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Plan on changing out the plugs in my '97 2.3 this weekend. I'll pick up the motorcraft dbl platinums for the swap. I do have a couple questions:
How much of a problem could i cause by doing this without the aid of a torque wrench?
When gapping plugs, where should i measure from-meaning between what two points?
Besides the torque wrench that I do not have, and a socket wrench--what else will I need?
Anything else I need to know for this task?
These may seem like somewhat mundane questions, but I haven't changed plugs since I "worked" on my '69 mustang notchback way back in highschool...man i beat the **** out thing.
I've never used a torque wrench when changin plugs, its probably a good idea though. when i do it i get them in as tight as i can by hand then give them a couple turns with a socket wrench. just make sure when you do it not to put too much pressure on the insulator or it will break off and you will need a new plug. peace
Just tighten until they are snug, don't overtighten. Use dielectric grease on the boots and antisieze on the threads. Do one at a time so you don't mix up the plug wires.
on a 2.3 plan on it takin all day and also have one of those u joint socket things as well as a wire puller. they get very brittle on these little engines. the back one on the drivers side is nearly impossible to get out without taking off the intake. good luck!
You probably already know this but in addition to the di-electric grease and anti-seize compound for the threads as mentioned above, I would be sure that I had a spark plug socket.
94 Ranger XLT-2.3 Spark plug change in under an hour!! Make sure to have a longggg extension and also I have learned, from this site, that a swivel head with a little masking tape around it to stop it from flopping all over helps tons. Dont forget your feeler gauge for the gapping!! Other wise they have u covered
yeah i did my 94 in about an hour but my grandads 97 has different intake that makes it even harder. plus my 94 has no a'c or p/s so it was relatively easy.
the intake on the newer models can be a problem, my father-in-law had a 2000 and it took about 15 minutes for the passenger side and about 2 hours for the drivers side, and he had to disconnect a lot of hoses and wires to get at the last couple, one good thing ford did on these was to add special wire boots that make it easier to get the plug wires off, - but you still have to use the extension, swivel, extension, curse, swivel, knock knuckles, curse some more method to get the plugs in and out --
all i can say is that, at least its not a front wheel drive,
Yeah, Our dodge minivan you cant even see the back 3 spark plugs or get at them, its almost impossible to change them, so i'm definatly glad i get the ford truck to drive and maintain.
Handle it like Ken00 says and you should not have a problem. The gap is measured between the pos and the neg electrode. If the spark plugs that you are using have a gasket on them you will feel the gasket compress after the plug contacts the head area. The neg electrode is part of the base of the plug and will be connected to the threads. When you tighten them down be sure not to allow the socket twist ****-eyed on the spark plug. You don't want to crack the porcelain. Be sure that the socket that you use has the rubber insulator inside it too.
Hope that this helps,