run the OASIS report.
Searching for an Excursion
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Any fuel additive that boosts the cetane (lube) in diesel fuel. 30W motor oil works great. Dump a quart in the tank right before filling up.
When you get the front tire off the ground, grab it at the top and bottom and try to wiggle the tire. It should be tight. Also, spin the tire while off the ground, and it should not make it much more than one full revolution at most. If it spins freely for a while, the bearing is worn out. If it wiggles from the 12 o'clock/6 o'clock points, the bearing is worn out. Watch the back side for ball joint movement as well.
Operate every single switch in the truck to ensure it does what it is supposed to. If it doesn't, use it to bargain with. Bring paper and a pencil to write down problems you find.
When you get the front tire off the ground, grab it at the top and bottom and try to wiggle the tire. It should be tight. Also, spin the tire while off the ground, and it should not make it much more than one full revolution at most. If it spins freely for a while, the bearing is worn out. If it wiggles from the 12 o'clock/6 o'clock points, the bearing is worn out. Watch the back side for ball joint movement as well.
Operate every single switch in the truck to ensure it does what it is supposed to. If it doesn't, use it to bargain with. Bring paper and a pencil to write down problems you find.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
I like to use a piece of 2x4 as a lever under the jacked up tire. It can take some force to find a bad ball joint with these heavy tires. These trucks like to go through front ball joints, but again, for that price they should be solid.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 179
From: Phenix City, AL
I'm trying to compile a checklist from many of the different threads on this forum, replies to my questions, the powerstrokehelp pre-buy videos, and both the 7.3 and Excursion tech folders. Unless this is a total turd I'll probably buy, and use my discrepancy list as a bargaining chip.
I do have one concern in that the odometer could have been rolled back. No mileage reported on CarFax since 2009. 45k miles in 8 years is possible, especially given the dry-rotted worn-out tires. Could also have been 145k miles in 8 years. Roll back the odometer from 270k miles to 170k miles, recover the seats, and put on a brake pedal pad. Anything else you could think of that I could use to judge the mileage that the dealer may might have left unfixed, if he is being shady? Steering wheel looks pretty decent compared to many I've looked at.
Thanks,
Lifer
I do have one concern in that the odometer could have been rolled back. No mileage reported on CarFax since 2009. 45k miles in 8 years is possible, especially given the dry-rotted worn-out tires. Could also have been 145k miles in 8 years. Roll back the odometer from 270k miles to 170k miles, recover the seats, and put on a brake pedal pad. Anything else you could think of that I could use to judge the mileage that the dealer may might have left unfixed, if he is being shady? Steering wheel looks pretty decent compared to many I've looked at.
Thanks,
Lifer
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 16
From: Ouray, CO
Some things get forgotten about - until after you buy and then it rains..
A/C (and defroster)
Heater
Test wipers
Test front/rear washer fluid squirters (IF they are out of fluid - that is often a way to conceal the problem)
Operate each window/door lock - from EACH switch
All exterior lights/signals
A/C (and defroster)
Heater
Test wipers
Test front/rear washer fluid squirters (IF they are out of fluid - that is often a way to conceal the problem)
Operate each window/door lock - from EACH switch
All exterior lights/signals
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
I'm trying to compile a checklist from many of the different threads on this forum, replies to my questions, the powerstrokehelp pre-buy videos, and both the 7.3 and Excursion tech folders. Unless this is a total turd I'll probably buy, and use my discrepancy list as a bargaining chip.
I do have one concern in that the odometer could have been rolled back. No mileage reported on CarFax since 2009. 45k miles in 8 years is possible, especially given the dry-rotted worn-out tires. Could also have been 145k miles in 8 years. Roll back the odometer from 270k miles to 170k miles, recover the seats, and put on a brake pedal pad. Anything else you could think of that I could use to judge the mileage that the dealer may might have left unfixed, if he is being shady? Steering wheel looks pretty decent compared to many I've looked at.
