This... The slight vacuum the engine pulls in the crankcase via the air filter is a good thing, it prevents oil escaping via seals and gaskets. We lost 9qts out of the 7.3 in my 92 on a 80-90 mile drive because the dweeb at quickie lube didnt put the CDR tube back on. It was essentially a RDT, and the lack of vacuum blew all the oil out the apparently bad rear main seal, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets.

The ones who recommend it shouldnt be trusted with a 10 speed bike, because they simply dont understand how the system works and are just proffering up advice to look good. It "cannot" fail closed, if it were to fail, it would fail open, as that is its normal position, so it can stick there, or the diaphragm can tear, which would prevent it from closing.

Also this, i ordered and installed gapless rings in order to run a RDT, not because i wanted an RDT, or even to get rid of the CDR, but just to keep oil from building up in the intercooler and turbo.

Refer to my first response. CDR: Crank-case, Decompression, Regulator. All it is, is a diaphragm with a spring. Under high rpm / high crank-case vacuum situations, it prevents the intake from pulling too much vacuum in the crank-case, which can damage seals and gaskets, and potentially let the engine run-away. IMHO they dont need a CDR, but the gasses do need to be routed into the intake for a multitude of reasons. The later 7.3, 6.0 and 6.4 all route the crank-case gasses into the intake, and they are intercooled from the factory. However, from what ive gathered, the 6.0 and on, used much tighter ring gaps, and even more effective valve seals to reduce "blow-by". An IDI will burn oil all day, literally as fuel. The only way to experience blue smoke, is if the oil is introduced into the exhaust after combustion. That can only happen from bad valve seals / guides, or the seal on the hotside of the turbo. In the case of the valve seals / guides, a CDR would HELP the situation.

In a nut, keep the CDR, its a good thing, i doubt you can improve on it. There are dozens of stories out and about where people have went RDT and regretted it, because for some reason people think its a bad thing (i cant think of one)

 

You are likely to increase crankcase pressure with a road draft tube as compared to any of the common vent setups using a CDR, if you simply extend a hose to some point on the vehicle from the existing vent location. A road draft tube will not be sucking fumes out at low speed or if not run properly. You will likely need to add another vent to not pressurize the crankcase at idle, and to allow air to flow through the engine at higher speeds. Increased pressure in the crankcase can result in oil leaks.

 

Very good info I appreciate it and I'll leave her as she is

 

if your fully warmed up mechanical injected diesel smokes blue or whitish blue, and smells like unburnt fuel at idle, you have one or more bad injectors, bleeding it wont help, asking the PO if he changed any thing is a bad place to go...a new injector can be bad,, it happens,, a mechanical injected diesel with good injectors, will run on moter oil/diesel blend and not smoke or stink. fuel or oil entering the chamber before or after the combustion event will cause smoke and stink. whether from valve guides, or rings, the difference is how it smells,, CDR in most cases will not make a engine smoke unless malfunctioning or the engine is way way worn out...

 

No smoke from my exhaust. Just light blueish once started. Was just reading on other people smoke issues

 

Uh... you mean light bluish smoke only just after starting? For how long?

 

A few seconds. It might be whiteish

 

Chances are that you've got a single failed glow plug, or it's not working /quite/ right -- loose glow plug connections can cause it too.
That's what I noticed on my own rig.

If the glow plugs are all working fine, don't worry too much about it.

 

I'm not worried about it. Just making a observation :-) I believe my glow plugs work. Not sure haha I've had air issues for the truck not to start so it's hard to tell

 

Just take a piece of wire, strip both ends, put one end on B+.
Take the other and touch it to each glow plug terminal(unplugging it first).
If you get a spark out of it, it's good. If not, it's bad. You'll quickly see 'good' from 'bad'.

Also, if you get one that sparks differently than all the rest(little sparks vs big sparks), that one should be replaced as well.