Sputtering on new build
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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Sputtering on new build
My rebuilt engine has yet to see the road since it was rebuilt last summer. However, I have been starting it up sort of regularly to keep the fuel from varnishing up, etc.
Some of the starts are pretty easy and the truck purrs nicely. Others, and most of the time these days, the engine will catch pretty easily, but smokes badly (makes your eyes water after a little while even with garage door, back door and multiple fans blowing.
I have tried manually opening the choke and not much difference.
Today, after trying to run it yesterday, I pulled the carb and fuel pump. Could not detect any sources of leaks around the carb. However, there was next to no fuel in the line from the manual fuel pump. Fuel pump had very little fuel in too.
I have noticed a noise I cannot describe sometimes after shutting it down - like it wheezing and it seems to come from the fuel line/pump.
Some of the starts are pretty easy and the truck purrs nicely. Others, and most of the time these days, the engine will catch pretty easily, but smokes badly (makes your eyes water after a little while even with garage door, back door and multiple fans blowing.
I have tried manually opening the choke and not much difference.
Today, after trying to run it yesterday, I pulled the carb and fuel pump. Could not detect any sources of leaks around the carb. However, there was next to no fuel in the line from the manual fuel pump. Fuel pump had very little fuel in too.
I have noticed a noise I cannot describe sometimes after shutting it down - like it wheezing and it seems to come from the fuel line/pump.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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Likes: 72
I noticed in an image of an older Ford in-line six, that the fuel pump was installed with the filter hanging down. Can't recall, since I am not in front of mine at the moment, if that would be an option on the 240/300.
Would it matter?
In hindsight, that was a stupid idea. I just remembered that the design of the pump would preclude that installation approach from working.
Would it matter?
In hindsight, that was a stupid idea. I just remembered that the design of the pump would preclude that installation approach from working.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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Fuel pump does the trick
Swapped out the fuel pump this afternoon. Back to a nice, smooth running straight six.
Need to pop the filter off the old one and see if it was clogged or something. Guessing it just went bad.
Need to pop the filter off the old one and see if it was clogged or something. Guessing it just went bad.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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Likes: 72
Question regarding break in oil
This truck has been sitting in the garage for the most part since rebuilding the engine about a year ago. Maybe 5 to 7 hours of runtime at varying rpms since rebuilding. Should I go ahead and dump the break in oil or leave it a while longer?
it won't be seeing the road anytime soon.
it won't be seeing the road anytime soon.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
5 to 7 hours?? Most builders strongly recommend to avoid running a rebuilt engine (beyond the 20 minute cam breakin) the idea is to get it under load asap for proper ring seat and avoid cylinder glazing.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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I was of the understanding (not bright enough on the subject to have an opinion) that the break-in oil was used for about 500 miles.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yes, a lot of builders will change the oil right away, or at least the filter. Never mind that for now.
The idea is to get the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls as soon as practical. Avoid extensive idling, because the rings are not properly seated. There's a lot of blowby when they are new. Otherwise the likelihood is that motor will be a permanent "oil burner", and low on power, and lifespan. Full throttle pulls on the dyno is how a lot of the pros do it, believe it or not. There is some debate on whether to "baby" a newly rebuilt engine, I guess, but not much.
The rings will not seat properly except under load, if the cylinders glaze over it's a bad deal, and there's only one chance to do it basically.
The idea is to get the piston rings to seat against the cylinder walls as soon as practical. Avoid extensive idling, because the rings are not properly seated. There's a lot of blowby when they are new. Otherwise the likelihood is that motor will be a permanent "oil burner", and low on power, and lifespan. Full throttle pulls on the dyno is how a lot of the pros do it, believe it or not. There is some debate on whether to "baby" a newly rebuilt engine, I guess, but not much.
The rings will not seat properly except under load, if the cylinders glaze over it's a bad deal, and there's only one chance to do it basically.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2014
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For grins I backed the truck partially out of the garage, brought the engine up to about twice or more idle (no tach) and set the idle adjustment screw there. Ran it for 10 minutes and then shut down to normal idle for 5 minutes and then shut it down. Let it sit about 15 minutes and brought it up to double idle or thereabouts for 20 minutes, let it idle normally for 5 minutes and shut it down.
Over the weekend I will drop the break-in oil and put in good ole 30 weight (I think, have to look it up).
It is a joy to listen to this engine and the fact when you turn it off, it shuts right down is nice. Could feel some vibration at the fast idle, but not sure if it was more associated with engine or frame.
Over the weekend I will drop the break-in oil and put in good ole 30 weight (I think, have to look it up).
It is a joy to listen to this engine and the fact when you turn it off, it shuts right down is nice. Could feel some vibration at the fast idle, but not sure if it was more associated with engine or frame.
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