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On my '02 excursion I'm just getting a clicking from the starter when I go to start it half of the time. This is the third starter is a row that has done this, this one being from DB Electric. The batteries are not the issue, and I have replaced the cable ends at both batteries. There is no corrosion in the cables, and I have checked all of the grounds I can find. Whats going on here? I find it hard to believe that a starter from advance, then Napa and now DB are all bad out of the box. Any help
Moving the column or the shifter doesnt have any affect on it. I can put it in Neutral and let it roll down the driveway a bit and that doesnt help either. Its getting a definate click from the starter solenoid but not engaging. If I hadn't already replaced it 3 times I'd be sure that was the issue
I have, both sit at 12.6 tested seperatly. It did this last week, and I took the starter out, put it directly back in and it fired right up. I just replaced the relay under the dash, and still have the same issue
Yours does not have it but where the fender mounted starter relay used to be on the earlier trucks is a weather pack connector. I think its an orange wire one wire plug .
I had an 03 6.uh-oh doing what yours is doing intermittenly and that connector was corroded. Sometimes it would work and other it would not. The only thing I could figure was the voltage drop caused by the corrosion was enough to not engage the solenoid. It drove me crazy. It never acted up again after cleaning that connection.
and I took the starter out, put it directly back in and it fired right up.
Is it possible that the starter was slightly misaligned, and the gear was not allowed to extend out? Then when you R&R'd it, you moved it slightly and temporarily corrected this problem?
Sorry, I'm not super knowledgeable about starters, but doesn't the solenoid have to pop the gear out before the motor starts spinning? And maybe a slight misalignment physically prevents that?
Just a thought. I might try unbolting the starter and suspending it, and grounding it with a jumper cable or something, then see if the gear pops out and the motor spins.
Someone please correct me if I am off-base on this.
Ill check for that weather pack deal and see if anything comes of it. The starter is in there correctly, all the bolts are tight. When its out of the truck I can jump it and it fires right off. I cant really tell but it seems like the starter is engaging when the key is turned just not turning over the motor but Im not sure. Ive put known good batteries in the truck so it cant be them. I appreciate any input you guys have, eventually someone has to suggest the right thing
Ok. I did not know that the EX did not have a starter relay mounted on the passenger fenderwell. I was going to say to put a screwdriver across the main terminals on the relay to ensure the starter was getting voltage.
I replaced my starter because it was bad and I was still having problems getting it to start. I had problems with my positive terminal being wore out on my passenger battery which is the feed thru point for the two batteries. I replaced my cable with OEM from a local stealership( friggin 180$) and I have not had another problem out of it since then. A spoonful of OEM makes the world go round sometimes.
I havent checked the voltage when turning over, but the batteries are two group 31's I took out of one of my IDI's and they start that with no problem, so a Powerstroke should be nothing for them. Ive actually replaced all of the cable ends, except the one at the starter with marine terminals to match my IDI's. I like that setup better anyway. The only wire that I have not cut open and inspected is the one going from the passenger battery to the starter, but the fact that there was 0 corrosion in the rest of the system, minus on the terminal ends, makes it hard to believe that could be clogged up, but who knows. I may end up replacing that tomorrow as well.
I had the same symptoms after changing out a worn starter. What I found was that the thin red wire going to the solenoid at the starter had a kink in it and was broken enough to barely make contact. I found this by using a multitester with the red lead to the end of the red wire and the black to ground. I then measured the DC volts while wiggling the wire and found erratic readings from 0 to 12. I pierced the wire sheathing above the kink and found stable readings. I cut the wire at the piercing, soldered a new terminal to the end and fixed the problem.
Last edited by biblicaltruth; Oct 29, 2012 at 04:25 PM.
Reason: Last sentence needed better detail