Crank no start after work
 

2005 f350 6.0. I had an issue with oil pressure. I put in new dummy plugs, stand pipes, and new seals on the hpop, stc, and cover. It had the updated STC so I left it alone. I also did new injector o-rings. After it's all put back together, I have a crank no start. The oil filter housing is definitely filling with oil, and I have pressure on the dummy gauge after about 5 seconds of cranking. My IPR is at 14.7 koeo, and goes to 85 while cranking. Hpop pressure will not go above 18 while cranking. I have cranked in 15-30 second bursts 10-15 times so far. I know it takes a while to work out air, but I wanted to check and make sure I'm doing the right thing. I've killed the batteries and they are charging now.

Before this all happened, my IPR was acting funny. It would be at 85 koeo, drop to 14.7 and climb while cranking. I did not replace it though I probably should have. Now it seems to be acting right. I don't have an air fitting to check at the ICP hole. I'm using Torque but do have a SGII, but the SGII seems to have problems with this truck and I trust the Torque more.

Long post, I apologize, but the bottom line is how long should I crank on this before I go looking? Like I said, I have oil in the housing, and low pressure. Am I getting worried for no reason??

Sounds like the IPR could be the problem.

I'm thinking it could have been the problem the whole time. However, I replaced it about 8 months ago. It was an advanced auto brand, so it may have just gone bad again. It had good hpop pressure before all this, just the IPR acted bad. Now it's the opposite.

The 05 HPOP is pretty reliable, so hopefully that isn't the issue.

You can put air pressure on it through the ICP sensor opening to do a pressure test. You need to close the IPR when you do.

Since the IPR is essentially a valve, it can get trash on it and that can cause it to allow oil pressure to bleed off (stick open). Another possibility would be an injector o-ring. Even though you did replace them, they could still get nicked in the install.

You really can't tell how the IPR is acting. The reading is a "percent duty cycle" so it is just the commanded position - no way to know what the actual position is.

Well, I put a new ipr in, charged the batteries, and cranked again for 15 seconds about 6-7 times and the batteries are already getting weak again. Still no start. IPR pressure barely got over 20.

Charge the batteries, and crank away 10-10 sec cranks she will fire and run like crap for a awhile

Ok, I just unplugged my icp and cranked, and it hit 1500psi right off the bat. Is that normal? I know the computer sets a default pressure when it's unplugged, but I thought that was around 700-750. I have base oil pressure after a few seconds of cranking. Im pulling the batteries to charge them right now, and will crank more in a few hours. Is that normal for it to show 1500+ psi with the ICP unplugged?

anytime I do oil related work this happens it's part of it, seems like it takes forever and start second guessing my work but it always fires, need to crank to get oil pressure up and it also need to see a certain amount of voltage to fire .Not sure how old your batteries are but just went through this a month ago after I replaced hpo lines. cranked and cranked charged and cranked NOTHING! Bought new batteries and after 2 solid cranks it fired right up.

Batteries are about 6 months old. I've realistically cranked on it maybe 20 times total. 15 times for 10-15 seconds, and a few for 20-30 seconds. It's never got above 22 psi. I've got them charging right now. Trust me, I'm second guessing everything right now. I just hate to burn it up trying to start it. I know oil is flowing because I pulled my filter after cranking and oil poured out of it. I do hope you're right though! I hope she fires up when these get charged up again. This is my first diesel, so I'm used to hearing "don't burn up your starter" but I have read where people have cranked a solid minute or 3 to build pressure. Hopefully I'm overreacting.

ICP is in the valve cover, IPR is under the turbo and needs a special socket to get out. You need to pull the IPR, not the ICP. Yes, 1500 is normal ICP when its unplugged.

When you pulled the ICP, was there oil in the rail? Verify the IPR is plugged in.

I think some of your terminology is off.
IPR should be 14.9% with KOEO and as much as 85% when cranking. If that is the case, it's calling for full on oil.
ICPV should be .18-.25 with KOEO and at least .80v to start.
ICP is commanded, with it unplugged it should be 875-1650. This is not actual, the ICPV is actual.

So, what's ICPV when cranking? Did you remove the cover to the HPOP for the work and if so, did you get the o-rings on correctly and the J-tube o-ring on right?

The IPR is what I replaced, and it reads 14.7 koeo and 83-85 while cranking like I said in the first post. I got backwards on the last couple posts. The ICP is about a month old. I have never tested for voltage at the ICP, but I do have a multimeter, I'm assuming you just probe at the connection for the ICP?

The ICP had no oil in the connector at all. Dry as a bone. Thank you guys for helping me with this.

I'm fairly certain I sealed it up correctly. I'm only second guessing now because of the no start. I did one seal at a time, took one out and replaced it, went to the next one....the only one I got confused about was the small thin o-ring in the kit. I put it under the metal fitting where the STC used to be. The old one was flat, but I thought that was correct. I did not oil the new seal at the top, and that has me worried.

Have you removed the ICP from the valve cover and looked into the hole? Any oil there?
You can probe it, I gave the voltages needed or program the gauge your using to see the voltages.

No I did not check the ICP hole for oil. I will do that and check ICP volts as soon as the batteries charge and report back. Thank you again