Thanks,
Lifer
I do have one concern in that the odometer could have been rolled back. No mileage reported on CarFax since 2009. 45k miles in 8 years is possible, especially given the dry-rotted worn-out tires. Could also have been 145k miles in 8 years. Roll back the odometer from 270k miles to 170k miles, recover the seats, and put on a brake pedal pad. Anything else you could think of that I could use to judge the mileage that the dealer may might have left unfixed, if he is being shady? Steering wheel looks pretty decent compared to many I've looked at.
Thanks,
Lifer
If your concern is the dark period of 8 years, mine was the same thing when I bought a 2000 PSD EX 4x4 in 2015 w/ 137K. Previous owner did all the work himself, and the state had no smog inspections and state must not have reported at registration. Last reading was at 35K in mid 2000s. All was well though, but I had service records he had done in a huge folder, which you may not have.
I would check interior hard parts if you are concerned on actual mileage, specifically the door handles and center console. Steering wheel is a good indicator of age too as you mentioned, 150K steering wheel is generally worn but functional with no tears, 270K is pretty ratty. Carpets good to check. Handles on the interior door are a really good indicator. They could be in pretty bad shape at 270K miles, where at 150K where mine are at now, the texture the original rubber came with is smooth now, but not torn up.
Could also check the body mounts. If it has more miles, it reasons that they will be rotting or squashed and bulging looking, but could be a result of where the vehicle spent its life previously.
Mechanically, the 4r100 at 270K is probably reaching the end of its life depending on how its been treated. Turbo shaft play can be an indicator too, but hard to define if you don't know how the truck was used, tow vehicle or grocery getter.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 179
From: Phenix City, AL
7.3 Excursion Pre-Buy Checklist
Well, I'm sure it needs tweaking, but I tried to get most of the information I found from about 5 different places all on one sheet of paper.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,266
Likes: 149
From: In the field...
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Brett Foote
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
No problem, Stewart. This could be a long post, though. 
First thing I did was check all the body panels. I looked at the gaps between panels and doors to ensure they were all uniform/even. I checked the bumpers for even spacing all the way across (looking for evidence of collision on both of these). Opened and closed all the doors feeling for smoothness and "clean closing". Checked cladding along bottom of truck for any evidence of removal...gotta look at the fasteners in the wheel wells. They will have tool marks on them, or they will show indentations where they have been removed but didn't go back in the exact same spot. Same goes for body panel screws you can see under the hood (along sides of inside of engine compartment). In a nutshell, checking for bolts/screws that were taken off and didn't go back exactly where they were. This doesn't take as long as it sounds. About 15 minutes.
Next I checked all four tires. One had an excessive number of weights on it. Tread was evenly worn on all four. Rims were free of corrosion, and no evidence of curb strikes. I then climbed on top and checked the roof rack. All parts moved freely...no evidence of paint fade on the top. At all. This baby was garage kept. South Texas heat fades paint quickly on dark colored vehicles if they are kept outside. No evidence of fading on the plastic body parts, either. If 4x4, check front hubs for function. They should turn without much effort, and you will feel it "click" when you turn it all the way to the right to lock them in.
I then went underneath the truck starting from the front. Checked bolts on front bumper for evidence of removal. Bolts will have tool marks on them, or you will see where they didn't go back exactly where they were. Grab and wiggle/push tie rod ends; they should be stiff in the joints, and the tie rod should be hard to rotate. Check them for grease in the fittings. Next check the swaybar links and bushings. They should be solid and have no wiggle/play. Also look at the bushings and see if they are dry rotting. Look at oil pan and fly wheel area for evidence of oil leaks. If there are any, it will be obvious from the caked dirt on the pan/fly wheel housing. Also looking at oil pan and tranny pan for any dents or evidence of rock strikes from off-roading. You should be looking for rock strikes and major dents everywhere underneath...evidence of abuse. These are pretty long wheelbases for 4x4, so it is easy to high center and do damage off road. Check drive shafts (there are two for 4x4 trucks) for dents/scrapes. Also check U-joints for play and tightness. Check front and rear axles for signs of any leakage, especially front axle out near the tires. Check dust seals at steering knuckles. This particular truck had the front brake pads replaced and the rotors turned. Rear brakes getting kinda low with very light grooving in rear rotor. Look for ANY drips on the ground while under the truck. Check for rust on exhaust and fuel tank. Look at bolts on tow hitch for signs of removal (rear end accident). Check the rubber bump stops on all axles and springs. They will usually be falling apart or missing unless they have been replaced.
