starting the build
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
X2 on ck out some rear axle shims to help with the pinion angle and then you might not have to change the lower shock mount?
The rest is looking very good. Thanks for the pics.
The rest is looking very good. Thanks for the pics.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
Pinion angle appears to be right where it needs to be, and even if it were shimmed, I'm thinking it'd still bind at full droop. No sense ripping the shock eyes out of brand new shocks. Welding on new tabs ain't that tough.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
The stockers will be kept as spares. I'm a fan of Warn premiums. I've abused the D44 in the front of my other crawler and never broke a hub....and that includes grenading Ujoints and an axle shaft.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
Update on Ebrake cables...Bronco graveyard carries each side for $18 each (I love cheap parts!)
Since the driver side was long enough, but the passenger side wasn't, I'm just going to use 2 driver side cables. Believe they should connect the same. That way no drop bracket should be needed - can mount using the existing holes in the crossmember. Driver side cable is about 7.5" longer than the pass side cable, in case anyone wants to know the difference.
Driveshafts go to the shop this afternoon for rebuild and to add 2" to each of them. That should get them right back in their stock range of motion.
Then, hopefully to the shop next week for Gears/locker/LSD install. They have a fab shop too where I can get some new shock tabs stuck on.
Then I can get that nice set of new 35" rubber out of my living room and onto the truck...lol
Since the driver side was long enough, but the passenger side wasn't, I'm just going to use 2 driver side cables. Believe they should connect the same. That way no drop bracket should be needed - can mount using the existing holes in the crossmember. Driver side cable is about 7.5" longer than the pass side cable, in case anyone wants to know the difference.
Driveshafts go to the shop this afternoon for rebuild and to add 2" to each of them. That should get them right back in their stock range of motion.
Then, hopefully to the shop next week for Gears/locker/LSD install. They have a fab shop too where I can get some new shock tabs stuck on.
Then I can get that nice set of new 35" rubber out of my living room and onto the truck...lol
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
Truck is out of the shop.
Had them do the following:
Install rear Detroit locker and front Detroit true trac, and 4.10 gears
Install upgraded axle shafts, front and rear.
New Ebrake cables
New shock mounts on the rear axle
So nice to have the truck back.
Still on the to do list:
Making progress! Truck is driving nice with the lift, new gears, etc. and completely rebuilt (and lengthened) drive shafts. Getting those done was expensive, but necessary. Splines in the rear shaft were shot and had a lot of play, giving me vibrations at highway speeds. Those are gone now.
Had them do the following:
Install rear Detroit locker and front Detroit true trac, and 4.10 gears
Install upgraded axle shafts, front and rear.
New Ebrake cables
New shock mounts on the rear axle
So nice to have the truck back.
Still on the to do list:
- Get my new 35s mounted (really needed now....truck is screaming at 65mph...lol)
- Replace speedo and cable
- Install the 1 wire alternator, dual battery kit, and voltmeter
- Full ignition tuneup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) / pull and retune carb one more time (still leaking a little vacuum at the gasket with the new carb)
- Get my Protofab bumpers and get a coat of paint on them. Those are still about 2-3 weeks out I think - being built.
- Install some grab handles and cup holders in the cab
- Patch over the sunroof and install a new headliner
Making progress! Truck is driving nice with the lift, new gears, etc. and completely rebuilt (and lengthened) drive shafts. Getting those done was expensive, but necessary. Splines in the rear shaft were shot and had a lot of play, giving me vibrations at highway speeds. Those are gone now.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
The upper end is a stud type mount, so that wouldn't work.
Not a big deal. Got new tabs welded on that are tucked up out of the way better than the stockers for better clearance.
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 712
Likes: 1
From: Mesa, AZ
Engine ignition tuneup done this last weekend...Plugs, wires, cap, Rotor, and retuned everything, reset timing. Runs pretty good now.
Also replaced the rear axle vent line and put all the springs back on the Ebrake setup.
Turning to the interior, I mounted some additional grab handles and some cupholders. I need to get some pics of those to post up.
Also replaced the rear axle vent line and put all the springs back on the Ebrake setup.
Turning to the interior, I mounted some additional grab handles and some cupholders. I need to get some pics of those to post up.
New User
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 16
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Engine ignition tuneup done this last weekend...Plugs, wires, cap, Rotor, and retuned everything, reset timing. Runs pretty good now.
Also replaced the rear axle vent line and put all the springs back on the Ebrake setup.
Turning to the interior, I mounted some additional grab handles and some cupholders. I need to get some pics of those to post up.
Also replaced the rear axle vent line and put all the springs back on the Ebrake setup.
Turning to the interior, I mounted some additional grab handles and some cupholders. I need to get some pics of those to post up.