Camshaft upgrade
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Camshaft upgrade
So looking at upgrading my camshaft to a r&d stage 1 camshaft, my biggest question is this something i can do by myself or would i have to take it to a shop? And if it is something i can do is there a good write up or video on someone replacing it?
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New User
Joined: Dec 2016
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i do most my own work im no where near degree level of intelligence but i would like to say i have above average automotive experience compared to the average joe. Do you know of any good write ups or videos on someone doing it?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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The basic idea is:
1. Remove IP and lines, for access. You also need to remove the IP gear cover, the one thing you try never to remove.
2. remove valve covers, intake manifold and valley pan(probably need a new valley pan)
3. Remove rockers, pushrods, lifter-keepers and lifters(in the valley)
4. Remove all the accessories attached to the water pump, the radiator, and hoses.
5. Remove the front harmonic balancer.
5. Remove the front engine cover. This is the plate that the water pump attaches to. If you remove all the bolts, you can get the front cover out with the water pump still attached to it by the gasket.
5. Disconnect the AC radiator, and lift it up and out of the way(be careful not to damage it)
6. Remove the cam gear from the cam with a puller
7. Remove the cam from the engine, sliding it out the front and around the grill center piece. You may need to modify or remove anything in the way there
8. Pull the fuel pump lobe, retainer ring and I think there's a 3rd pressed-on ring off the old cam.
9. Reinstall those parts on the new cam.
10. Lube up the new cam
11. Reinstall the new cam the way the old one went out. Swear appropriately.
12. Reinstall the cam gear on the cam, slide and reinstall it meshing properly with the crank gear. You need to make sure the dots line up appropriately as specified in your diagram.
13. Reinstall everything you took off in reverse order.
A couple of things I'd also do:
Once you get the new cam on, /before/ reinstalling the front cover, install the rockers, lifters etc. Install the IP gear cover, and IP, and lines, rig up enough of a fuel system to test things.
Obviously, with no water pump or cooling system, you don't want to run the engine more than 30 seconds or so, but it will be enough to tell if the engine is timed right.
You want to make sure your ip-cam timing is right before you put that front cover back on, or it is a real pain to fix.
Once you do that, you'll take the IP back off, reinstall the valley pan and intake manifold, then reinstall.
I would plan on at least a 3-day weekend to do this, preferably have the ability to use a second vehicle to drive to work and leave yourself a few extra evenings just in case.
1. Remove IP and lines, for access. You also need to remove the IP gear cover, the one thing you try never to remove.
2. remove valve covers, intake manifold and valley pan(probably need a new valley pan)
3. Remove rockers, pushrods, lifter-keepers and lifters(in the valley)
4. Remove all the accessories attached to the water pump, the radiator, and hoses.
5. Remove the front harmonic balancer.
5. Remove the front engine cover. This is the plate that the water pump attaches to. If you remove all the bolts, you can get the front cover out with the water pump still attached to it by the gasket.
5. Disconnect the AC radiator, and lift it up and out of the way(be careful not to damage it)
6. Remove the cam gear from the cam with a puller
7. Remove the cam from the engine, sliding it out the front and around the grill center piece. You may need to modify or remove anything in the way there
8. Pull the fuel pump lobe, retainer ring and I think there's a 3rd pressed-on ring off the old cam.
9. Reinstall those parts on the new cam.
10. Lube up the new cam
11. Reinstall the new cam the way the old one went out. Swear appropriately.
12. Reinstall the cam gear on the cam, slide and reinstall it meshing properly with the crank gear. You need to make sure the dots line up appropriately as specified in your diagram.
13. Reinstall everything you took off in reverse order.
A couple of things I'd also do:
Once you get the new cam on, /before/ reinstalling the front cover, install the rockers, lifters etc. Install the IP gear cover, and IP, and lines, rig up enough of a fuel system to test things.
Obviously, with no water pump or cooling system, you don't want to run the engine more than 30 seconds or so, but it will be enough to tell if the engine is timed right.
You want to make sure your ip-cam timing is right before you put that front cover back on, or it is a real pain to fix.