I checked the interior next. Look at carpet around all seats looking for stains. Check seats for wear and holes. Look UNDER seats at carpets for any mold (water damage and spills). Check all arm rests for function. Check seats fold properly and that they are bolted securely (evidence of removal or replacement). Check spare tire. Check overhead padding for sagging. All console doors and compartments for proper opening/closing. Check that all floor mats are present.
I then started the truck and checked that every switch inside did its job. Roll windows ALL THE WAY down and back up again. Lock and unlock the doors several times rapidly. Check rear vent windows for proper open and close. Check overhead console works/cycle through functions. Check fog lights for function. Dash lights should all work. Check power seats for function and heated seats if it has them. Check all power points for function (bring a phone charger or something). Turn truck off.
I then went under the hood and checked everything item by item. Looking for evidence of water leaks around water pump and thermostat. Look at thermostat flange (this one needed replaced). Check serpentine belt for fraying on the edges. Check upper/lower hoses for any bubbling or dry rot. Check alternator connectors for heat damage (on back of the alternator). Check engine valley for signs of leaks...this will be obvious. If there is a thick sludge in there, or fresh fluids something is leaking. Also look for tools and bolts down in there (you will need a flashlight). These could be evidence of major maintenance. Check intake boots for elasticity. Check air filter for signs of neglect (lots of dust or debris inside filter cavity). Check DATES on batteries. Look at connectors for corrosion/or signs that corrosion has been removed. Check all fluids for levels and CONDITION of the fluid. Look at exhaust headers/up pipes/down pipe and turbo for black streaks at connections. These will indicate exhaust leaks. Look for any signs of animals nesting in the engine compartment....Yes I am serious on this one. If animals were nesting, there WILL BE chewed wires or rubber somewhere. Check ALL THE FUSES! It takes a a little bit to check all the fuses, but it is time well spent. I had several blown on my truck when I bought it...they were all for the towing/trailer lights.
Started it up again. Check for white smoke when first starting it!!!!! Check for dash lights/warning lights/wait to start function. Let the engine warm up a little, then check alternator for proper output...should be between 13.5-14.5VDC (use voltmeter). Listen for any obvious mechanical whining, clicking, clacking or thumping (outside the normal clickety-clack of diesels). Crawl back under it after it has warmed up and look for leaks!! Anything besides water dripping off the condensers is a red flag. Rev it up several times and then hold it about 2000 RPMS for about 10 seconds. Look and listen for surging (tachometer).
I then hooked it up to the computer for diagnostic testing. I have a handheld Ford computer, so this was easy for me. I did all the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests first. There are several, with the most important (IMHO) being the famous Injector Buzz test. I then did all the Key On Engine Running (KOER) tests, with the most important being the Cylinder Contribution Test (CCT). If all these pass without getting any "soft" DTCs, then things are definitely looking up! If you don't have a computer that does all these tests, borrow a scan tool and at least check for soft codes that haven't set off the SES light on the dash.
Next I drove the truck. Please do yourself and favor, and drive it for at least 30 minutes. Turn the radio OFF :-). Checking for wander at highway speeds. Check for any play in steering when turning. Any strange noises/whining at highway speeds. Check for good, smooth acceleration...check the mirror for any white smoke when you jump on the accelerator! Give the brakes a REAL stop test. Jump on them hard and pay attention to whether it pulls left or right. If it pulls, this is likely a caliper problem or caliper slide pin problem. Check that cruise control works. Pay attention to how the transmission shifts both up and down. Test the ESOF (electronic shift on the fly) for both 4x4H and 4x4L. Go backwards and forwards in both functions, preferably on a dirt surface if you can find one. You have to be in neutral with foot on brake to shift into 4x4L. Check A/C function while driving around. Bring a thermostat (I have an Infra-red Thermo), and check vent temps at highway speeds. They should be around 38-40F. At idle you are looking for around 60-62F.
