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Mine would start fine cold but it crank for a long time when warm. One day it would not start. We added about 1 1/2 pints to the HPOP reservoir and it fired right up but the oil pressure gauge did not move. Soon after it stopped running. This is a quick and easy way to test for a worn out Low Pressure Oil Pump
BBD
I have never been comfortable with doing it this way. Running the engine with no oil pressure in the bottom end can't be good for the bearings. The good thing about these engines is that the hpop system prevents the engine from running when there is no low oil pressure. I am sure that there is a safe amount of time that the engine can be run, but I don't know what it is. It is just something to think about if you try this.
Ok guys I'm having the exact same problem. I have a 2001 F250 7.3. Was running fine yesterday. Stopped to get the mail and it wouldn't start again. When it cooled down started right up.
Went out this morning and it fired right up.
Hooked up AE and it threw two codes that bother me. P1280 which I believe is for the ICP sensor and P0340 for the CPS.
Changed out the CPS and cleared all codes.
I checked the plug for the ICP and there is no oil in it.
where is the tin nut on the IPR and how do I check it. I have gorilla hands.
Just wanting information so I can check these things if I start having start problems again.
The ipr is under the fuel bowl under some wires. I used a 1/4 drive ratchet and a 5/8 socket to get the tin nut off. You need to unplug the wire harness that goes to it. It has a wire clip thing you just pulled up on it and then slide the plug towards the cab. Slide a spacer off aND then the celenoid then need a deep 1 1/8 socket to get the ipr sensor out. It will leak oil. Be prepared with a new oNE or a plug.
Having just done this on my truck, I thought the tin nut was 3/4", I used a box wrench. It retains a spacer/washer that holds the solenoid onto the IPR. You can remove the tin nut & spacer, and then slide the solenoid off the IPR w/o disconnecting the wire. Lets you pull the solenoid and connection up into the daylight so you can make sure the connection is proper. The connector has one of those retaining hoops. The solenoid should be snug within it's metal housing, in my case it was very loose, so no amount of tightening of the tin nut would prevent the solenoid from moving around a bit. I had the same problem as Jody, good start when cold, but once warmed up the engine would stall and not restart, no ICP. I don't think it was related to the loose solenoid however, I replaced the entire IPR. I had previously rebuilt it several years ago.
One of these days I'm going to take pictures when I do stuff...
I have never been comfortable with doing it this way. Running the engine with no oil pressure in the bottom end can't be good for the bearings. .
Thanks for the concern. I will admit that I am by no means an expert on engines.
My thought is that the LPOP pulls oil in from the crankcase and pushes it through the oil filter, then up to the HPOP reservoir where the HPOP pushes it into the rails. Any unused oil in the HPOP reservoir drains back down into the crankcase.
The perplexing question that I have is... Wouldn't the 3 plus gallons of oil in the crankcase be enough to partially submerge the main bearings and protect them through passive lubrication while the engine runs for the few seconds before the HPOP reservoir drains and the engine stops operating? (if the LPOP is in fact worn out).
Is the LPOP providing lubrication to critical components on the lower part of the engine?
Thank you,
BBD
Last edited by Big Black Dually; Feb 18, 2017 at 08:54 AM.
Reason: Switching wording