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if you tighten the nut too much...it's a matter of feeling,
i think.
I try to expalin, the bolt holds two halfes of a bearing inside the joint.
thats what I find inside the column in seach of the slag I have.
first I thought I don't have a tilt 'cos the wheel don't move even I push the turning light handle foreward. I disassamble the column and find a not working tilt machanism (fix it) and that joint.
I made a video of it, but don't know how to post it here.
Don't forget the ever popular frame crack at the box too.........
I have new everything, Radius arm and IFS arm bushings, Ball joints, Rod ends Wheel bearings, Everything. Still got slop, But I may pull the radiator and core support, pull the box to inspect the frame for the crack and go with a Red-Head
hey guys. I was just about to post a thread about loose steering. Glad I found this one. I just picked up a 74 f100 and the steering wheel has about 7 inches of play, even when the truck is stationary. Do you guys think that tie rod ends or wheel bearings could have that much impact on play? Although I see most of you don't recommend adjusting the gearbox, the fellow I bought it from had adjusted it and didn't use a torque wrench. So I thought i'd go ahead and go through it myself and torque it all down proper. I looked though the manual and it doesn't seem too bad to do. My question at the moment is, does anyone have any tips in regards to adjusting the steering?
hey guys. I was just about to post a thread about loose steering. Glad I found this one. I just picked up a 74 f100 and the steering wheel has about 7 inches of play, even when the truck is stationary. Do you guys think that tie rod ends or wheel bearings could have that much impact on play? Although I see most of you don't recommend adjusting the gearbox, the fellow I bought it from had adjusted it and didn't use a torque wrench. So I thought i'd go ahead and go through it myself and torque it all down proper. I looked though the manual and it doesn't seem too bad to do. My question at the moment is, does anyone have any tips in regards to adjusting the steering?
Tie rods can add quite a bit more so if they are all bad.
Wheel bearings not so much unless the bearings are shot like not there but you would have bad braking as the drum(s) or rotor(s) would be moving all over the place and pushing the wheel cly or caliper back in so the first push of the brake would be to push them back out and you would have a low pedal.
You best bet is to find a helper and have them turn the wheel back n forth and you look for any play starting at the input shaft of the steering box.
Dave ----
thanks fuzz face. I want to apologize, I thought i was in the forum for 73-79 f100's. I typed in "steering" in the search bar and it must've taken me out of that group. The brakes feel fine, for manual brakes. To be fair I only drove it home, but that was a good 40 minutes. I don't mind doing the tie rod ends, I just know after that I'll have to get it aligned, i guess that's not a big deal. I know there is at least a brand new rag joint on it. The fellow was trying to fix it before he sold it to me. so i'll start with the tie rod ends, wiggle the tires to check for play to ensure bearings are fine, then i'll go from there. I got a lot of work on my hands with this beast, the steering is just the most pressing i think. Thanks for your help.I'll let you know what i find
I just picked up a 74 f100 and the steering wheel has about 7 inches of play, even when the truck is stationary. Do you guys think that tie rod ends or wheel bearings could have that much impact on play?
Check and see where the slop is. Don't forget the rag joint, if that's toast that could be all of your slop right there.
if you tighten the nut too much...it's a matter of feeling,
i think.
I try to expalin, the bolt holds two halfes of a bearing inside the joint.
thats what I find inside the column in seach of the slag I have.
first I thought I don't have a tilt 'cos the wheel don't move even I push the turning light handle foreward. I disassamble the column and find a not working tilt machanism (fix it) and that joint.
I made a video of it, but don't know how to post it here.
hardy
Thanks! I wasn't aware of that.
As for posting video, I put it on YouTube and then share that.
Is there a way to check or measure the slack between the input shaft and the output shaft of the power steering gear?
My original was leaking, and really sloppy. I could wiggle/rotate the steering shaft back and forth quite a bit, and the pitman arm didn't budge. OK, so I ordered a reman gearbox from Napa, installed it, and it's still really sloppy. It might be a little better, but barely. I can't turn the steering wheel and watch the steering gearbox at the same time, so what I've been doing is rotating the steering shaft with an adjustable wrench, and I can wiggle the input shaft quite a bit in either direction before the pitman arm actually moves.
I'd like to think that these things are supposed to be tighter than this. I can post up a video, but not for a day or two when I get back home.
Has anybody seen this before with a reman box? Are they junk and I'm just finding out now after I installed one?...lol.
Rag joint is fine, and the steering linkages seem OK. I have a tiny bit of play in the passenger wheel...feels like wheel bearing. This thing handles like a hay wagon though, and even if it IS 30+ years old, I think it should be better than it is. Am I nuts?...lol.
If you are not happy with the rebuilt box, take it back and get another one.
I finding out "rebuilt" means different things to different stores and companies. Thank goodness for parts changers. They are the only way to get a decent rebuilt part, because there was never really anything wrong with it in the first place. It's the parts that are really bad that you get a hold of sometimes, and they are supposed to be "rebuilt".
The Ford/Saginaw P/S gearbox has a flaw, there are no bearings on the sector shaft, it rides directly on the housing. Before too long, fluid begins leaking from the sector shaft seal.
Red Head Steering Gears (Seattle WA) machines the housing to install the needle bearings that FoMoCo eliminated, so they could sell a gazillion sector shaft seal kits.
Auto parts store so-called "rebuilt" steering gearboxes are nothing more than resealed gearboxes.
But, before I'd replace the gearbox, I would check the condition of the steering coupler aka rag joint.
This coupler is located between the lower steering shaft and the input shaft of the gearbox.
It either has a round nylon flange or a rubber piece on it that cracks apart (nylon), or age cracks/tears (rubber) causing loosey-goosey steering.
Other causes of loosey-goosey steering are a worn out draglink, and/or tie rod ends.
Most reman boxes only get the seals replaced, and usually are only machined and really repaired if they leak. A Motorcraft reman will be repaired to Ford standards, though Redheads are a very good option too
Thanks for the replies, much appreciated. The rag joint appears to be OK. I removed it and cleaned it while I had the steering gear out.
I guess I have to figure out how to go about this. I don't mind swapping the box again, but I don't want another one that will be the same looseness. If they'll give me my money back, I'll buy a red head box. We'll see, I guess.
I've already given them my old box to get my core charge back.
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