That is about it. Took me about two hours to check all the above. If you don't have a computer you can knock 30 minutes off for the diagnostic tests.
First thing I did was check all the body panels. I looked at the gaps between panels and doors to ensure they were all uniform/even. I checked the bumpers for even spacing all the way across (looking for evidence of collision on both of these). Opened and closed all the doors feeling for smoothness and "clean closing". Checked cladding along bottom of truck for any evidence of removal...gotta look at the fasteners in the wheel wells. They will have tool marks on them, or they will show indentations where they have been removed but didn't go back in the exact same spot. Same goes for body panel screws you can see under the hood (along sides of inside of engine compartment). In a nutshell, checking for bolts/screws that were taken off and didn't go back exactly where they were. This doesn't take as long as it sounds. About 15 minutes.
Next I checked all four tires. One had an excessive number of weights on it. Tread was evenly worn on all four. Rims were free of corrosion, and no evidence of curb strikes. I then climbed on top and checked the roof rack. All parts moved freely...no evidence of paint fade on the top. At all. This baby was garage kept. South Texas heat fades paint quickly on dark colored vehicles if they are kept outside. No evidence of fading on the plastic body parts, either. If 4x4, check front hubs for function. They should turn without much effort, and you will feel it "click" when you turn it all the way to the right to lock them in.
I then went underneath the truck starting from the front. Checked bolts on front bumper for evidence of removal. Bolts will have tool marks on them, or you will see where they didn't go back exactly where they were. Grab and wiggle/push tie rod ends; they should be stiff in the joints, and the tie rod should be hard to rotate. Check them for grease in the fittings. Next check the swaybar links and bushings. They should be solid and have no wiggle/play. Also look at the bushings and see if they are dry rotting. Look at oil pan and fly wheel area for evidence of oil leaks. If there are any, it will be obvious from the caked dirt on the pan/fly wheel housing. Also looking at oil pan and tranny pan for any dents or evidence of rock strikes from off-roading. You should be looking for rock strikes and major dents everywhere underneath...evidence of abuse. These are pretty long wheelbases for 4x4, so it is easy to high center and do damage off road. Check drive shafts (there are two for 4x4 trucks) for dents/scrapes. Also check U-joints for play and tightness. Check front and rear axles for signs of any leakage, especially front axle out near the tires. Check dust seals at steering knuckles. This particular truck had the front brake pads replaced and the rotors turned. Rear brakes getting kinda low with very light grooving in rear rotor. Look for ANY drips on the ground while under the truck. Check for rust on exhaust and fuel tank. Look at bolts on tow hitch for signs of removal (rear end accident). Check the rubber bump stops on all axles and springs. They will usually be falling apart or missing unless they have been replaced.
I checked the interior next. Look at carpet around all seats looking for stains. Check seats for wear and holes. Look UNDER seats at carpets for any mold (water damage and spills). Check all arm rests for function. Check seats fold properly and that they are bolted securely (evidence of removal or replacement). Check spare tire. Check overhead padding for sagging. All console doors and compartments for proper opening/closing. Check that all floor mats are present.
I then started the truck and checked that every switch inside did its job. Roll windows ALL THE WAY down and back up again. Lock and unlock the doors several times rapidly. Check rear vent windows for proper open and close. Check overhead console works/cycle through functions. Check fog lights for function. Dash lights should all work. Check power seats for function and heated seats if it has them. Check all power points for function (bring a phone charger or something). Turn truck off.
