Results and Pics From First 5vr Pull with my 2017 F250
#1
Results and Pics From First 5vr Pull with my 2017 F250
I wanted to document this here for anyone coming behind me wondering about a fairly heavy 5vr with their F250. I also have some questions and I'll start with them.
1. I went to air up my rear tires to 80psi and my little pump -- which connects directly to the battery -- was taking 1 minute per psi over 60. So I tried 3 different gas stations and all of their air only went up to 70. How do you guys get and keep your tires at 80?
2. The only issue I'm left with is the nose high attitude of the 5vr -- which you'll see in the pics. Because of my awesome airbags (with 70psi in them) even with the 5vr on the hitch I had factory wheel well heights ~44" and rake. So I'm thinking I can back off on the air a little bit and let the truck squat an inch or so -- but that's not going to fix this. So my questions are -- how important is it that I level it -- and how can I do it?
For reference, I raised my hitch to its highest setting because I only had 4" of clearance between the bed rails and the nose cap. Now I have 6 at the pin, but only 5 at the tailgate because of the nose high attitude I guess?
The experience:
I have to say that I love my truck! I didn't have a worry in the world pulling this trailer. No sway, no more than a gentle nudge from Semi Trucks passing me, no problem around corners. For the most part I had it in cruise at 65 but tried 70 just to see what that looked like...and I started hearing kind of a growl...I don't know what that was...air around the nose cap...too much for the trailer? The sound was coming from behind. So I just settled for 65 and it was like the rig and I were born to be together.
Power? Heck yes! Entering the toll road there's a fairly significant grade and I was accelerating nicely. That 6.7L answers anybody's question about gasser vs diesel in terms of power and sound.
The brakes on the trailer were awesome and I had absolutely no trouble stopping.
My truck not only pulls this with ease, I'm certain it could pull a whole lot more. I'm convinced I have no need for the sway bar, and I'm in no hurry to buy a DRW now because nothing happened that would make me think I would want/need one.
I'm still 1,000# under my (7,000# wheel limit) and if I were to change the wheels I could still go up to 7,500#. So I'm absolutely fine on weight.
I'd like to say I don't have a problem in the towing world, but I do wonder about this nose high attitude.
Suggestions / comments would be much appreciated please and thank you!!!
1. I went to air up my rear tires to 80psi and my little pump -- which connects directly to the battery -- was taking 1 minute per psi over 60. So I tried 3 different gas stations and all of their air only went up to 70. How do you guys get and keep your tires at 80?
2. The only issue I'm left with is the nose high attitude of the 5vr -- which you'll see in the pics. Because of my awesome airbags (with 70psi in them) even with the 5vr on the hitch I had factory wheel well heights ~44" and rake. So I'm thinking I can back off on the air a little bit and let the truck squat an inch or so -- but that's not going to fix this. So my questions are -- how important is it that I level it -- and how can I do it?
For reference, I raised my hitch to its highest setting because I only had 4" of clearance between the bed rails and the nose cap. Now I have 6 at the pin, but only 5 at the tailgate because of the nose high attitude I guess?
The experience:
I have to say that I love my truck! I didn't have a worry in the world pulling this trailer. No sway, no more than a gentle nudge from Semi Trucks passing me, no problem around corners. For the most part I had it in cruise at 65 but tried 70 just to see what that looked like...and I started hearing kind of a growl...I don't know what that was...air around the nose cap...too much for the trailer? The sound was coming from behind. So I just settled for 65 and it was like the rig and I were born to be together.
Power? Heck yes! Entering the toll road there's a fairly significant grade and I was accelerating nicely. That 6.7L answers anybody's question about gasser vs diesel in terms of power and sound.
The brakes on the trailer were awesome and I had absolutely no trouble stopping.
My truck not only pulls this with ease, I'm certain it could pull a whole lot more. I'm convinced I have no need for the sway bar, and I'm in no hurry to buy a DRW now because nothing happened that would make me think I would want/need one.
I'm still 1,000# under my (7,000# wheel limit) and if I were to change the wheels I could still go up to 7,500#. So I'm absolutely fine on weight.
I'd like to say I don't have a problem in the towing world, but I do wonder about this nose high attitude.
Suggestions / comments would be much appreciated please and thank you!!!
#2
Is there an option for a different size tire for your RV? Like a taller tire for example? That's about the only way I can thing of to help off set your rake on the 5th wheel. The rear needs to come up some if the rake is bothering your. Personally I don't think its all that excessive in my opinion...... Now for the truck I think you could let a little bit of air out of your bags to make it come down a little in the front but that really depends on you. As far as filling up tires with air I have a 5hp air compressor at home and use it but on the road you might stop in at a truck stop and use their air to fill up your tires. Around me Flying J's has air at the RV pumps to do that.... Another place to get air is at tire shops like Goodyear,Firestone,places like that. Mom & Pop auto repair shops usually have air available around my neck of the woods also........ I think your whole set up is awesome looking too/...............
