blowing oil out of the oil cap?
#2
Your PCV valve is stuck! It's the thingy that is stuck into the valve cover with a hose attached to it and goes to the back of the carb or intake manifold. Pull it out and clean it with carb cleaner, shake it to make sure that it rattles (it's supposed to rattle) and re-install it. Or just go buy a new one, take the old one with you, they only cost $4. Check all your hoses and replace the cracked broken ones and you should be fine.
#3
#4
True. If the PCV unit checks out good or is repaired, you can then remove the oil filler cap and see how much air/smoke is being pumped out of the engine. Put your hand over the filler hole and bring the rpm's up a little and you should not have a LOT of air coming out. If the air is really smokey then it could be a stuck ring and sucking up oil into the combustion chamber and burning it. Either way, it's not that big of a deal, just drive the truck around for a while and usually a ring will loosen itself up, and if it's using a lot of oil, it's just an old engine...use it for what it's worth, it will still serve you well.
#5
sounds like a ring problem, builds to much crankcase pressure! and check your hoses.
check for a hole in top of the piston on any cylinder. i've seen it before! run compression test and if find dead cylinder you have found it. then pull the head off and look. it is possible to have a hole in the top of a piston. would build exessive crankcase pressure and it will blow oil out just about everywhere that isn't sealed!!
ford ranger
check for a hole in top of the piston on any cylinder. i've seen it before! run compression test and if find dead cylinder you have found it. then pull the head off and look. it is possible to have a hole in the top of a piston. would build exessive crankcase pressure and it will blow oil out just about everywhere that isn't sealed!!
ford ranger
#7
but if the engine ran allright before then we can rule out the hole in the piston.
i'd run a compression test first. run a dry test then a wet test. record your dry test readings. if you have a few rings that are stuck to the pistons, your readings will be low.on the cylinders that are stuck. second squirt about a tablespoon of motor oil in the cylinders your are testing, just one at a time! some of the reading my should go up!
and yes this test may get messy. before you run the test disable the ignition,and the fuel, pull all the spark plugs.[ note where all the plugs and wires go before you do this so you don't get them confused. otherwise your firing order is going to be off] second open the throttle wide open, and keep it open throughout the test. dry and wet, and you will get a charge of fuel in the intake, you may want crank the engine over for about 5-10 seconds to dry it out first. then run your dry test. record your results on paper, the after you've run your dry test, run your wet test. then compare your results, if the rings are sealing the way they should, your readings should almost double.
depending on the engine and its displacement. or c.i.d. thats how you find out if you have a stuck ring or rings. most gas engines houver around 150-175 psi, diesels 350-450 psi. example if you have #1 cylinder is 150 and #2 is 170 is normal. anything over that isnot normal. or if #1 is 50psi and #2 is 170psi there is a problem.
hey where here to help. if nothing else post your results. make sure you tell us if it gas or diesel,the number of cylinders or displacement, or cubic inch displacement.
i use 10w30 castrol oil when i do a wet compression test. anotherthing i did not mention is to change the oil and filter first that helps alot, and add a quart of dexron3 to the oil helps as well. dexron is high detergent. helps clean rust and other deposits,but don't run it very long, on old motors you will spin a bearing. usually 500 miles does it. then change the oil and filter again, then put straight oil in it.
ford ranger
aka the jackman
i'd run a compression test first. run a dry test then a wet test. record your dry test readings. if you have a few rings that are stuck to the pistons, your readings will be low.on the cylinders that are stuck. second squirt about a tablespoon of motor oil in the cylinders your are testing, just one at a time! some of the reading my should go up!
and yes this test may get messy. before you run the test disable the ignition,and the fuel, pull all the spark plugs.[ note where all the plugs and wires go before you do this so you don't get them confused. otherwise your firing order is going to be off] second open the throttle wide open, and keep it open throughout the test. dry and wet, and you will get a charge of fuel in the intake, you may want crank the engine over for about 5-10 seconds to dry it out first. then run your dry test. record your results on paper, the after you've run your dry test, run your wet test. then compare your results, if the rings are sealing the way they should, your readings should almost double.
