Do the oil change and the plugs like sandman2102 said. Take the carb apart and using the diagram above check to make sure all the parts are present and in place. Check the passageway under the needle valve(part#13) to make sure no gunk is holding the needle valve open! When you put it back together have a friend use the diagram as a check list to make sure all the parts are correctly installed. After that try to start it again. These carbs are not high tech. You can do this. Take your time, double check or have someone check your work as you're doing it, or do both. Then post a video to show us your work!

 

Thank you all so much for the responses. I did use all new parts in the carb. The only thing that wasn't new is the jets and jet ports, I believe that's what they're called. We couldn't get the jets out of the carb, almost like they're stuck or welded in. Wish they had more than just the flat-head to put in and remove them. Be nice if they were set up for a socket in case the flat-head failed. I will pull the carb back off today and try to re-check all those options y'all gave me. I suppose when someone does their first engine they should have issues like this. I've been rebuilding it for over a year now and was excited I was on the last stretch. Unfortunately it seems every step I get closer to the finish line someone just moves it farther away from me. Thanks again for all your help. I will try to post a video if I can learn how to do it. Took me a little while to figure out how to post a picture, and seems it posted doubles of them all.

 

The out side of the carbs looks cleaner then the inside throat areas.
What type of carb cleaner was used, a spray can of carb cleaner?

I'd go buy a new float for one thing then do a listed above.
Power valve in under the little cap with 4 little screws on the underside of carb see #41 of Jeffs detailed layout picture.

Was their any left over parts after rebuilding the carb. Sometime guys don't really know where all the parts go so they don't get put in..

Orich

 

Common misconception, but plastic floats are actually Nitrophyl floats which is a closed cell foam plastic. They can't possibly leak.
Elastomer Components Products - Rogers Corp
If the power valve is torn or seriously over torqued it could provide the path direct into the intake as the two ports that come from it exit below the throttle plates. Get the Ford kit and rebuild the carb again. Also use the little black plunger on the bowl vent. Crappy material in cheaper gasket sets sometimes just rip for no real reason other than it was crap to start with.

 

Well Ok, but they get fuel logged and sink? I dunno...have always used brass. Mikes Carbs recommends swapping them out if I remember right. Maybe he just wants to sell floats. Or, maybe corn juice doesn't play well with the stuff like everything else.

 

In post #6 pictures # 1 & 3 there is an arm on top of the carb that should have a rubber stopper. I believe this is a breather? With that open I think fuel will leak into the engine asvsoon as you shut it off. I would suggest getting a rebuilt carb and turning that one in as a core.

 

2x back in the 70 my GM Q-jet kept flooding fuel logged float.

My X in-laws 2100 autolite fuel logged float flooded also.

I take brass.

 

The port on top is just a vent. The little plunger is an early emissions device just to keep raw gas from venting out all the time. When you activate the ACC pump the plunger lifts to allow air into the bowl so you do not create a vacuum. Older carbs just have the hole, though it is smaller, and no plunger. This was a late 67 -70 feature. It would not cause the fuel to drain out of the bowl.
I have never had a plastic float fail. I have had brass fail. That being said I do not automatically replace brass when I come across it. I recently picked up a 66 Holley 650 with brass floats. They look great so they are staying. I have had many a needle and seat be a piece of crap right out of the box though. The end result there is often mistaken for a sunk float.
The Ford kit has the little black plunger for the bowl vent and a higher quality power valve. Plus the gaskets are actually correct and not just 'close.'
It does look like you have some crud in the bottom of that bowl. Rust from the tank is very common and can screw up a fresh carb rebuild in a hurry. Check the sediment bowl on the fuel pump. If you see crap in there you should replace your gas tank. once they start to rust they just keep going. I always replace the tank when I get a vintage Mustang. Cheap insurance.
Trick for getting out Jets: Use a giant flat blade screw driver and wrap the end with cereal box card board. Jamb that puppy in there so there's no slop. My screwdriver has a square shaft so then I use a crescent wrench to turn while pushing down on the screwdriver. If you still cannot get them out (do not damage them) then get some guitar string and chase the holes from both sides.

 

There are special purpose drivers made to remove jets without damage. Holley sells 'em, tho I found a hollow ground flat blade screwdriver like gunsmiths use works perfect, like about a #17. They have flats to use a wrench as well. It's important not to bugger up jets, just about anything done to them will alter the flow rate. One guy claims he stores them on fishing line, because wire will screw them up.

 

Since the Ford jets are special size, I ended up buying the die (5/16-32) and some 3/8 hex stock and make my own. You need a metal lathe, starter drills (00), a short precision demming set and a lot of patience. I wouldn't do it for money. They would be too expensive. As far as the sensitivity of orifice sizes to flow, most carbs can span several sizes with no 'noticeable' performance change. I doubt scratching the bore on one will do anything that is measurable by anything but the most sophisticated equipment. The hole size and flow channel length defines the resistance of the jet. That's it. Boogering up the crown does nothing to that, not that I would recommend that as a methodology. The Holley tool will only work on pre 64 carbs as they had the Holley sized jets. That tool (and I have one) will not work on the Ford jets. Lots of lore around carbs. Lots and lots of lore. I used to think carbs were voodoo. Then I read everything I could find on them, and rebuilt a bunch of them. Lots of contradictory statements between sources. Shop Tips from Ford (back in the day) had lots of great info. Also there is plenty of factory literature (not just Ford) dedicated to carbs alone.

 

Seems to me that the threads on the holly jets were strange ones too. Something like 1/4 X 32.