#3
#4
#5
As for air I carry a 120vac air compressor with me. I let the air out of my tires for a better ride and air back up before the next pull.
I think you have to much air in you bags. Measure the front and try and get the back the same.
Looks like sense the trailer is a rental can't do anything there. But you would want it to be as level as you can.
Power on these trucks will not be a problem. A level rig all the way is the best goal.
I think you have to much air in you bags. Measure the front and try and get the back the same.
Looks like sense the trailer is a rental can't do anything there. But you would want it to be as level as you can.
Power on these trucks will not be a problem. A level rig all the way is the best goal.
#6
#7
I have a compressor at home that I use to air everything up.
I keep my rears at 80 anyway, 70 in front.
Don't forget the trailer. I most likely has e rated ST tires. Air them up to 80 and don't go over 65 mph (rated speed for ST tires)
Lower your airbags to about 30 psi I think would help.
I keep my rears at 80 anyway, 70 in front.
Don't forget the trailer. I most likely has e rated ST tires. Air them up to 80 and don't go over 65 mph (rated speed for ST tires)
Lower your airbags to about 30 psi I think would help.
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#8
I keep a 3 gal compressor with me. As stated above, truck stops, Walmart/Sam's, service stations and tire stores are good choices on the road.
My Open Range road pretty nose high and the F350 FX4 is really high in the rear. There is a 2" block between the axle and springs adding to the height. Options were to check if the trailer axles were above or below the springs. If above, have them flipped to below. Another option was lci1.com/correct-track-ii
The more expensive option was to have the truck lowered. Which involved removing that 2" block and changing the bearing in the drive shaft to insure proper alignment etc. There was a TSB about this, just can't find it at the moment. Not sure if it applies to the newer trucks.
As always there is the raise/lower the hitch and kingpin while maintaining the 6-7" bed rail clearance. If that doesn't work, you have to raise the trailer.
In the end, I solved my issues by getting a Grand Design Solitude.
My Open Range road pretty nose high and the F350 FX4 is really high in the rear. There is a 2" block between the axle and springs adding to the height. Options were to check if the trailer axles were above or below the springs. If above, have them flipped to below. Another option was lci1.com/correct-track-ii
The more expensive option was to have the truck lowered. Which involved removing that 2" block and changing the bearing in the drive shaft to insure proper alignment etc. There was a TSB about this, just can't find it at the moment. Not sure if it applies to the newer trucks.
As always there is the raise/lower the hitch and kingpin while maintaining the 6-7" bed rail clearance. If that doesn't work, you have to raise the trailer.
In the end, I solved my issues by getting a Grand Design Solitude.
#9
I keep a 3 gal compressor with me. As stated above, truck stops, Walmart/Sam's, service stations and tire stores are good choices on the road.
My Open Range road pretty nose high and the F350 FX4 is really high in the rear. There is a 2" block between the axle and springs adding to the height. Options were to check if the trailer axles were above or below the springs. If above, have them flipped to below. Another option was lci1.com/correct-track-ii
The more expensive option was to have the truck lowered. Which involved removing that 2" block and changing the bearing in the drive shaft to insure proper alignment etc. There was a TSB about this, just can't find it at the moment. Not sure if it applies to the newer trucks.
As always there is the raise/lower the hitch and kingpin while maintaining the 6-7" bed rail clearance. If that doesn't work, you have to raise the trailer.
In the end, I solved my issues by getting a Grand Design Solitude.
My Open Range road pretty nose high and the F350 FX4 is really high in the rear. There is a 2" block between the axle and springs adding to the height. Options were to check if the trailer axles were above or below the springs. If above, have them flipped to below. Another option was lci1.com/correct-track-ii
The more expensive option was to have the truck lowered. Which involved removing that 2" block and changing the bearing in the drive shaft to insure proper alignment etc. There was a TSB about this, just can't find it at the moment. Not sure if it applies to the newer trucks.
As always there is the raise/lower the hitch and kingpin while maintaining the 6-7" bed rail clearance. If that doesn't work, you have to raise the trailer.
In the end, I solved my issues by getting a Grand Design Solitude.
#10
If you want a 12v style one that you can keep with you for quick fill ups here is an option.
12Volt 150 PSI Compact Air Compressor
A couple review on youtube
I carry a craftsman compressor with me on the 5th wheel but will be putting it storage now, the 12 volt will do what air topping off that's needed.
12Volt 150 PSI Compact Air Compressor
A couple review on youtube
I carry a craftsman compressor with me on the 5th wheel but will be putting it storage now, the 12 volt will do what air topping off that's needed.
#11
I have a compressor at home that I use to air everything up.
I keep my rears at 80 anyway, 70 in front.
