Pros and Cons of a 7.3 vs V10.

Very few people know how to maintain a 7.3. Given the age of this motor there will be about $2000 to $3000 worth of maintaining to do. 1) remove intercooler and all lines. Clean intercooler and inspect line for deteration. 2) inspect glow plug system and repair as needed. 3) test hpop. 4) check for fuel leaks at fuel filter. 5) drain antifreeze and flush system...add correct amount of anti cavitation fluid. 6) check for broken exhaust manifold bolts....if any broken repair as exhaust leaks cause big issues with turbo spool up. 7) if blow by mod has been done I would put it back to factory configuration. 8) test both batteries and if not perfect replace both.

V10 needs new plugs and cops, fuel injectors ultrasonic cleaned, exhaust studs, and a good fluids flushing and replacement and your good to go. Test battery and replace if not good. Figure $1500 or so. Plus the V10 and 7.3 share most of the same internal guts in transmission so a V10 trans tends to last quite a while.

And make sure you put a lubricating additive in your fuel. 7.3s were not designed for ultra low sulfur diesel and injectors won't last as long without some lubrication.

 

Ok, found this one east of Dallas: http://www.highcreekmotors.com/vehicle-details/used-2000-ford-excursion-limited-4wd-royse-city-tx-id-17242228. Doesn't meet my heated seat or adjustable pedals wish list, but just about everything else. I've some negotiating to do yet, but if everything checks out I'll buy it.

I put a deposit on it to hold it since I've got work stuff I can't get out of through Thursday. I'll be able to get there sometime Friday. If possible I'd like someone to look at this Ex for me, or with me. I'm willing to eat the deposit and airfare to stay away from a disaster that will cost me more in the long run.

Should I also post this in the 7.3 forum, as it may get more traffic?

Thanks all,
Lifer

 

You will definitely want a diesel guy to look at it with you, but right off the bat is that green coolant? Maybe it's a 6.0 thing but I would be running the Ford gold or zerex gold in it. That and it will need new tires soon. Those cracks around the sidewall aren't cool. For the money they are asking, this stuff should be done already. I would also look hard at that leather and make sure it's been replaced vs patched and died over. It looks good in the pics but I would hate for it to start peeling away in a year.

 

Yeah, I didn't see the "Limited" stiched into the seat at the head portion so it makes me wonder.

As well, (someone who know the trim levels like the back of their hand can answer this) but didn't all Limited's come with reverse sensors?

Stewart

 

Anything is possible on the 00 (first year) when it comes to the trim (backup sensors). Those seats have been recovered, as the stitching doesn't match Ford's patterns. They do look good, though. I'm not available this Friday, but I AM available next Friday. I'll be driving right by there on my way to the farm in Arkansas.

 

Backup sensors were optional early on.

 

Ok, flying to Texas tomorrow to check out the 2000 7.3 4x4 Ex. There is the possibility of one of the guys from the 7.3 forum coming to check it out with me. But on the chance that he cannot, I'm going to have to go it alone. I've got a few questions if that is the case.


I've read every pre-buy checklist thread I can find. I've still got a few lingering questions though: what tools should I bring with me to do the inspection, and to help me get home if something minor should happen? How do I check the coolant to see if it is what these 7.3's are supposed to have in them? If I drive it 700 miles home with incorrect fluids in any part (engine oil, coolant, differentials, transfer case, transmission) will I damage anything? I will change everything when I get home to get a baseline fill.


There's a real good chance I'll need to get tires before I head home. What do you recommend for stock size tires, mostly intended for towing a TT and a secondary daily driver? My buddy really likes Yokohama Geolander ATS E Load Rating. I've looked at tire stores around the area I'm going to and it doesn't look like anyone has them in stock. I don't really want to commit to buying tires before I commit to the truck. Just looking for other options.


What would you consider a disqualifying problem with this truck?


I'm also going to post in the 7.3 forum.


Thanks all,
Lifer

 

I know powerstrokehelp is not usually liked around here but I do have to say Bill's "How to buy a Powerstroke" video series is pretty decent. Definitely some helpful tips in those vids.

 

I would have a cam position sensor, 8mm and 10 mm wrench.

A good OBD2 scanner and code reader. One that can log all sensors while driving.

A set of metric wrenches and a electrical tester.

Fuel additive for adding some lubrication to the ultra low diesel fuel.

Need to jack it up and check front wheel bearings. A bad bearing won't last 700 miles.

Push on brake while idling in park and try to turn steering wheel. Should be able to turn wheel with some effort. If it squeels too much a new hydro boost or power steering pump is needed....after 700 mile trip.

Make sure when heat set to defrost air does not come out of ac vents and vise versa. If it does you have a vacuum issue and may need a new pump after 700 mile trip.

Make sure no fuel leaks close to fuel filter. See if fuel filter heater is plugged in. If not do not plug it in. It will be shorted and will blow fuses if it's plugged in. A new one will be needed after 700 mile trip.

Have a reputable place load test both batteries. If even boarder line put two new batteries in it. Test alternator to make sure it's working good.

AND MAKE SURE BOTH FRONT HUBS ARE NOT LOCKED IN. LEFT AND RIGHT UJOINTS SHOULD TURN BY HAND WHEN VEHICLE IS PARKED. IF 1 OR MORE DO NOT TURN BY HAND FIX BEFORE DRIVING 700 MILES.

Drain transfer case and refill with ford transfer case fluid....atf.

And my last advise which is not diesel related. If vehicle has a aftermarket alarm system I personally would not buy it. They cause too many electrical issues with the GEM unit.

 

Totally agree with checking the 4wd system. Not only that it locks in properly, but that it unlocks properly. (you can only truly verify that it unlocks by getting under it while in 2wd and trying to spin the outer U-joints, they should both spin by hand in 2wd) For that price it should all be working great. Also I would use Fords XL-12 for the transfer case. It looks just like ATF, but Ford no longer specs ATF for the T-case and they replaced it with the XL-12. I think it took just over 2 quarts if my memory is correct.

 

I like this color; meets your mileage limit.
2003 Ford Other Pickups Eddie Bauer | eBay

 

Check that rear hatch locks and unlocks.
Every Excursion I have looked at fails this test.

Using key fob push lock two times or using lock switch on drivers door, lock vehicle and then try to open rear hatch. If it opens the vehicle is not secureable. Do not leave any valuables in it until fixed. For the price they are asking it should lock.

 

This might sound like I am nit picking, sorry in advance and no hard feelings as we should look at all of the available Excursions prior to purchase ...

That said, Did they get high centered while wheeling or did they try to lift it from the running boards? Holes in the dash and missing radio *****? Missing the unobtainable all important second row seat lever (hard to climb in to third row on that side without it)? broken overhead console lid? Rear tires look bald? The bones might be solid here but they have a little work to do IMHO before they stick a 20K+ price tag on that.

 

Agree, it's all good; having high centered my Ex , yes that's what it does to the running boards. Needs some hammering/bending.

 

Ok, stupid new-guy questions:
How exactly do you check front wheel bearings when jacked up?
What fuel additive?


I've tried searching for these answers but it seems to bring up anything but what I'm asking for.


Thanks,
Lifer