I then went under the hood and checked everything item by item. Looking for evidence of water leaks around water pump and thermostat. Look at thermostat flange (this one needed replaced). Check serpentine belt for fraying on the edges. Check upper/lower hoses for any bubbling or dry rot. Check alternator connectors for heat damage (on back of the alternator). Check engine valley for signs of leaks...this will be obvious. If there is a thick sludge in there, or fresh fluids something is leaking. Also look for tools and bolts down in there (you will need a flashlight). These could be evidence of major maintenance. Check intake boots for elasticity. Check air filter for signs of neglect (lots of dust or debris inside filter cavity). Check DATES on batteries. Look at connectors for corrosion/or signs that corrosion has been removed. Check all fluids for levels and CONDITION of the fluid. Look at exhaust headers/up pipes/down pipe and turbo for black streaks at connections. These will indicate exhaust leaks. Look for any signs of animals nesting in the engine compartment....Yes I am serious on this one. If animals were nesting, there WILL BE chewed wires or rubber somewhere. Check ALL THE FUSES! It takes a a little bit to check all the fuses, but it is time well spent. I had several blown on my truck when I bought it...they were all for the towing/trailer lights.
Started it up again. Check for white smoke when first starting it!!!!! Check for dash lights/warning lights/wait to start function. Let the engine warm up a little, then check alternator for proper output...should be between 13.5-14.5VDC (use voltmeter). Listen for any obvious mechanical whining, clicking, clacking or thumping (outside the normal clickety-clack of diesels). Crawl back under it after it has warmed up and look for leaks!! Anything besides water dripping off the condensers is a red flag. Rev it up several times and then hold it about 2000 RPMS for about 10 seconds. Look and listen for surging (tachometer).
I then hooked it up to the computer for diagnostic testing. I have a handheld Ford computer, so this was easy for me. I did all the Key On Engine Off (KOEO) tests first. There are several, with the most important (IMHO) being the famous Injector Buzz test. I then did all the Key On Engine Running (KOER) tests, with the most important being the Cylinder Contribution Test (CCT). If all these pass without getting any "soft" DTCs, then things are definitely looking up! If you don't have a computer that does all these tests, borrow a scan tool and at least check for soft codes that haven't set off the SES light on the dash.
Next I drove the truck. Please do yourself and favor, and drive it for at least 30 minutes. Turn the radio OFF :-). Checking for wander at highway speeds. Check for any play in steering when turning. Any strange noises/whining at highway speeds. Check for good, smooth acceleration...check the mirror for any white smoke when you jump on the accelerator! Give the brakes a REAL stop test. Jump on them hard and pay attention to whether it pulls left or right. If it pulls, this is likely a caliper problem or caliper slide pin problem. Check that cruise control works. Pay attention to how the transmission shifts both up and down. Test the ESOF (electronic shift on the fly) for both 4x4H and 4x4L. Go backwards and forwards in both functions, preferably on a dirt surface if you can find one. You have to be in neutral with foot on brake to shift into 4x4L. Check A/C function while driving around. Bring a thermostat (I have an Infra-red Thermo), and check vent temps at highway speeds. They should be around 38-40F. At idle you are looking for around 60-62F.
That is about it. Took me about two hours to check all the above. If you don't have a computer you can knock 30 minutes off for the diagnostic tests.
I keep meaning to edit the format of the post into a bullet list and then add it to the tech folder but forgot about doing that probably 4.5 years ago, LOL!
Stewart
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 179
From: Phenix City, AL
Thanks Stewart for that thread. It's one of the few I hadn't found. When I get back I'll glean any information out of there I hadn't already covered and update the list.
Lifer
Lifer
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1,365
Likes: 179
From: Phenix City, AL
Metric or inch?
Got my CPS today from Ford. How much are they supposed to run? Mine cost $38.57 before tax. Seems higher than I had seen in some of the threads I read. Of course those threads could be many years old.
Anyway, I digress. Someone mentioned I should bring a 10mm wrench to install it. They also mentioned a socket set. Should those sockets be inch or metric? Is the whole vehicle metric, or just the engine?
Thanks again for all the help. I'm sure this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Lifer
Anyway, I digress. Someone mentioned I should bring a 10mm wrench to install it. They also mentioned a socket set. Should those sockets be inch or metric? Is the whole vehicle metric, or just the engine?
Thanks again for all the help. I'm sure this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Lifer
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
