Brake Bleeders
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Brake Bleeders
I have a '86 Fod Bronco that I have changed the brake lines on and the brakes will not stiffen up (they weren't that good before the switch either). The master cylinder leaks a couple thimble full after driving and it seems to pull a little while braking, but both the disc are shiny so the calipers are not locked. The pedal is still soft even if something is going on otherwise. I have tried bleeding having someone pump the brakes 5-10 times and hold it while I bled it and repeated 10 times on each bleeder screw using 32 oz of fluid, but apparently I did something wrong.
All of this to say, have any of y'all used any brake bleeding vacuum kits and which ones would you recommend?
All of this to say, have any of y'all used any brake bleeding vacuum kits and which ones would you recommend?
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Don't think you did anything wrong with your bleeding technique although I don't like to "pump" the brakes....that's just me, though.
The M/C shouldn't leak at all. From where is it leaking? If it's from the connections, loosen then re-tighten....especially ss lines/fittings....they need to "seat" a bit after changing to 'em. If the leak is from the rear of the M/C where it connects to the booster, it's bad.
Notice any smoke in the exhaust?
How does the booster feel? Try this to check it: With the engine running, step on the brakes, hold it, then shut off the engine. The pedal shouldn't depress more than 0.25" - 0.50". If it does, the booster isn't holding vacuum. Again, with the engine off, pump the pedal a coupla times and hold. Start the engine and take note of what the brake pedal does. If it moves to the floor, or, moves much, the booster isn't holding vacuum.
Replace.
The M/C shouldn't leak at all. From where is it leaking? If it's from the connections, loosen then re-tighten....especially ss lines/fittings....they need to "seat" a bit after changing to 'em. If the leak is from the rear of the M/C where it connects to the booster, it's bad.
Notice any smoke in the exhaust?
How does the booster feel? Try this to check it: With the engine running, step on the brakes, hold it, then shut off the engine. The pedal shouldn't depress more than 0.25" - 0.50". If it does, the booster isn't holding vacuum. Again, with the engine off, pump the pedal a coupla times and hold. Start the engine and take note of what the brake pedal does. If it moves to the floor, or, moves much, the booster isn't holding vacuum.
Replace.
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Don't think you did anything wrong with your bleeding technique although I don't like to "pump" the brakes....that's just me, though.
The M/C shouldn't leak at all. From where is it leaking? If it's from the connections, loosen then re-tighten....especially ss lines/fittings....they need to "seat" a bit after changing to 'em. If the leak is from the rear of the M/C where it connects to the booster, it's bad.
Notice any smoke in the exhaust?
How does the booster feel? Try this to check it: With the engine running, step on the brakes, hold it, then shut off the engine. The pedal shouldn't depress more than 0.25" - 0.50". If it does, the booster isn't holding vacuum. Again, with the engine off, pump the pedal a coupla times and hold. Start the engine and take note of what the brake pedal does. If it moves to the floor, or, moves much, the booster isn't holding vacuum.
Replace.
The M/C shouldn't leak at all. From where is it leaking? If it's from the connections, loosen then re-tighten....especially ss lines/fittings....they need to "seat" a bit after changing to 'em. If the leak is from the rear of the M/C where it connects to the booster, it's bad.
Notice any smoke in the exhaust?
How does the booster feel? Try this to check it: With the engine running, step on the brakes, hold it, then shut off the engine. The pedal shouldn't depress more than 0.25" - 0.50". If it does, the booster isn't holding vacuum. Again, with the engine off, pump the pedal a coupla times and hold. Start the engine and take note of what the brake pedal does. If it moves to the floor, or, moves much, the booster isn't holding vacuum.
Replace.
I think you got it with the vacuum leak. When I pumped it with the engine running and then shut of the engine the pedal compressed a long way.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,698
Likes: 7
From: Taxachusetts
Also, check the booster rod for length/adjustment on the old one and compare it to the new one when you get it.....
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 25
If the master is leaking from the cap you most likely have a bad master, it is bypassing internally, pumping from one chamber to the other, causing one chamber to "overflow" and is also your soft pedal problem. Replace it.
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OK, so they should never leak correct? someone told me one of my calipers was probably leaking causing this, but my rotors are shiny so I don't think that is the case, though the truck does seem to shimmy when braking.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 25
They should never leak from the cap, a leaking caliper could cause a soft pedal but not a leak from the MC cap. Also just because the rotors are shiny you could still have a bad caliper, but I would replace the MC first. You may find that the MC is also leaking into the booster so you could also have a booster problem.
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