My 5 speed truck has an issue with pressing in clutch and not engaging the neutral safety switch. At first you would have to press the pedal down 3 times now it takes like 8 times until it will allow starting. The fluid in the reservoir is full. maybe to full now as I added a little... ty

 

The clutch safety switch (has nothing to do with neutral) is mechanical, not dependent on they hydraulics. Earlier trucks had a rube-goldberg switch over by the pedal arm; later trucks have the switch on the master pushrod. I forget which one your year would have; just crawl down by the pedals and have a look.

If it's the old-style, try this - hold the key in the START position, and gradually let UP on the pedal. My '85 has that kind of switch, and it's REAL picky and doesn't self-adjust like it should. Sometimes I can go "too far" with the pedal and the contacts open again, so I have to back off on the pedal a bit.

If it's the newer style, check the pedal box bushings and the bushing on the pushrod eyelet that the lever on the pedal pivot engages. If there's enough slop in either/both, the pedal won't push the pushrod far enough to close the switch contacts. This would likely also result in the clutch not fully disengaging.

 

Assuming your clutch works fine, the neutral switch probably needs to be replaced. Unfortunately it's kind of expensive.

Standard disclaimer: the neutral safety switch is a SAFETY feature. The following is a pretty typical "repair" but the safety switch will no longer function as intended. You must ensure that the vehicle is in neutral and the clutch is not engaged when starting the vehicle.

You can bypass the switch by jumping two wires at the connector (my truck has this "repair"). Basically disconnect the plug from the switch and use a jumper wire to connect (I believe) the two red / light blue wires. Verify the wire colors though. If you look at a wire diagram the red / light blue is referred to as "R/LB". If you look at the wires they are red with a light blue stripe.

Or you can cut the correct wires and splice them together. Don't cut them close to the plug in case you want to replace the switch in the future. The PO of my truck did just that, so I'll have to find a pigtail if I ever want to install / use the switch again.

If you have cruise control there's probably other considerations to make as well. Verify using a wiring diagram for best results.

Search the forums because there's at least a couple threads discussing this.

Good luck.

 

I have basically the same problem with my '88 F-150 with the 5 speed transmission. Mine will always crank over on the first start cold and only acts up on occasion. I have had to jump the fender mounted solenoid a couple times. I actually did buy the safety switch, about 50 dollars, but it didn't help. I had also beforehand replaced some bushings in the clutch pedal linkage.

I may have to resort to marks method of bypassing the safety switch. Just thought I would throw my experience in on the subject.

 

That switch is $22 and change for a Standard Motor Products brand at RockAuto. Last couple hydraulic kits (master-line-slave pre-built) I bought, the switch was included.

 

I need to check rockauto, last places I looked it was like $70. Good info

 

ty for the info but the pedal has to be fully down in order for it to engage. If I let up just a bit it will not do anything. I will look at if old or newer I have but the clutch does fully engage...

 

From what I can tell, your year would be the new design, switch on the pushrod. Prime suspect in this case would be the pedal box bushings and/or eyelet bushing. When they wear, it doesn't automatically mean it affects clutch disengagement.

Quick & dirty pedal box bushing test - LIGHTLY touch the brake pedal with your right foot, then work the clutch pedal with your left foot. If you feel any "feedback" in your right foot on the brake pedal from the clutch pedal movement, that indicates pedal box bushing wear.

Also, do you feel any "slop" in the clutch pedal action? Sometimes it can come on so gradually that you don't even notice it.

 

Take a look up under the dash. Push the clutch pedal and look at the linkage that goes through he firewall. There will or should be a plastic bushing between the eye and the pin. If the bushing or pin is missing/worn then that will cause this too