depending on the engine and its displacement. or c.i.d. thats how you find out if you have a stuck ring or rings. most gas engines houver around 150-175 psi, diesels 350-450 psi. example if you have #1 cylinder is 150 and #2 is 170 is normal. anything over that isnot normal. or if #1 is 50psi and #2 is 170psi there is a problem.
hey where here to help. if nothing else post your results. make sure you tell us if it gas or diesel,the number of cylinders or displacement, or cubic inch displacement.
i use 10w30 castrol oil when i do a wet compression test. anotherthing i did not mention is to change the oil and filter first that helps alot, and add a quart of dexron3 to the oil helps as well. dexron is high detergent. helps clean rust and other deposits,but don't run it very long, on old motors you will spin a bearing. usually 500 miles does it. then change the oil and filter again, then put straight oil in it.
ford ranger
aka the jackman
Trending Topics
#9
Sometimes a quart of transmission fluid in the oilpan will loosen things up.Pour a quart down the carb also to loosen the rings. Warm it up well and slowly pour the transmission fluid down the carb as you open the throttle. Increase the amount of trans fluid as you open the throttle to keep the rpms down. when you are almost out of fluid let it stall. Leave it overnight.If it is beat and full of carbon this will be the end of it.If it is just stuck this should fix it.Either way What have you got to lose?
#10
cool guys,
but, you want to keep the rpms up when you do this process. and do it outside for the simple reason that you will hydrostaticly lock the engine up. and you don't want that, because it will bend rods or a crankshaft. and it will smoke like crazy. this is why
is said do it outside! it will smoke like hell!! white smoke, and alot of it! just do a little at time. and you should be allright. won't hurt anything. but, there will be a lot of smoke. anything short of that is a rebuild. straight up. i came from the salvage yard in my day. and i've seen alot of engines just sit in the wheather. and rust. even if the motor is covered it will still rust. in the cylinders you have condensation. it will make piston and rings rust. even if they been sitting for 10 years they still rust.
i hve to go to bed
yell at me later tomarrow
c'ya's
ford ranger
the jackman
bye
but, you want to keep the rpms up when you do this process. and do it outside for the simple reason that you will hydrostaticly lock the engine up. and you don't want that, because it will bend rods or a crankshaft. and it will smoke like crazy. this is why
is said do it outside! it will smoke like hell!! white smoke, and alot of it! just do a little at time. and you should be allright. won't hurt anything. but, there will be a lot of smoke. anything short of that is a rebuild. straight up. i came from the salvage yard in my day. and i've seen alot of engines just sit in the wheather. and rust. even if the motor is covered it will still rust. in the cylinders you have condensation. it will make piston and rings rust. even if they been sitting for 10 years they still rust.
i hve to go to bed
yell at me later tomarrow
c'ya's
ford ranger
the jackman
bye
#11
cool guys,
but, you want to keep the rpms up when you do this process. and do it outside for the simple reason that you will hydrostaticly lock the engine up. and you don't want that, because it will bend rods or a crankshaft. and it will smoke like crazy. this is why
is said do it outside! it will smoke like hell!! white smoke, and alot of it! just do a little at time. and you should be allright. won't hurt anything. but, there will be a lot of smoke. anything short of that is a rebuild. straight up. i came from the salvage yard in my day. and i've seen alot of engines just sit in the wheather. and rust. even if the motor is covered it will still rust. in the cylinders you have condensation. it will make piston and rings rust. even if they been sitting for 10 years they still rust.
i hve to go to bed
yell at me later tomarrow
c'ya's
ford ranger
the jackman
bye
but, you want to keep the rpms up when you do this process. and do it outside for the simple reason that you will hydrostaticly lock the engine up. and you don't want that, because it will bend rods or a crankshaft. and it will smoke like crazy. this is why
is said do it outside! it will smoke like hell!! white smoke, and alot of it! just do a little at time. and you should be allright. won't hurt anything. but, there will be a lot of smoke. anything short of that is a rebuild. straight up. i came from the salvage yard in my day. and i've seen alot of engines just sit in the wheather. and rust. even if the motor is covered it will still rust. in the cylinders you have condensation. it will make piston and rings rust. even if they been sitting for 10 years they still rust.
i hve to go to bed
yell at me later tomarrow
c'ya's
ford ranger
the jackman
bye
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