Yup, I see it's fuel now.

There's no way that's the lower, big fuel filter O-ring. The fuel filter O-ring would break before you could stretch it open enough to be bigger than the bowl.

Stewart

 

The fuel is clear. I can see one section of the fuel bowl heating element at the 4 o'clock position, and I can see the bottom edge of the bowl through the fuel at the entire top half of the perimeter. The glare is throwing some of you off .

 

WHAT!!!! Stew? The bung oring on the lower plate is what I think we're referring to that was left behind. It rides the stem like a Wyoming cowgirl.

Looks to me like the entire lower plate and bung oring are still in place. That's why I asked him to drain the bowl and post a picture empty.

See what we see. After my Circus story, I'm pretty damn sure what I'm looking at.

Wanna see it drained or will simply unsub.

Cap, oring upper, filter, lower plate, lower oring. plate (contains lower bung oring) I see lower plate, bung and that's what I'm gleaning from this portrait. If that is )IF) that's what we're looking at, doesn't matter if you threw a dishrag in for the upper seal. Your gonna puke fuel everywhere you travel until you have to call a hook!!!



If I'm wrong, I'm taking a class.

:')

 

Oooooooh, gotcha!

LOL!

Stewart

 

I think he needs a Hutch mod. I see bubbles..

 

I think he's either forgotten about this thread or thought it might take a while to get feedback. We are all spending way more time chatting about this issue than the OP is. Perhaps he's even already resolved it for himself.

 

Sorry for the delay, I did empty the bowl and clean it well- the discoloration on the sides didn't come off. The photo is without the element and I did have it installed in the correct orientation. I hand tightened the cap after I lubricated and installed both the O-ring on the lower part of the filter element and the gasket which I fitted into the bowl and put the cap on top. I should have returned it right at that point but with no extra vehicle it would have been hard to do as the old filter was bad and actually came apart as I removed it.

The gasket is a QC failure, not even close to fitting correctly. I expect more from Motorcraft for the outrageous price from dealership. Although the UVCH I replaced was marked made in China so maybe I shouldn't expect much...

 

I ordered a motorcraft filter a month or two ago from amazon and I noticed that the o-ring was much bigger than it seemed it should be. I chalked it up to my not remembering what the old one looked like when it came off though. It doesn't seem to leak yet but you've got me wondering how tight that beveled o-ring should be around the threads of the lid.

 

Like I mentioned before...the bevel oring installs on the cap, not atop the bowl

 

I inspect and reuse mine. Sometimes if the new one is "relaxed" enough I'll use the new one but I don't see a reason to replace them every time just because. I replace mine at least once a year and if that darn gasket can't last at least two years, there's something wrong with it.

Stewart

 

wasn't even close to fitting that way, I did the best I could with what I was staring at which was a cheap Chinese crap gasket

 

at one time Ford was selling the filter and cap, then they stopped. I have no idea if the cap I had on was original or not. A flat gasket is so much easier to install.

 

The problem is how they pack the seal, and if you stretch by accident then the seal is shot and wont work.

 

hey all I know is I have changed the fuel filter probably 8 times or more with either Ford or aftermarket and always hand tighten only and only this time has it failed on the road necessitating a tow.

 

Z31freakify is onto something here. My last filter change the gasket was so badly creased that nothing I could do would get it to seal. Reused the old one and it was perfect.