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I am having problems figuring out where my rear differential is leaking from. Has to be near the drive shaft I would think because there is gear oil slung all over on the under carriage. I think the problem is in my where the drive shafts meets the diff. Not really sure.
Well normally I'd say the pinion seal, but that looks like it's either has been replaced, or recently cleaned up, making the seal look like it's been replaced.
Well normally I'd say the pinion seal, but that looks like it's either has been replaced, or recently cleaned up, making the seal look like it's been replaced.
Unk Bob
you would be right on the cleaned up part I wiped the area down to get a better look. I was thinking the same thing. That would be the reason for the "slinging" of gear oil correct? What about the yoke area? I have heard that there cab be a weep hole in the yoke that causes oil to seep out and hit the u joints and sling everywhere..is this correct?
you would be right on the cleaned up part I wiped the area down to get a better look. I was thinking the same thing. That would be the reason for the "slinging" of gear oil correct? What about the yoke area? I have heard that there cab be a weep hole in the yoke that causes oil to seep out and hit the u joints and sling everywhere..is this correct?
A weep hole doesn't sound right.
I'm staying with the Pinion Seal, it leaks and let fluid out, and the drive shaft slings that fluid everywhere. That's how it covers the entire front of the differential.
When you replace that pinion seal, that's a good time to check the u-joints too since you have to drop the drive shaft to do the seal.
A weep hole doesn't sound right.
I'm staying with the Pinion Seal, it leaks and let fluid out, and the drive shaft slings that fluid everywhere. That's how it covers the entire front of the differential.
When you replace that pinion seal, that's a good time to check the u-joints too since you have to drop the drive shaft to do the seal.
Unk Bob
the pinion seal replacement.. is it really that difficult. Been trying to locate the basic how to with the godd ole' Haynes but not having much luck any suggestions on where to look for help?
the pinion seal replacement.. is it really that difficult. Been trying to locate the basic how to with the godd ole' Haynes but not having much luck any suggestions on where to look for help?
No it really isn't a bad job to do. You'll need to remove the nuts that are on the small "U" bolts of the U joints. That will let you remove the drive shaft, or at least slide it our of the way. And mark the location that the u-joints are on the yoke, so you can put it back together in the same spot.
Then remove the nut holding the yoke and remove the yoke from the rear differential, then you can remove the pinion seal.
Put it back together in the reverse order. Be careful putting the new seal in nice and straight. And make sure that new seal fits the yoke firmly, and put some gear oil on the seal, and yoke both when you put it together.
An impact will be your friend removing that nut for the rear yoke.
You can,t just use an impact gun to put it back together. There is what is called a Crush sleave in there. It must be torqued to a certain torque speck or the pinion bearings will burn up. Ask me how I learned about that. I didn,t know the first time and just torqued the crap out it, pinion bearigs were toast after very few miles.
You can,t just use an impact gun to put it back together. There is what is called a Crush sleave in there. It must be torqued to a certain torque speck or the pinion bearings will burn up. Ask me how I learned about that. I didn,t know the first time and just torqued the crap out it, pinion bearigs were toast after very few miles.
No it really isn't a bad job to do. You'll need to remove the nuts that are on the small "U" bolts of the U joints. That will let you remove the drive shaft, or at least slide it our of the way. And mark the location that the u-joints are on the yoke, so you can put it back together in the same spot.
Then remove the nut holding the yoke and remove the yoke from the rear differential, then you can remove the pinion seal.
Put it back together in the reverse order. Be careful putting the new seal in nice and straight. And make sure that new seal fits the yoke firmly, and put some gear oil on the seal, and yoke both when you put it together.
An impact will be your friend removing that nut for the rear yoke.
Unk Bob
will I need any special pullers or tools, other than a 12 point 12mm socket I think for the drive shaft? The flange is pressed on, correct?
You can,t just use an impact gun to put it back together. There is what is called a Crush sleave in there. It must be torqued to a certain torque speck or the pinion bearings will burn up. Ask me how I learned about that. I didn,t know the first time and just torqued the crap out it, pinion bearigs were toast after very few miles.
With that, would it work if I was to mark the bolt placement relative to the flange and such, and count the thread showing for the nut, to provide some information if I, of course do not have a torque wrench.
Keep in mind that, if you have grease-able u-joints, they will also sling a significant amount of grease onto the undercarriage. Make sure, what you see is gear oil and not u-joint grease. Usually a leaking pinion seal will drip oil eventually when the truck is parked for an extended period. Place a piece of cardboard under the diff when you're parked to verify. That is, if you ever park it for a week or so. Also, make sure you have big 1/2" sockets and a big breaker bar. That pinion nut can be a bear to remove. If you're not equipped, I'd let a rear end guy do it.
Check your axle vent on the driver side tube where the brake junction is.
My truck pissed a bunch of grease out of the left tube and into my brake drum, and when I checked the vent, it was plugged. I ended up removing the vent's hollow bolt, and using a drill to ream it out. Put it back on and haven't noticed any leakage since.
