherstipping at WallyWorld and put it in my tracks to keep the window tight. It was some small stuff on a roll and got me through until this weekend. I just got the last peices I needed to replace every bit of the wore out stock stuff!!! I am installing the new this weekend.


On a side note, I need to replace my weatherstripping on my doors as there is a lack of any. Since I do not have any on it at all right now, will it cause my doors to appear loose when shut? They vibrate(more like bounce) around.

 

You can go to any automotive glass shop. They usually have or can get the in-channel weatherstrips---the ones that fit vertically on the division bar between the vent window and the door, and the ones that run up from the rear of the inside of the door and curve over the top of the door glass. They have or can also get the cat whiskers (inside/outside of the door glass) too. Replacing those will solve the rattling side windows. Don't let it go too long, Sooner or later you'll slam the door, the glass will crack...been there...done that.


Something else to watch out for. There's is a plastic window roller that goes between the regulator and the window channel...they break all the time..when that happens the window will drop down inside the door. Cranking the handle backwards first, then forward..might bring the glass back up. Replace them.

C0AB-6423240-B .. Window Roller

 

How did you mount it? On either side of the track or on the end? Thanks for the reply

 

The division bar is a press fit...once in---the window keeps it in place. The in channel w/strip that runs up the back of the door and over the top is also a press fit..there may be a couple of clips, but the glass shop will prolly have them. NOTE: This in channel weatherstrip comes as a straight piece, y'all have to bend it where the door curves..it's not that hard...I did it, and I can barely change a house light bulb! The cat whiskers ARE held in with clips...7 or so to each whisker. The clip is pretty unversal, so the glass shops will have them. To install the cat whiskers, the glass channel has to be disconnected from the regulator, so it drops below the leading edge of the door.



Glass shops will install all this stuff, too.


Anything molded rubber...like around the doors, and vent glass rubber---you'll have to check with our sponsors. The stuff prolly isn't available from Ford any longer..here's the door weatherstrips, and the vent rubbers.

C1TZ-8121448-A.. right vent glass rubber seal
C1TZ-8121449-A .. left vent glass rubber seal

C1TZ-8120530-A .. right door outer w/strip
C1TZ-8120531-A .. left door outer w/strip

 

Dennis Carpenter (stuff sold thru this site I believe) repros all that stuff. You can buy it in a kit with the division bar that saves a few bucks over purchasing seperately.

 

To what its worth; I wrote alittle step by step sequence on installing the whole window kit as mention by Number Dummy.
Last Thursday; I successfully installed complete new parts minus door glass and vent glass into my 65 F100 doors. The process took about two hours once we figure out an easy way; I say we because; I believe it’s a two-person task due to alignment and working with glass. We attempted to follow a step by step illustration from a DC catalog; but found out some steps where easier doing it in the following manner; however every situation is different and I removed my old parts and glass about 14 months prior to reinstalling them, so we where little rusty from past removal.
I'll give a brief summary of some key issue’s to make removal of old parts a bit easier first. After all handles, door trim, access panel and armrest are removed. Release the door glass from the regulator arm; and place glass in the bottom of the door for removal further on during the process. Remove the regulator mechanism first (makes removal of the division bar easier). Note: Division bar are a tight fit to remove and install; we rotated them 180 degrees to remove (turn the lower mounting bracket that bolts to the top of the regulator towards the outside door skin during removal and install thru the access panel hole.
Once the regulator, division bar and door glass run are removed; we then removed the anti-rattlers, vent window & door glass; seem easier in this manner. Now your ready to install new parts.

INSTALLATION
We replaced all parts with new rubber seals, division bars etc, so my door frames where just a shell for this installation procedure.

1). Division Bar: Install it at about a 45-degree angle; turned 180 degrees opposite the way it mounts thru the access panel. Leaving it roughly at the same position laying at 45 degrees inside the door panel.

2). Regulator Mechanism: Install thru access panel; we attach loosely with four screws around the window crank stud (initially).

* Prior to installing door glass, we had to form the door glass run to the window glass, recommend holding down the door glass run on top of glass by one person, while the other person moles the door glass run over the curvature of the glass down along the glass towards the door glass (window) channel.

3). Door Glass: Once the door glass run are bent; install the door glass thru the top of the door panel and lower it to the bottom of the door and let it rest there until a further installation point.

4). Vent Window: At this point the door glass, regulator & division bar are inside the door panel; with the door glass and division bar laying down in the bottom of the door panel. Insert a nylon rope / string under outside of the rubber vent window seal; leaving a large portion expose at both ends to grasp when pulling the rubber seal lip over the door frame. (Our cord was about five foot long) probably too much hanging out but sometimes having extra is good.
We then installed the vent window using two screws along the A post and tighten them about 3/4 of the way. (Ensure the nylon cord is on the outside of the doorframe prior to this point). Go ahead and slowly pull the cord to over lap the rubber seal against the outside doorframe.

5). Division Bar: Side division bar into place; making sure the bottom attachment plate is over the top of the regulator mechanism to bolt to the inside two bolts to secure the bar to the regulator. Also screw the top two screws (thru door frame) loosely into place. Ensure the vent window screw; that's inserted thru the horizontal portion of the vent rubber near the vent window handle is screw into the division bar at this time.

6). Door Glass Run: Remember this is now bent at a curved angle; Install thru the top of door, guide door run along the inside channel guide along the door handle side until the dove tail clip is resting flush into the groove in the channel (don't know proper name) that the door glass run slides into. This channel bar is vertical along the door handle side, bolted thru the door panel near door locking mechanism.
* Use a 3/8" thick wood stick to insert between door glass run trim to snap run into alignment holes; don't put pressure into curvature portion only along the top three snap holes and two side snap holes of the trim portions.
** We use a wood shim (wedge use to plum & align a typical house door) from your local hardware store as our stick to accomplish this task....

7). Door Glass: Lift door glass from bottom of door panel along division bar & door glass run trim. Once align with regulator arm attach with cam roller & clip, (I use new plastic cam roller but found that my original (E clip or Jesus clip) attach cam roller better than my new made in Taiwan clip).
Crank glass up about 1/3rd of the way out; have a person hold squarely the glass for proper alignment while another person tightens division bar bolts and screws; we also tighten the vent window screws securely at this time.

8). Anti-Rattlers: Anti- rattlers are the last item to install and can be snapped into place with your finger and with the thinner portion of the wood shim we use. There are real thin metal pieces on the ends of the Anti-rattlers; we place the ends along the outside of the division bar and door glass run.

After this step just reattach your door trim, armrest, handles and access panel. I feel it took me longer to type this out then installing new parts. The DC illustration really help and recommend due to having pictures for each step; but the main difference's between them and us when we installed the vent window step. Seem easier prior too division bar and window glass step.
Hope this helps any future installments.

Mitch

 

Thanks for the tech article Mitch, I copied it to my truck folder, because it is a job that I have to do.

I will get to it one day, I know I will.

John