When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's a 2007 F250 Lariat Crew Cab. Engine has 250,000 + on it. I believe Long Block is the best course of action. I bought the truck knowing #8 was low/no compression. It ran, but rough. I know that the Long Block is around $5000.00. What I don't know is what do I need to finish out the accessories. Such as gasket kits and other things. I spent all day reading Anthony's (run6.0run) 2012 thread. Great read. Pictures below.
How deep is the score in the cylinder wall?.If it's not too deep or just a small scaring you might get away with a hone job and new piston and ring. Bearings are a given. Head can be saved if it's not cracked. Looks like a glow plug tip went south.
Randy, I would love to find somebody that did this and get a list of parts/"O" rings ect. that they needed to finish. Lifters come with the Long Block. As far as the cam stock is fine with me.
Check out some of Anthony's videos too. He is really getting good witn these engines. He likes to go .020 over I think because the .020 pistons are the easiest to get.
Not sure you will spend 5k if you did it yourself but you may spend half that. And don't forget all the tools you will need like the front and rear seal installer. I think Fredom Racing had the best price on those.
Also I wouldn't remove that ballencer the "don't mess with me" ballencer.
CPB1, don't the front and rear seals and the balancer come on a Long Block or not. All this is what I'm trying to find out. Thanks
Gather up your questions and email or call Asheville Engine. I'm with Randy if you want it done. If you're doing it all yourself it's going to take a lot of research including finding a reputable machine shop that knows the 6.0 & backs their work. As far as I know Asheville does both. If it was me I'd pick them over a Motorcraft engine because of their (Motorcraft) heads new in the box aren't even flat.
I have done a lot of research on Asheville and very few (almost none) complaints. What few there were they went sideways to Sunday to resolve them. If I decide to go that way they are it. Just looking at options. Thanks 87
CPB1, don't the front and rear seals and the balancer come on a Long Block or not. All this is what I'm trying to find out. Thanks
Oh yea I think they would. I would call them and find out just to be on the safe side. Honestly, to me 5k is really not that bad but if you rebuid it yourself you could save yourself some $$. Then you would have to deal with a machine shop, get all the tools and parts ect.
I baught an Asheville Engines long block, 20 over with a stage 2 cam about a year ago. The guys at AE told me that the 20 over would give me better fuel economy approx. 2 mph and I would have to agree. It runs super good I can't wait to drive it every day. The long block is shipped w/ no valve covers, no oil pan, no front or rear cover. They now have fire-ring heads available.
Great customer service (not that much interchange was required), you call and you speak with the owner or the son.
I don't realy know since I had a shop do the install. I do know that they send the unused portion of the engine gasket set. So I assume that if the "gasket/O ring kit" is part of the engine gasket set then it would be shipped along with the LB.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.