Which Hubs?
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Northeast Ohio USA
Which Hubs?
I'm getting ready to replace Blue Ox's front wheel bearings and figured while things are apart, i might as well replace the front manual locking hubs.
What are some of the FTE community recommendations ?
Warn, Mile Marker, or rebuild the originals ?
I'm currently piecing together a Meyer snow plow set-up and it's probably best to be prophylactic
(i'm sure Chris or Karl will chime in 
) with the front end before pressing it into any kind of "somewhat" severe service.
She won't be plowing parking lots or anything near that size...just driveways.
I picked up some steel plates (the same used in road construction projects to cover sinkholes), in numerous sizes to use in the bed for weight.
The different sizes should allow for decent weight distribution while still allowing the bed to be used for hauling. As always, opinions are appreciated.
What are some of the FTE community recommendations ?
Warn, Mile Marker, or rebuild the originals ?
I'm currently piecing together a Meyer snow plow set-up and it's probably best to be prophylactic
(i'm sure Chris or Karl will chime in ) with the front end before pressing it into any kind of "somewhat" severe service. She won't be plowing parking lots or anything near that size...just driveways.
I picked up some steel plates (the same used in road construction projects to cover sinkholes), in numerous sizes to use in the bed for weight.
The different sizes should allow for decent weight distribution while still allowing the bed to be used for hauling. As always, opinions are appreciated.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,995
Likes: 2,741
From: Virginia
If you have the stock metal hubs, I would keep them. The aftermarket metal hubs are very expensive, the cheaper ones are plastic. If they are in good shape, no reason to change them. Just make sure you don't over do it on the grease, and try not to get a lot of grease in the hubs. In cold weather it gets stiff and they won't work.
I had a Meyer 7.5ft on my 1980 f150, I had to raise the idle speed up so it would lift the plow. It did fine when I did that, I had the stock alternator and a stock sized battery.
I have it on my diesel now, and with the dual batteries and larger alternator, the plow raises up with authority.
I had a Meyer 7.5ft on my 1980 f150, I had to raise the idle speed up so it would lift the plow. It did fine when I did that, I had the stock alternator and a stock sized battery.
I have it on my diesel now, and with the dual batteries and larger alternator, the plow raises up with authority.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 5
From: Northeast Ohio USA
If you have the stock metal hubs, I would keep them. The aftermarket metal hubs are very expensive, the cheaper ones are plastic. If they are in good shape, no reason to change them. Just make sure you don't over do it on the grease, and try not to get a lot of grease in the hubs. In cold weather it gets stiff and they won't work.
I had a Meyer 7.5ft on my 1980 f150, I had to raise the idle speed up so it would lift the plow. It did fine when I did that, I had the stock alternator and a stock sized battery.
I have it on my diesel now, and with the dual batteries and larger alternator, the plow raises up with authority.
I had a Meyer 7.5ft on my 1980 f150, I had to raise the idle speed up so it would lift the plow. It did fine when I did that, I had the stock alternator and a stock sized battery.
I have it on my diesel now, and with the dual batteries and larger alternator, the plow raises up with authority.
MMNC (SS)(Ret)
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 11,606
Likes: 151
From: SE Georgia
I have MM hubs on my D60. Mechanically they work great. Unlock/Lock with authority. Have never frozen despite all the slush/rain/ice and snow
however, the caps fit loosely on the flange. all the allen bolts are tight. maybe I'm missing a seal or something, but to me it seems off.
however, the caps fit loosely on the flange. all the allen bolts are tight. maybe I'm missing a seal or something, but to me it seems off.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I had Superwinch hubs on my D44 HD truck.
A bad U-joint allowed the axle to pull back and destroy the passenger side.
Replaced with Warn premium. ($100 next day from Amazon)
They've all worked fine for me.
A bad U-joint allowed the axle to pull back and destroy the passenger side.
Replaced with Warn premium. ($100 next day from Amazon)
They've all worked fine for me.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,006
Likes: 72
From: Roseville, MN
My truck came to me with MileMarkers. One of them had the same loose cap issue Tylus mentioned.
I replaced them with Warn Standards. Had trouble with one of them popping out of the "free" detent and locking itself when I didn't want it to.
Returned them under warantee and put Warn Premiums on it. Their expensive (at least compared to the other options), but I've never had any trouble with them, including the one that caught the weight of the front end of my Bronco when the tire fell off a rock.
I replaced them with Warn Standards. Had trouble with one of them popping out of the "free" detent and locking itself when I didn't want it to.
Returned them under warantee and put Warn Premiums on it. Their expensive (at least compared to the other options), but I've never had any trouble with them, including the one that caught the weight of the front end of my Bronco when the tire fell off a rock.
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stevemcklin
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Jul 22, 2016 08:49 PM
