Crank no start after work
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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This statement makes it seem unlikely that it is a bad pump. With the install of a new IPR and STILL the .2v during crank (and no-start w/ ICP unplugged), the install questions/issues you mentioned earlier might just be the problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2016
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Bismic, I replaced the IPR under warranty last night. When you say the install questions/issues, do you mean with the hpop seals? I also can't get past the .2 volts ICP. It never climbs past .2 when cranking.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
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I read that you installed the new IPR (that was part of my thought process posted above - even if it wasn't stated too clearly!).
Yes, I am wondering about the HPOP seals.
IMO 0 pressure typically means IPR open, failed STC fitting, bad pump, ball dislodged from an early HPOP, etc. I am doubting that your HPOP failed completely that quickly. I guess it could happen, but it seems unlikely.
Yes, I am wondering about the HPOP seals.
IMO 0 pressure typically means IPR open, failed STC fitting, bad pump, ball dislodged from an early HPOP, etc. I am doubting that your HPOP failed completely that quickly. I guess it could happen, but it seems unlikely.
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Senior User
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The latest - I found my ICP sensor donut gasket under my truck. I know. I installed it, cranked and got hpo pressure of 30 psi, the highest I've seen it yet, on the first crank and 40 psi on the second crank. Now it's slow cranking due to low batteries again! I believe my batteries are officially getting weak.
I have ordered the ICP air fitting because I couldn't find one at napa, oreilly, or any other places. 2 days to get here.
Does anyone else think I may be just now getting the air out of the system? I did unplug the ICP on a 3rd or 4th crank, and my IPR duty cycle goes to a more normal 66% while cranking, but that may just be default as well. ICP voltage never goes above .2 volts at all. I'm probably getting redundant, and am definitely grasping at straws.
I have ordered the ICP air fitting because I couldn't find one at napa, oreilly, or any other places. 2 days to get here.
Does anyone else think I may be just now getting the air out of the system? I did unplug the ICP on a 3rd or 4th crank, and my IPR duty cycle goes to a more normal 66% while cranking, but that may just be default as well. ICP voltage never goes above .2 volts at all. I'm probably getting redundant, and am definitely grasping at straws.
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Senior User
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Well, that's kind of why I was asking. I cranked for 2 days with no seal under the ICP sensor.
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Fleet Owner
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Did it leak onto the valve cover?
The seal to the HPO system is the tapered end and I would think that you had that sealed properly assuming it was screwed in properly.
The seal to the HPO system is the tapered end and I would think that you had that sealed properly assuming it was screwed in properly.
Last edited by bismic; Jan 18, 2017 at 07:15 PM. Reason: poor wording!
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,856
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From: Kaufman TX
Order the test fitting. Give yourself a couple days to rejuvenate while it ships.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 246
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From: Washington
Here's one more free thing to try before you go spend money again.
Take out your oil filter and the stand pipe that it sits on inside the oil filter housing. Now get a half gallon of oil down in the side hole that comes from your lpop to reprime it, it's not the one you just uncovered from under the stand pipe. Using the remote starter wire in one hand and a long screwdriver pressing the drain valve down, crank until you get oil to reach the top of the housing. Holding down the valve still, wait a minute till all the bubbles disappear and repeat. you want that oil to drain into the middle hole leading to the hpop. Reinstall and fire it up.
What you're doing is repriming the lpop and hpop. I had this issue after my rebuild. New agm batteries definitely helped at that point too.
Take out your oil filter and the stand pipe that it sits on inside the oil filter housing. Now get a half gallon of oil down in the side hole that comes from your lpop to reprime it, it's not the one you just uncovered from under the stand pipe. Using the remote starter wire in one hand and a long screwdriver pressing the drain valve down, crank until you get oil to reach the top of the housing. Holding down the valve still, wait a minute till all the bubbles disappear and repeat. you want that oil to drain into the middle hole leading to the hpop. Reinstall and fire it up.
What you're doing is repriming the lpop and hpop. I had this issue after my rebuild. New agm batteries definitely helped at that point too.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2016
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I want the IPR test connector? I've watched a ton of videos and I've always seen them run shop air in through the ICP hole so that's what I ordered.
I will definitely try re-priming the LPOP and HPOP. To me, it seems like it's not primed. It's building low pressure fast, and stopping. It also takes a good 10 seconds for pressure to show on the dummy guage on the dash. If I open the hpop cover again to check the seals, do I need to prime the LPOP again? I did not.
I will definitely try re-priming the LPOP and HPOP. To me, it seems like it's not primed. It's building low pressure fast, and stopping. It also takes a good 10 seconds for pressure to show on the dummy guage on the dash. If I open the hpop cover again to check the seals, do I need to prime the LPOP again? I did not.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
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From: Virginia Beach VA
The LPOP feeds the upper bowl, where the filter resides. That bowl feeds the HPOP. If its full of oil and can fill the bowl pretty fast, then the LPOP is working. Mine doesn't register oil on the gauge until it's running, some just don't push the gauge up right away, so do. You can feed oil to the HPOP by dumping oil into the bowl to help the prime, it will make it prime faster.
If you use an IPR connector, you just don't have to worry about closing the IPR with 12v to get a good air test. The air goes directly to where it needs to go. If you use an ICP connector and don't close the IPR, it dumps air and never puts air to the system.... to test all the o-rings.
Your fine with an ICP fitting, just apply the 12v in short bursts, 15 -30 seconds so you don't burn it up. It's a duty cycle valve and never exposed to full voltage for very long.
You should not have to reprime the LPOP if you take the cover off. If its filling the filter bowl now, it's primed.
If you use an IPR connector, you just don't have to worry about closing the IPR with 12v to get a good air test. The air goes directly to where it needs to go. If you use an ICP connector and don't close the IPR, it dumps air and never puts air to the system.... to test all the o-rings.
Your fine with an ICP fitting, just apply the 12v in short bursts, 15 -30 seconds so you don't burn it up. It's a duty cycle valve and never exposed to full voltage for very long.
You should not have to reprime the LPOP if you take the cover off. If its filling the filter bowl now, it's primed.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,910
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From: NW IA
I'm fairly certain I sealed it up correctly. I'm only second guessing now because of the no start. I did one seal at a time, took one out and replaced it, went to the next one....the only one I got confused about was the small thin o-ring in the kit. I put it under the metal fitting where the STC used to be. The old one was flat, but I thought that was correct. I did not oil the new seal at the top, and that has me worried.
I only ask because I've read some instances where guys had bad luck doing the top injector seal in the engine, it's a trick.
Also, what seal are you talking about that you did not oil, that you are worried about?