Don't forget the trailer. I most likely has e rated ST tires. Air them up to 80 and don't go over 65 mph (rated speed for ST tires)
Lower your airbags to about 30 psi I think would help.
I keep my rears at 80 anyway, 70 in front.
Don't forget the trailer. I most likely has e rated ST tires. Air them up to 80 and don't go over 65 mph (rated speed for ST tires)
Lower your airbags to about 30 psi I think would help.
Zero sway -- ever. No difference in braking and steering (except for the need to use the trailer brakes of course) -- but at least on the rental trailer they were strong!
Great experience. I wish I could go do it again tomorrow -- but sadly not for a few weeks.
To that end, I have to give a thumbs up to the Reese Elite 25k. Very little noise, zero chucking due to uneven road surfaces -- in fact the only chucking I felt was from me learning how high to gain the trailer brakes and learning the right touch and timing.
Actually I was amazed... I'd feel the truck hit a little crack or dip in the road and think, "here it comes from the trailer" but it just never came.
I'm a fifth wheel convert.
Interestingly, I've been doing some math. My stock F250 allows 6,340# on the rear axle (and as noted that's a de-rate based on the tire pressure). But even still, if I accept that number for arugment's sake...
Yesterday I had 5,820# on the rear axle. So the margin is 520# on the blue sticker.
The trailer has a GVWR of 14,500. Yesterday it weighed 12,280#. If I were to load it with 2,220# of gear I'd be at max weight. Taking 20% of that and putting it on the pin means my rear axle would increase 444# so even if the pin weight went up by 520# I'd still be at rear axle limit -- in my F250 from the factory that did not consider my air bags. Adding what we know (that by airing up the tires to 80# the weak link becomes my wheels at 7,000#) and I'm well under the real limits. Like > 700# under. I don't see me putting near that much weight in it, but I have no concerns about the weight of a week of gear and food, and my wife -- at all.
I'm really loving my F250, and while it would be nice to have a higher sticker, I'm feeling like the F250 was a far smaller "mistake" than I thought originally.
I want to get a lot more experience towing with it before I write my 'not such a mistake after all' post, but the way I feel now, it's more likely than not that I'll write that post!
Thanks for all your help here! And thanks to everyone else!
#12
I was having the same issue with 5er riding nose high so I swapped the 2017 blocks for the 2016s per the post below. Very low cost easy solution done by the dealer that verified that my warranty wouldn't be affected. Pick up about 1.5" to get much closer to level. No ill effects at all so far and didn't have to change the bearing. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-rear-end.html
#13
Man you must be ready to buy by now after all of your research and testing.... most buy a rig knowing nothing.....you will really know damn near everything before you buy!
Let some air out those air bags and let the rear go down a bit and I'll bet you can get it to sit level.... doesn't look like you have much room to lower the 5th wheel hitch or raise the pin box...that 6" clearance is perfect.
Can't wait to see which rig you end up buying...best of luck!! Sweeeet truck BTW!!
Let some air out those air bags and let the rear go down a bit and I'll bet you can get it to sit level.... doesn't look like you have much room to lower the 5th wheel hitch or raise the pin box...that 6" clearance is perfect.
Can't wait to see which rig you end up buying...best of luck!! Sweeeet truck BTW!!
#14
Man you must be ready to buy by now after all of your research and testing.... most buy a rig knowing nothing.....you will really know damn near everything before you buy!
Let some air out those air bags and let the rear go down a bit and I'll bet you can get it to sit level.... doesn't look like you have much room to lower the 5th wheel hitch or raise the pin box...that 6" clearance is perfect.
Can't wait to see which rig you end up buying...best of luck!! Sweeeet truck BTW!!
Let some air out those air bags and let the rear go down a bit and I'll bet you can get it to sit level.... doesn't look like you have much room to lower the 5th wheel hitch or raise the pin box...that 6" clearance is perfect.
Can't wait to see which rig you end up buying...best of luck!! Sweeeet truck BTW!!
I'm really torn at this point. I'm confident I can pull this or even something slightly bigger, but soon I'll be running up against wheel and tire ratings. I could change all that out for not a ton of money, but I'm scratching my head about pulling something that weighs >20,000# with a SRW. And...
I want the biggest, baddest toyhauler I can find -- one that doesn't compromise on the living room and kitchen and still has a great garage, laundry area, 2nd full bath, porch, etc.
But even if I had enough truck to pull it, which I really don't think I do, there's the problem of finding places to camp with it.
So I'm trying to figure out if I just save that for retirement, and buy the one in the picture (it will be for sale soon) or wait, find a way to get into a DRW this year or next, and continue to rent.
Decisions, decisions. But I'm having a ton of fun in the process!
#15
Air them up to 80 and don't go over 65 mph (rated speed for ST tires)
Not condoning driving 75 but it does give you a bit of wiggle room.
S