Once you do that, you'll take the IP back off, reinstall the valley pan and intake manifold, then reinstall.
I would plan on at least a 3-day weekend to do this, preferably have the ability to use a second vehicle to drive to work and leave yourself a few extra evenings just in case.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
The basic idea is:
1. Remove IP and lines, for access. You also need to remove the IP gear cover, the one thing you try never to remove.
2. remove valve covers, intake manifold and valley pan(probably need a new valley pan)
3. Remove rockers, pushrods, lifter-keepers and lifters(in the valley)
4. Remove all the accessories attached to the water pump, the radiator, and hoses.
5. Remove the front harmonic balancer.
5. Remove the front engine cover. This is the plate that the water pump attaches to. If you remove all the bolts, you can get the front cover out with the water pump still attached to it by the gasket.
5. Disconnect the AC radiator, and lift it up and out of the way(be careful not to damage it)
6. Remove the cam gear from the cam with a puller
7. Remove the cam from the engine, sliding it out the front and around the grill center piece. You may need to modify or remove anything in the way there
8. Pull the fuel pump lobe, retainer ring and I think there's a 3rd pressed-on ring off the old cam.
9. Reinstall those parts on the new cam.
10. Lube up the new cam
11. Reinstall the new cam the way the old one went out. Swear appropriately.
12. Reinstall the cam gear on the cam, slide and reinstall it meshing properly with the crank gear. You need to make sure the dots line up appropriately as specified in your diagram.
13. Reinstall everything you took off in reverse order.
A couple of things I'd also do:
Once you get the new cam on, /before/ reinstalling the front cover, install the rockers, lifters etc. Install the IP gear cover, and IP, and lines, rig up enough of a fuel system to test things.
Obviously, with no water pump or cooling system, you don't want to run the engine more than 30 seconds or so, but it will be enough to tell if the engine is timed right.
You want to make sure your ip-cam timing is right before you put that front cover back on, or it is a real pain to fix.
Once you do that, you'll take the IP back off, reinstall the valley pan and intake manifold, then reinstall.
I would plan on at least a 3-day weekend to do this, preferably have the ability to use a second vehicle to drive to work and leave yourself a few extra evenings just in case.
1. Remove IP and lines, for access. You also need to remove the IP gear cover, the one thing you try never to remove.
2. remove valve covers, intake manifold and valley pan(probably need a new valley pan)
3. Remove rockers, pushrods, lifter-keepers and lifters(in the valley)
4. Remove all the accessories attached to the water pump, the radiator, and hoses.
5. Remove the front harmonic balancer.
5. Remove the front engine cover. This is the plate that the water pump attaches to. If you remove all the bolts, you can get the front cover out with the water pump still attached to it by the gasket.
5. Disconnect the AC radiator, and lift it up and out of the way(be careful not to damage it)
6. Remove the cam gear from the cam with a puller
7. Remove the cam from the engine, sliding it out the front and around the grill center piece. You may need to modify or remove anything in the way there
8. Pull the fuel pump lobe, retainer ring and I think there's a 3rd pressed-on ring off the old cam.
9. Reinstall those parts on the new cam.
10. Lube up the new cam
11. Reinstall the new cam the way the old one went out. Swear appropriately.
12. Reinstall the cam gear on the cam, slide and reinstall it meshing properly with the crank gear. You need to make sure the dots line up appropriately as specified in your diagram.
13. Reinstall everything you took off in reverse order.
A couple of things I'd also do:
Once you get the new cam on, /before/ reinstalling the front cover, install the rockers, lifters etc. Install the IP gear cover, and IP, and lines, rig up enough of a fuel system to test things.
Obviously, with no water pump or cooling system, you don't want to run the engine more than 30 seconds or so, but it will be enough to tell if the engine is timed right.
You want to make sure your ip-cam timing is right before you put that front cover back on, or it is a real pain to fix.
Once you do that, you'll take the IP back off, reinstall the valley pan and intake manifold, then reinstall.
I would plan on at least a 3-day weekend to do this, preferably have the ability to use a second vehicle to drive to work and leave yourself a few extra evenings just in case.
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