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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

bypassing P starter lockout

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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 02:05 PM
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bypassing P starter lockout

hi folks,
the automatic shift lever on my '93 is a bit loose, and while i can always put it in P or D as needed, sometimes i have to jiggle it just right to get it to start, and sometimes i can't make it start at all -- a buzzer sounds as if i were in gear already.

i'd like to fix the loose shift lever, but i really need to move the truck. which wires can i connect, or install my own switch, to disable the starter lockout? am i even right that the switch is on the column and not on the transmission? thanks!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 02:13 PM
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Put the key into the on position and jump the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 02:23 PM
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Tighten the 2 torx screws at the back of the steering column that the shifter linkage hooks too, they always come loose.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ifrythings
Tighten the 2 torx screws at the back of the steering column that the shifter linkage hooks too, they always come loose.
good call. i just tried this, and the screws were indeed a bit loose, but afterwards the cylindrical assembly is still itself moving loosely. it pivots somewhere near its center; i can't see what's meant to hold it in place. the linkage with the shift cable seems intact and i couldn't see anything else problematic from below. where would you folks look next?

trying again with the starter solenoid tip... first trip out there i didn't have anything long enough to reach it.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bricktron
trying again with the starter solenoid tip... first trip out there i didn't have anything long enough to reach it.
i got sparks, and i got the starter to spin but disengaged, and... i would much rather connect two wires, if i knew where the damn lockout switch was actually located. does anyone know? this is a column-shift automatic 1993 F-150.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2017 | 06:15 PM
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Just be real careful when jumping the starter solenoid like that, cause the truck WILL take off on you if it happens to be in gear when you do that.

The starter safety switch will be on the transmission. If you have an AOD it will be a (5?) pin connector which also has the reverse light circuit in it.

If you have any other automatic the starter circuit goes thru a device on the transmission which may be called a NSS (Neutral Safety Switch), TRS (Transmission Range Sensor) or MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) depending on who you ask! The reason I tell you this is so that you can use the various names when doing a search, which you will have to do because I can't tell you exactly which wires to bypass off the top of my head.

But... IF (big IF) I remember right... the starter circuit will be blue with a red stripe. It should be the same color wire that you see connected to the small terminal on the solenoid on the fender. Regardless of the color, when you find which wires they are if you connect them together you can start the truck regardless of what gear it's in.

Obviously be careful after doing this modification.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 05:30 PM
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hi folks, thanks for your help. i decided it was the shifter tube bushings and after not finding them at o'reilly, went to the dealership. the parts guy convinced me that i should replace the whole tube assembly, and so $290 and several hours later, i can again shift. cheers!

PS - the tube and plunger did not appear to be cracked, but i am not totally unhappy about having all new shifter hardware.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 05:34 PM
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Oh man... $290 for that!? I guess that's not too steep of a price for a stealership parts department. I just made my own bushings. Worked fine til I got rid of the truck.

Anyway, good job on the repair. Sure is nice to not have to hunt for each position.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2017 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dixie460
Oh man... $290 for that!? I guess that's not too steep of a price for a stealership parts department. I just made my own bushings. Worked fine til I got rid of the truck.

Anyway, good job on the repair. Sure is nice to not have to hunt for each position.
thanks! to R&R the whole assembly seemed like overkill until the parts guy told me that the tube itself often cracked, and that replacing the whole thing took no more disassembly than doing just the bushings. this is a good outcome as it also resolved the broken overdrive control and loose wires coming out the end of the shift lever.
 
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